chainsaw sharpener

[southsoundtree]

A grinder is useful onsite when cutting dirty wood. Mostly, I have sharpen. Sometimes a grinder, any grinder is good to take the work-hardened edge of, even a cheapo $30-40 HF. Saves expensive files, and easier on wrists.


Thought I had a picture of a huge maple stump I did and cut for figured, spalted wood. Lot of grinding. Mostly sand for soil.


A customer gave me a HF cheapo 12 years ago.
Again, I mostly hand sharpen, having learned to file in the Sierra Backcountry.

 

[New2trees]

Just to add to the thread, being new I am able to file a chain but it is never as sharp out of the box as a new chain. However I also picked up one of the HF cheapo sharpener and love it. As far as excess material removal, once the teeth have been set to the angle of the grinder after the first sharpening (the wheel sets a different profile than a file) follow ups on non damaged chain rarely require more than a touch on each tooth and IMHO the end product is as sharp as an out of the box Stihl so I am more than happy with that for 29 bucks.

 

[RopeShield]

I start using a flat file to cut back a rocked out chain and then round file.
I do like chestnut tool with carbide, it works well and is aggressive but use it now alternating between flat file, battery angle grinder hand-held or the chestnut just cause I like variety and between the different systems there isn't much a difference.
When I know I will be rocking it out the hand held angle grinder is my go to. YOu can cna go from rockd to sharp enough to finish cutting the fencing or whatever is in the tree..

 

[Merle Nelson]

Great tip when I know I just ruined the chain and I still have more steel or dirt/rock to cut through. I will test it and remember it for that odd - totally frustrating - occasion.

 

[badalley]

I have used XtremepowerUS 85W Mini Electric Chainsaw Grinder Sharpener which works great for me. You can search for the sharpener that suits your needs at https://www.2kreviews.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/ .