Center of Balance with Spider Legs

[boreality]

Every situation may require a different notch. You need to know how to make a piece do what you want it to. Start with learning about leaving adequate hinge wood with a wide notch and go from there. Then again no hinge may be the ticket and you want a split to hold it. The most important thing through here I'd say is take smaller pieces.

 

[chris_girard]

I would agree with what boreality says, that every situation requires the use of the proper notch.

Remember when I mentioned about the leads of your blocks? If your block is located directly above where you’re cutting and you’re afraid that you are going to get whacked when the piece leaves the cut, you can use the step cut to create a shelf for the wood to rest on. Make your undercut first, closest to you, and your second (top cut) further out from you. Don’t worry about the chainsaw getting caught in the kerf, because the limb is being supported with a tip-tie and a butt-tie.

Now, lets say that your block is off to one side or the other from where you’re cutting. In this case, you may be able to cut a nice side-notch and make a backcut to steer the limb in that direction. Again, you can use a stepped backcut to help create a small shelf and better hold the butt end in place.

Like Brion Toss likes to say, “The number one rule of Rigging is Fairleads….and there is no number two”.

 

[Treezybreez]

I agree the type of cut does depend on the specific situation at hand and I do understand that the load will travel beneath the RP. Having the RP directly overhead is great if the RP isn't hanging over the house. I wanted the pieces to swing clear of the roof so a tag line would not have to be used.

With this particular tree I did move the RP a little higher before piecing out the top. However the pieces I took had to be much smaller because the RP was not as strong. It took my brother and I a day and a half to finish the job.

Next time I have a tree like this I will try the double RP technique you mentioned.

 

[theXman]

Hey, welcome.

I'm not reading the other posts. (maybe another day)

I looked at your picture and this is my immediate reaction.

wow, you need more butt weight if you tryig to balance that, and I know it's hard as a climber, but if you can't see that from the picture, I hope you can see that soon.

here is about the proper butt weight to balance.

picture:

But, at that angle, dangerous!!! That butt is going to come at the climber like a an army trying to break down a castle wall with a large log!

holy crap!


The upper diameters look large in that tree, like where u are tied in.

why not have a higher rigging point, tip tie and crank a third of that limb up at a time?

I almost NEVER spider leg limbs in rigging with a lowering device. crank them up, or let them hinge down.

spider legs are best for crane picks, imo.

wish i had time to read everyone elses.

 

[Tony]

X2 on X's Post. (like the poetic symmetry there!? Totally intentional!!)

Also, seems as if a redirect would have helped spread the forces, clear the roof line and lessen the chance of swing into the climber.

Tony

 

[Treezybreez]

Hey Xman, I had the same thought you had after reviewing the pictures. I should have cut a little further down the branch in order to balance it properly. To me it is kind of like reviewing a football play.

Tip tying only would have sent the butt end into the roof. However the idea Chris had would have kept the butt end from dropping to far.

I love the way white oak hinges. The branch swung clear of the roof before the hinge broke off. I used a long notch cut to make sure of that.

Here is another picture of the branch below the big one being balanced.