Butterfly Bridge

L

Leif

I just replaced my BII bridge w/ captive-eye carbiners. Now the shackles are free to spin around. Is there such thing as side loading a shackle? Does anyone see a problem/danger with this set up? /forum/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Shackles are used when there is a possibility of loading off of the main axis.

I'm confused about your setup. Can you give a picture or more description?

The two BFII bridges are too short and too long. To solve the problem I used a piece of 10.5 mm rope threaded through the shackles. I tied barrel knots on the outside of the shackles. This gives my floating ring as much travel as possible. I can fine tune the length of the bridge too.
 
Ah the old too long or too short problem...i am well versed in that. Tom..could you show those barrel knots you used and the setup...maybe some pics....Thanks
 
Wait a minute... you have 2 carabiner AND rope to make up your bridge? It must be about 2 feet long? Mine is about 8" (made of spliced rope, of course) and that's about right.

love
nick
 
Maybe he just used the 'biners without rope? WHen I put a bridge on my Master II I just used rope and clip my Omega Jake 'biners directly to the bridge- A don't really see the point of the Aluminium ring on the Bfly II. A D on a nylon strap may offer certain advntages regarding ease of clipping in but the ring looks useless-to a guy whao has never tried it.
 
Nick,
Would you recommend using two rings on the bridge or just the one?
I'm thinking two just cause I'm used to having each side of my line separated, but I'm always trying to streamline my harness so...
Thanks.
 
Like Nick says, the ring allows you to keep your kit in phase. With one ring for my climbing hitch the other biner tucks nicely into the backside. Much more compact. You could also use a shackle for the floating ring.
 
I like the ring but i think it is a bit too small in diameter so I snagged an old cambium saver from work that was too worn to use and i cut the two rings ot of the ends...The big ring would do nicely more space but the rings i got are steel and heavy the aluminum ones would be better.
 
Cagey?

Is that bad?

Isnt the ring stronger and more secure than a shackle?

Notice the tail of rope exiting the P is also secured to the harness so if the P were to fail both ends of the bridge are still attached
 
That looks slick tophopper. I like the adjustability....stem removal short....pruning longer. Also waell thought out w/the p end secured.
 
Cagey is way-good...crafty, sly, creative...

I'm not concerned about the strength difference between the AL ring and a SS shackle. Are you concernec about the screw loosening no the shackle? Wiha a good bit of beef on the allen wrench it should be secure. Locktite is advised.
 
I have used one of those shackels on a lanyard for a couple of years.never had any movement when checking with a wrench periodically.
 
Not really concerned, I just think removing the ring and replacing with a shackle is kinda redundant. I could attach the shackle Ive modded onto the P directly to the saddle(actaully I did) but then the P doesnt line up right when under load. My preference woulkd be to feed the rope thru the ring on the left (like your barrel knot setup), then run it thru the P for adjustment, but I tried that too and it dont work, the ring puts pressure on the P just right and it slips. I toyed around pretty thoroughly with it, it seems to function best as pictured.
Time will tell tho

For over a year I used the same set up with a ropeman for an adjuster, but this set up meets all min ratings, whereas the ropeman did not.
 
I removed the bridge entirely. The eyes of the 'biners are now within the shackles. Maybe think of a more traditional saddle design. If ya'll still think a picture would help, I'll see if I can get one on here. I don't want to use anything thats unsound. Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom