Best way to prevent gaff kick out

H

holden4646

Location
CT
I find myself never using the spikes unless I'm tied in with my climb line. Kicked out awhile ago about 25 feet up and slid all the way down the trunk, I was climbing a 12 inch ash stem when it happened. I was cured from the spikes for awhile lol. I know to practice low and slow and that my first gaffs wernt that sharp. I now have a set of greckos and have had better luck with them. I have kicked out a few other times mainly when I'd lean forward to advance the flip line. Maybe I just need to set up farther away from the tree on more of an angle. Any insight or tips would be much appreciated
 
Love my geckos, and until I got them I would have some spike instability issues myself. Of course when you don't realize there's a right and left set of spurs, you're bound to get some inconsistency. :muyenojado:

I wouldn't sharpen them too much. Kind of like a wood splitting maul, you don't want it too sharp, just clean and at the proper angle. I haven't sharpened mine in a year maybe.

Regardless of how sketchy or how invincible I'm feeling at the time with my spikes, I always use a climbing line, in addition to my lanyard. This is one time that SRT just cant be beat, and you'll feel 100% safer knowing the climbing line isn't slowing you down and you wont care if you kick out.
 
TreeLogic said:
Love my geckos, and until I got them I would have some spike instability issues myself. Of course when you don't realize there's a right and left set of spurs, you're bound to get some inconsistency. :muyenojado:

I wouldn't sharpen them too much. Kind of like a wood splitting maul, you don't want it too sharp, just clean and at the proper angle. I haven't sharpened mine in a year maybe.

Regardless of how sketchy or how invincible I'm feeling at the time with my spikes, I always use a climbing line, in addition to my lanyard. This is one time that SRT just cant be beat, and you'll feel 100% safer knowing the climbing line isn't slowing you down and you wont care if you kick out.
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Ok so do you use srt when ur on a spar chunking down? And if so what do u use to decend.. Never used srt before but it sounds like a really good idea and I want to start doin it
 
holden4646 said:
Ok so do you use srt when ur on a spar chunking down? And if so what do u use to decend.. Never used srt before but it sounds like a really good idea and I want to start doin it
Click to expand...
Chunking a spar down is the perfect time for srt. One of them anyway. You don't have to worry about the DdRT line being looped over a limb or using the trunk wrap friction saver. There are a number of ways you can do it but to keep it simple, you just tie a running bowline with say a 6' tail, descend down until the tail is at hand height, spike in, lanyard in, pull the tail to drop your line to its new location and start cutting. Or, if you have one of those monster cuts that requires you circle the trunk on your spikes, just cut your face while hanging from your climbing line and swing around all you want, then pull your line down for the back cut.

And I highly recommend the Compact Bulldog Bone for your SRT device, should you try it. For the price I don't think you can beat it. You could do the Rope Wrench, which is good to have in your bag, no doubt, but you'll still need a hitch cord and tending tether. Those could kind of kill your savings if you know what I mean.
 
its all about the angle that the gaff is sharpened and the angle that the gaff enters the tree. the more upright the spike (shank), obviously the more body weight is transferred to the point of the spike. the more horizontal the shank the better of a purchase into the wood you will get. It is all varying on the way your gaffs are sharpened and how you step with the gaffs, but as a general rule, you will want your lanyard positioned so you have approximately a forearms length between your hips and the trunk, a little more on larger trees and a little less on really skinny tops. this will ergonomically line your body (primarily your hips and knees) for a good gaff purchase. properly sharpened gaffs will allow you to step up, bearing down with your body weight, and the gaff should bite right away, and when you lift up they should come free. too sharp and they will resist coming out of the wood (and possibly cause you to gaff out on the other foot when you finally yank it free) and too dull will obviously cause you to not get a good purchase in the bark to begin with. when stepping, you will want your knees a few inches away from the tree, shins about 20 degrees away from parallel from the trunk. this will get you both an adequate amount of weight to sink in the gaff while lining the gaff up with the wood fibers to bite in the best.

-Steven
 
TreeLogic said:
I wouldn't sharpen them too much. Kind of like a wood splitting maul, you don't want it too sharp, just clean and at the proper angle. I haven't sharpened mine in a year maybe.
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X2. Probably haven't sharpened mine in 2 years.
You are correct on the leaning back part helping to prevent gaff out. Also, the smaller diameter trees always seem to make it worse. 12" isn't too bad, but when I get into the 10" or 8" stuff, I plan on lots of slipping and sliding.
 
TreeLogic said:
And I highly recommend the Compact Bulldog Bone for your SRT device, should you try it. For the price I don't think you can beat it.
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I don't know if my question is taboo or not, but I have never once seen anyone post how much they've paid for their Bulldog Bone. Maybe it is out of respect for Surveyor and allowing him the ability to set and vary his prices as he sees fit.

I'll understand if you do not wish to state what you know about the pricing on the Bulldog Bone for the reasons mentioned above; but if it is not a secret only to be answered by Surveyor himself, I would much appreciate having some ballpark idea of the cost. I just don't want to waste Surveyor's time if I can avoid it.

Thanks in advance for any response, one way or the other.

Tim
 
TreeLogic said:
Love my geckos, and until I got them I would have some spike instability issues myself. Of course when you don't realize there's a right and left set of spurs, you're bound to get some inconsistency. :muyenojado:

I wouldn't sharpen them too much. Kind of like a wood splitting maul, you don't want it too sharp, just clean and at the proper angle. I haven't sharpened mine in a year maybe.

Regardless of how sketchy or how invincible I'm feeling at the time with my spikes, I always use a climbing line, in addition to my lanyard. This is one time that SRT just cant be beat, and you'll feel 100% safer knowing the climbing line isn't slowing you down and you wont care if you kick out.
Click to expand...
Awesome!! I'll have to try that thanks for the advice
 
TimBr said:
I don't know if my question is taboo or not, but I have never once seen anyone post how much they've paid for their Bulldog Bone. Maybe it is out of respect for Surveyor and allowing him the ability to set and vary his prices as he sees fit.

I'll understand if you do not wish to state what you know about the pricing on the Bulldog Bone for the reasons mentioned above; but if it is not a secret only to be answered by Surveyor himself, I would much appreciate having some ballpark idea of the cost. I just don't want to waste Surveyor's time if I can avoid it.

Thanks in advance for any response, one way or the other.

Tim
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Bought mine about a year ago, it was just under $300 with tax and shipping in the US
 
There are so many different sizes of gaffs, tree bark is different from shiney wet tough stuff to dry flakey tricky pines, best to work out your angle of attack and pace, to get the best option, I always aim for a decent sized gaff, plant them hard and lean at good angle, I rarely do a sprint up a tree.
 
Thanks a lot for that answer, Flex. It is greatly appreciated. I understand that prices can increase over time due to many factors, but this at least gives me a ballpark idea of what I'm looking at.

I haven't been obsessing over the forums as much lately as I used to, so I guess I may have forgotten or never knew that you had the Bulldog Bone. If you don't mind my asking, how do you like it so far, and what rope are you using it with? Sorry if you've already answered this elsewhere.

Tim
 
TimBr said:
Thanks a lot for that answer, Flex. It is greatly appreciated. I understand that prices can increase over time due to many factors, but this at least gives me a ballpark idea of what I'm looking at.

I haven't been obsessing over the forums as much lately as I used to, so I guess I may have forgotten or never knew that you had the Bulldog Bone. If you don't mind my asking, how do you like it so far, and what rope are you using it with? Sorry if you've already answered this elsewhere.

Tim
Click to expand...

Like it. Kmiii 1/2" mostly. I'm currently primarily a commercial fisherman and new father, with aspirations to go full time arborist after 7~ yrs of side jobn'. Honesty I've had less than 20 hrs on mine so far.

Sorry about the derail
 
Until you get the SRT/hybrid device, you could also just wrap the trunk with your lanyard. The Hitch Hiker is another good option, especially for spike climbing, where you never need to remove from the end of your climb line. It's inexpensive and works with every climbing rope diameter.
 
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