About that "25%" : yes, the YouTube shows "25% capacity", mistakenly.
It happens, though, that the recommended WLLimit of 8,400# amounts
to 25% of the break, whereas it had been 20% of new tensile.
(42,000 => 33,000). With a little *spin*, this can be a correct video!
The break was shown nicely, IMO -- a burst of some fibres right at the
entry into the Clove Hitch, where the compression on them was great
(well, it isn't so easy to trace the fibre clump back into position at the
crossing part, but that's my surmise from doing so with other breaks).
I'm guessing that had that been a Prusik hitch (say; or a Rolling Hitch
backwards -- i.e., double turn first, HHitch finish (w/back-up)), I think
that there'd be less force transmitted to this crossing part, and so the
strength would be greater, a little. (Along the lines of what Norm was
thinking in suggesting the extra wrap, though --as he caught-- that
wasn't right for the particular situation he advanced it.)
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We've done hundreds of break tests in wire, Nylon, Dacron, and assorted high-modulus fibers. And the techies at all the major rope companies have done thousands more. I have yet to see any type of knot -- hitch, loop, bend, anything -- that will reach much over 30% in HM rope, and they almost invariably will slip at as low as 10% unless stoppered or otherwise backed up.
[/ QUOTE ]
... hundreds of break tests / thousands more ...
Where can well-documented reports of all this testing be found,
for review & understanding of methods & results?
Frankly, I've not seen much imagination when it comes to tested knots.
E.g., there are two published sets of data in which the Fig.8 eyeknot
was tested both tied "re-woven" and "in the bight" -- who would've
thought that the knot cared; or if there was to be some difference,
where was the explanation of that? (The results were as expected:
essentially equal. [CMC Rope Rescue Manual; Dave Richards] )
It's really hard to establish a scientific program of understanding
knots when the data --and the methods of its determination--
are kept behind closed doors. (I have heard that Samson i.p. is
notorious re this.)
There are some reasonable ways to try to bolster the Bowline's shown
weaknesses in strength & slippage -- that of an additional tuck of the
end forming a 2nd
collar and putting at least one more diameter
of material in the centrally nipped area; one simple repetition of this
structure gets you 4 diameters.
Beyond this are other knots, such as so-called Fig.9 eyeknot, in both
its common asymmetric form, and in an unknown(?) symmetric one.
Before giving up on knots, one needs to better consider them.
I've seen no evidence that those making the ropes do a good job of
this -- rather, often the opposite.
*kN*