Bugg Base

cbugg

cbugg

Location
Madison WI
Here is a new base anchor set up. stitching courtesy of WesSpur Tree. pretend the black and yellow Tachyon rope is an access line (HTP) I needed 2 different color ropes for the picture to make sense. There is anther stich below the lower carabiner to make it all captive. and the carabiners fit through the large steel ring so you can leave them on.
 

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Hey Colin,
I posted this on your Facebook wall
Nice Colin! Any testing data on that stitch configuration? I'm wondering what the potential is for the lower carabiner to be side loaded in the case of the cinch blowing. Pretty minimal chance of the Cinch failing, but if you are going to back it up, then you should configure the back up in such a way that it does safely and effectively back up the system. Making that eye a tight eye would do the trick. Also there is potential for a fairly significant shock load in the case of the Cinch failing as it is set-up. The slack would be my concern. What about adding a prussik above the Cinch that was connected to another eye stitched in the sling above the lower carabiner. Tie the prussik, clip it to the eye, slide it up nice and tight. Just thinking out loud. I'm liking the beginnings with what you've come up with.
 
Here it is with less slack in the system. you are right about that configuration. the carabiner is taped up so it wont droop as well. I think in the next generation the lower carabiner will be a captive eye to further reduce side loading. I dont want to put a prussic in the system because I feel it would interfere with the Cinch in a rescue (too much friction). the stitching mid eye has been tested by the ART guys for there snake anchor (part of my influence) but I should break some myself to check it out.
 

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My concern with using rappel/belay tools for base anchors is that most of the ones that climbers choose aren't rated for two-person loads. When I've worked through planning the belay/rescue part I've always considered that there is a chance that a rescue climber might have to go up to the victim. In that case there is a chance that both climbers could be on the victim's rope and anchor system. Besides the additional static load there are the dynamic loads that are going to be generated in any climbing. These loads are very likely to exceed the rating for the belay/anchor device.

Go to Gary Storrick's site and research the ratings for belay devices.

This is a choking anchor system that can be used with either end. Nick Arraya and I designed the pieces in the fall of '05 and Nick spliced them. The lock-off/mule is a slipped half hitch with a half hitch over the bite. It's quick to untie with one hand and many non-rope people have been able to figure out how to do a lower/belay within a very short time.
 

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I will check out Gary's site for sure Tom thanks. I remember doing a dynamometer test at an arbor canada areal rescue course where I footlocked up a tree and bounced heavy (I weigh 135lb) on the line then while I was hanging on the line a 250ish pound person footlocked up the same line under me. The peek load was when I was bouncing on the line not when there were 2 of us on the rope. possibly me on my prussic dampening the force?

I am obviously grateful for the feedback Tom and and posted this to look for improvements, but I will do more research and keep working on it. I think all the bigger companies getting stitching machines is making for some interesting new rope tool possibilites/configurations and this is the first thing I could come up with
 
I have been looking at the Petzl site and from what I understand from the site I could replace the cinch in my pic with a Petzl rig and be able to handle 2 person loads.
 
Great info!

YOu're right...sewing rope does open up some good possibilities.

What do you think about using a ring with a larger material diameter...not exterior size? It would give the rope bend a bit larger radius.
 
Good stuff Colin,
I have been through that same testing. Tom, do you add a back up above the rack? If the belayer were to drop the line would'nt the rescuers hit the deck?
 
At the time I used the rack I didn't. Racks have a lot of friction but not quite enough to use without a backup/brake built into the system.

That pic was taken in '05. During my SRT evolution I changed the parameters for performance. One was to always have a belay system that passes the 'whistle-test'. I came across the WT when I was reading about rope rescue. During a test the proctor would blow a whistle and all of the rescuers had to let go. If the victim or the rigging moves more than a certain amount the team fails.

A rack with more bars might have enough friction to hold the victim and potential rescue climber without holding on...but I'm not sure because of the variety of racks and bars.
 
I used to back my Petzl Rig up with a alpine butter fly just like you have pictured. It was brought to my attention though if your belay device was to slip at all and the alpine butterfly gets loaded, how are you able to undo it to lower someone.

I think its important to use a back up that can be released under load. I think a good one is a "munter mule" with an overhand back up. Much like this back up for the munter. (might have the name wrong but the back up is what i'm after)

knot_munter_mule_combinatio.gif
 
@Tom. I like the Idea of a better bend radius there. using that 10mm line is giving it a better bend than if it was 13mm but that is a point for improvement.

@Derrick. I was thinking about those corner traps also because I want to put DMM Shadow biners in due to their small overall size and that they slip through the steel ring nicely. I have also contacted Dave from wesspur to see if he can pre install some of the shrink tubing on the lower biner and capture it in with the rope to do what I have done with the upper electrical tape in my 2nd pick in a slicker more durable manor. otherwise, I'll just throwline whip it in to place.

In terms of the alpine butterfly backup I feel that if rope is creeping through a belay device it is not compatible and I dont want to use it. Kevin was talking in a thread about not having any question marks or maybes in his system which I liked. I feel like a creeping rope in a belay device is just that. Im open to re thinking it though if you think that may be nieve of me.

Loving all the feedback. The internet is awesome
 
also, can the mule (tied on top of the rig) be considered a life support knot if the rig were to fail? The way I understand the rules is that if the mechanical device were to fail, there needs to be a back up that is life support.
 
[ QUOTE ]
...the rules is that if the mechanical device were to fail, there needs to be a back up that is life support.

[/ QUOTE ]

The logic of 'just' mandating backups for mechanical devices doesn't make sense.

And...what part of a climber's kit isn't life support? Where do we stop backing up backups?
 
toche'

for me the backup has come up in masters climbs by judges and I wanted a system that was very obviously and throughly a backed up mechanical device, while still being easy and efficient to install so I will use it at work as well. Im not saying the industry should be dictated by climbing comps, just stating some of my thoughts behind this specific design
 
I like the Idea of a better bend radius there. using that 10mm line is giving it a better bend than if it was 13mm but that is a point for improvement.

Have them stitch two of the rings in
 
I have not found an aluminum ring big enough to fit the carabiners through. I would like to keep that feature due to it being quick and easy for set up and i like the idea of dedicated carabiners in the system.

I was trying to double the rope at the point where it went through the ring but the way the stitching works out it seems to stress the rope a bit and it is only stronger on the poor bend radius, not a better bend radius.

The jangle of 2 rings may be annoying, so I may try to whip them together with throwline or wrap them in a bike tube. or just stitch the loop they area in tight on the rings so the system stays tidy.
 
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