big ash leaning heavily towards wires

In BC, if the tree is within the limits of approach for the voltage specific to the line, then a qualified utility arborist must either oversee a qualified apprentice or be the one to perform the work. There is always communication between the power company and the contractor regarding the measures taken to protect the system prior to the work being performed. Generally, a non-reclosure is the measure taken. I believe this is the 'hold-off' to which you refer. In extreme cases, a line will be dropped to completely remove the electrical hazard from the work operation.

If this tree was not within the LOA for the lines in the background, and clearly the tree was rigged in a very secure fashion so as to prevent the loss of control during the fell, then I don't have any criticism other than the chaps.

That said, if it could have fallen and hit the lines or road if !$@$ happened, then measures should have been taken to protect the power system, and the public in the highly unlikely event that the rigging system were to fail. For example, a temporary blockage of the road while the felling cut is made.

Just my .02
 
Learn to put in a face and back cut from either side of the tree. Too much time spent at the stump climbing around. Not one to work under the lean on a tree. Even in the woods I will stay on the "lightest" side of the tree.
 
Bingo you definitely hit the nail on the head dylan as to the refresher I needed. Our LOA and protocol is pretty similar to yours in BC. You guys just have those funny 500kv transmission towers that sit on what we would put our 115kv... But then again I'm just assuming those are 500kv because each circuit is in a bundle of 4... Cheers.
 
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Learn to put in a face and back cut from either side of the tree. Too much time spent at the stump climbing around. Not one to work under the lean on a tree. Even in the woods I will stay on the "lightest" side of the tree.

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I prefer to cut my notches from the other side, as I assume most righties do. I chose to cut that notch from my left because the ground was flat, giving me a more stable position.

Please don't judge an arb by a logger's standards. There were a lot of man hours going in that job and only one falling cut, which took 2 minutes. A logger is going to fall a lot of trees in the same man hours, making the eficiency of his falling cuts much more of a factor in his productivity..

Double cutting notches and walking around the tree might seem like inefficiency to a logger, but to me, that extra minute just saved me brigning in a crane, bucket or a lot of climbing and rigging.Time well spent.

And in this case the guy lines made safe the short time I was working on the lean side.
 
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Dan - what did you calculate the tree needed in force to be brought back like that? Then, how did you calculate how much force the truck was pulling with? How many times have you stressed the pull rope to near failure before this one? Which leads to, how much force was on that rope?

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Jmcscrap, these are good questions for sure. I'm curious to know, exactly what formulas do you use to figure this stuff out when you pull trees over. I think it would be good for the Arb community at large to have access to the formulas.
Thanks.
 
Some of the things he does i don't agree with but this job actually went most how I would've done it. Minus true blue. He had a backup on the tension line and a pull for the drop. It's about the feel of it, kind of the same feel when you're tying into a sketchy tree.
 
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Dan - what did you calculate the tree needed in force to be brought back like that? Then, how did you calculate how much force the truck was pulling with? How many times have you stressed the pull rope to near failure before this one? Which leads to, how much force was on that rope?

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Jmcscrap, these are good questions for sure. I'm curious to know, exactly what formulas do you use to figure this stuff out when you pull trees over. I think it would be good for the Arb community at large to have access to the formulas.
Thanks.

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I already answered that.... there is only a passing shot on the video, of the set up on the anchor tree, which shows the rigging set up. I was mostly watching the tree for movement as the lines were tensioned.. and it came up fast and easy, no doubt because of all the weight that was taken off..
 
Actually, no, you didn't. You told us what you estimated. I curious about formulas used to calculate the amount of force required to pull the tree over. Jmcscrap certainly made it seem like he has formulas that he uses and I want to know what they are.
 
Banjo - I do not have a formula, I am trying to understand how being able to make the top move in a tree while tensioning with a truck assures you that what you have in place will work. Having the tree backed up with 2 supports is a good idea, something I haven't seen from Dan before. It seems to me there is a better - safer - way to bring the tree over. All in all it worked out, like all the vids we have seen from Dan, but so many of them leave too many variables and sketchy situations that I wonder if this is really "cutting edge" or just plain dumb?
 
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this is tree cutting as simple as as it gets

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At 2.36 in the vid you said you were 'surprised' at the slack that was created in the white rope. You weren't prepared for it because you were experimenting, but you chose to experiment near a busy road with fast moving traffic. This is the sign of an amateur.

There are gaps in your knowledge Dan, these gaps could be the difference between everyone going home safely or having to deal with serious injury or death.

You may have had plenty of ropes on that tree, but your video shows you have a basic lack of understanding of weights, forces and angles of pre-tensioned lines.
 
Grover don't over think the situation he own's two bucket trucks , you have to pull the Ash over or it wouldn't make it on you tube . Don't you understand , tee ball ? everyone gets a hit ! my turn ! Leagalize gay marrige but when you make Make Murphy for trees leagal , I'm protesting . step march , with a back step ....
 
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I wonder if this is really "cutting edge" or just plain dumb?

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Literally LOL ... this is tree cutting 101, as simple as as it gets, and its still beyond you..

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Does the 'angled' face cut give better control, better hingewood, or both?
 
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Does the 'angled' face cut give better control, better hingewood, or both?

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"What's the difference?????"

As long as the question is on the table, I'd like to know why an 'angled' face cut was used.

If there isn't a difference, fair enough. If there is, would you please explain why made that choice.
 
The face cut was made perpendicular to the trunk. We need to define our terms here, because I don't consider that an angled cut.. Mark mentioned that he likes to keep his face cut level with the ground. Norm then asked about an "angled cut". I thought that to mean a cut that was angled relative to the trunk, not angled relative to the ground.. So Mark's cut, would be "angled", in my thinking.

And again, I cut the face perependicular to the trunk in order to keep the fall "in line" with the right angle retainer lines.. making a cut level with the ground would have unneccesarily put more force on the retainer lines..
 
I was askin because the angled face cut doesn't give a precise 'fall'. The spar will follow the angle to the ground, as it did in the video. To get a precise fall, the face and back cut should be level.
On an angled face and back cut, the spar will fall towards the low side of the face cut, as it did in the video.

Also, when making a back cut, I look to see when the 'kerf' is starting to open, instead of looking at the top to see when it starts to move.
 
There was quite a bit of discussion about this at the tree house. The falling path will be different when the notch is "angled".. however that does not mean it will be less "precise".. I was sure glad I didn't have to get too precise with that fall.. It was hard to judge, exactly where the fall was going.. The path was determined by the retainer lines, more than the notch, though they both worked together... The hinge held all the way to the ground..

The large log in the foreground was there to protect a sewer vent cap in the lawn, which was covered by the traffic cone...
 
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Also, when making a back cut, I look to see when the 'kerf' is starting to open, instead of looking at the top to see when it starts to move.

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Fair enough, but slight movement of the top can be discerned before the kerf opening can be. But maybe that is your point- top movement that isn't large enough to register down in the kerf isn't important; when the kerf opens is when significant movement is happening?
 
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Also, when making a back cut, I look to see when the 'kerf' is starting to open, instead of looking at the top to see when it starts to move.

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Fair enough, but slight movement of the top can be discerned before the kerf opening can be. But maybe that is your point- top movement that isn't large enough to register down in the kerf isn't important; when the kerf opens is when significant movement is happening?

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Check out this Hotsaws101 Video. Notice how at 1:20 he puts his axe in the kerf and how he watches the handle. The handle starts to lower at 2:45 when the kerf starts to open a little. It can be a helpful trick to know, sometimes.
 
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