blocking down a spar?

Hey treefrog. I was wondering that , you would go for the ID instead of the GG? I read other posts and it seems people like the ID.
 
Not nihilists!

Hey, Easy, "They are NOT nihilists, they are cowards!" Then Walter hits one in the face with a bowling ball.
applaudit.gif
 
Re: Not nihilists!

Matty D,

That is a good question. I just picked up the Gri Gri (cheaper) when switching from Poision Ivy (used the ID) to Velocity. I like to size and for a experienced climber I think that it is a great device. But if I were training guys or for a piece of mind I feel that the ID's safeties is worth the extra size plus I like the fact that you do not have to disconnect the device to reposition your line.

I guess that the ID would be my first choice but line size will probably dictate the decision if you like sizes over 11mm.
 
Re: Not nihilists!

[ QUOTE ]
Hey, Easy, "They are NOT nihilists, they are cowards!" Then Walter hits one in the face with a bowling ball.
applaudit.gif


[/ QUOTE ]


I stand corrected, and I should go watch the movie again. After all, it is the best movie of all time.*







And that's the end of that story.


SZ


*this statement is purely subjective, not based in fact.
 
Yer supposed to back up an 8 ? I wouldn't use an 8 for anything but hitting the ground real quick or holding a limb you cut and are holding in the tree. To move yourself to lower positions on a spar just hold on to the tip line and keep your lanyard loose enough to fall with you and lean back to where your spikes hit the bark at greater angle so they don't dig and drag out. Like the reverse Batman wall walk thing. You have to jerk your hips to get your lanyard to fall every few feet so you can stop anytime and light somthing.
 
[ QUOTE ]
That rug really tied the room together...

Lately I've been using my homemade "Rope Guide" until I buy a real one.

[/ QUOTE ]
Where did you get the pull from or did you make it and if so from what?
Jared
 
[ QUOTE ]
The pulley is from the original Rope Guide. Purchased at M+I/Fresco.

[/ QUOTE ]
I was hoping you could tell me somewhere to purchase one. I would like to make one like that.
Jared
 
Since the Grigri and I'D came up, I'd like your thoughts about this:

First, I'm not a pro climber; I just climb for fun and exercise. Second, I took the liberty of copying this from one of my other thread, "Some concerns regarding RAD using a Shunt...", thinking it may have a wider exposure here.

I use the Petzl I'D more often than the Grigri, I really, really like the I'D's lock-off feature and for the small I'D(10mm - 11.5mm rope diameters), it can be installed and removed from the rope without removing it from the biner thanks to a plastic gate and a slotted hole on the top plate of the I'D. If you use 1/2" rope (I don't, I use no larger than 7/16" Velocity and most often PMI 10mm EzBend), you should use the large I'D and it doesn't have the gated slot.

Anyway, I'd likely settle on using the RAD more if it weren't for one problem - neither the Grigri nor the I'D give me enough friction to descend on, and let me say, IF I use it according to Petzl instructions. You are suppose to open (fully release) the device with the lever and use your control hand on the rope to control descent. That's according to Petzl instructions. But if I do that, my hand gets hot in a hurry. I've tried using a biner as per Petzl instructions, but that doesn't help much. I've even used a Muntner hitch on the biner to increase friction and while that works well, the rope and I'D/Grigri rub each other and the Muntner supposedly twists the rope pretty badly.

I know that some deal with this problem by releasing the pressure on the lever a bit to increase pressure on the rope by the GriGri/I'D, but this is apparently not a method Petzl approves of. If you look at the GriGri and I'D you will see that a rather small 'corner' of the movable cam pinches the rope to grab it. While one can use the lever to increase friction, it is that small corner of the cam that provides the friction which concentrates wear and heat build up to a very small area. Hence, if you rappel a while using the lever to increase friction and it really heats up, when you lock off, that heated corner is applying heat to a concentrated point on the rope.

I'm not sure what kind of wear is generated on the cam by running the rope over the corner of the cam for additional braking.

Anybody have any thoughts about that?
 
One other thing, a great way to backup a F8, or about any other non-locking descender, is to use a Petzl Shunt on the down rope side of the F8. I use this frequently but with a BMS micro rack as the descending device instead of a the F8. The Shunt provides a re-startable hands free lock-off backup for the desending device.

It should be possible to connect both the descender and the Shunt to the saddle TIP, although it may be necessary to have the descender connected via a short extension to gain room for the Shunt below it.

Of course the down side is, the Shunt isn't cheap, about $55 IIRC.
 
I think I've answered this in the 'other' thread Ron.

It is NOT bad pactice to pull the lever gently to find a sweet spot. Any other way won't work, as I think you are finding. The device takes the heat, backed up by the hand (should have a glove).
 

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