- Location
- Southern Dutchess NY
beech is far from soft.... heavier then oak...and strong as hell
Beech TD
- Thread starter Rupe
- Start date
It looks to me like a two foot long piece of 1/2" iron pipe roller would replace a good 70% of the "BlockDriver's" work.
...It only costs $3.00 if you don't have a free piece in your junk pile out back. This is what my guy uses to move those heavy pieces; lift them up with a wrecking bar, place the pipe in there (oriented in the right direction), remove the wrecking bar, and then just a gentle push moves several hundred lbs. This will only work if your cut is clean and flat. Try it some time.
...It only costs $3.00 if you don't have a free piece in your junk pile out back. This is what my guy uses to move those heavy pieces; lift them up with a wrecking bar, place the pipe in there (oriented in the right direction), remove the wrecking bar, and then just a gentle push moves several hundred lbs. This will only work if your cut is clean and flat. Try it some time.
Reg
Branched out member
- Location
- Victoria, BC
[ QUOTE ]
It looks to me like a two foot long piece of 1/2" iron pipe roller would replace a good 70% of the "BlockDriver's" work.
...It only costs $3.00 if you don't have a free piece in your junk pile out back. This is what my guy uses to move those heavy pieces; lift them up with a wrecking bar, place the pipe in there (oriented in the right direction), remove the wrecking bar, and then just a gentle push moves several hundred lbs. This will only work if your cut is clean and flat. Try it some time.
[/ QUOTE ]
Shhhhhhhh Debora, they're a hard enough sell as it is!
It looks to me like a two foot long piece of 1/2" iron pipe roller would replace a good 70% of the "BlockDriver's" work.
...It only costs $3.00 if you don't have a free piece in your junk pile out back. This is what my guy uses to move those heavy pieces; lift them up with a wrecking bar, place the pipe in there (oriented in the right direction), remove the wrecking bar, and then just a gentle push moves several hundred lbs. This will only work if your cut is clean and flat. Try it some time.
[/ QUOTE ]
Shhhhhhhh Debora, they're a hard enough sell as it is!
TC
Participating member
[ QUOTE ]
I never cut beech, but it looks soft.
[/ QUOTE ]
Gerald, European Beech is most definatley not soft, its as hard as steel and the edges of the logs have been known to chop groundworkers hands off like a guillotine if you get them jammed between 2 logs.
Whats the hardest wood on the Pacific coast?
I never cut beech, but it looks soft.
[/ QUOTE ]
Gerald, European Beech is most definatley not soft, its as hard as steel and the edges of the logs have been known to chop groundworkers hands off like a guillotine if you get them jammed between 2 logs.
Whats the hardest wood on the Pacific coast?
- Location
- Haddonfield, nj
beech wood is similar to sycamore imo. Hope it helps
Roger_Barnett
Participating member
- Location
- Seattle, in the PNWet
Kinda correct, deboralee...but all you need is one wooden dowel....ever break a rake handle? Using two is easier as then you don't have to balance the chunk as it's being pushed off.
Sorry, Reg, but it works like a charm.
And, if the section isn't super heavy, you can really push a chunk out quite a ways, if obstacle clearance is an issue.
I first used that trick well over 25 years ago.
Sorry, Reg, but it works like a charm.
And, if the section isn't super heavy, you can really push a chunk out quite a ways, if obstacle clearance is an issue.
I first used that trick well over 25 years ago.
Reg
Branched out member
- Location
- Victoria, BC
[ QUOTE ]
Sorry, Reg, but it works like a charm.
[/ QUOTE ]
Dont be sorry Roger, it makes no odds to me. But this is the second thread in a week, on different forums that you've dug up to make this point?
Best thing is to make a video this week, up the tree not on the floor....a decent size and weight please, the whole sequence. If you're going to deliberately undermine me and the few crumbs that I might take from the business then thats your choice....but at least back it up. FWIW, the technique that I use is only the same as a bar but is obviously geared and does maintain some friction (for control) at the front end, safe and easy methodology, slow, steady and reasuring, Thats me.
Sorry, Reg, but it works like a charm.
[/ QUOTE ]
Dont be sorry Roger, it makes no odds to me. But this is the second thread in a week, on different forums that you've dug up to make this point?
Best thing is to make a video this week, up the tree not on the floor....a decent size and weight please, the whole sequence. If you're going to deliberately undermine me and the few crumbs that I might take from the business then thats your choice....but at least back it up. FWIW, the technique that I use is only the same as a bar but is obviously geared and does maintain some friction (for control) at the front end, safe and easy methodology, slow, steady and reasuring, Thats me.
mdvaden
Participating member
- Location
- Beaverton. Oregon
Surprised I didn't catch this post last winter.
The inside of this beech's wood had some interesting markings.
Decay?
The inside of this beech's wood had some interesting markings.
Decay?
Roger_Barnett
Participating member
- Location
- Seattle, in the PNWet
Rupe, that was a great job....and excellent photo work as well! How long did it take? Surely more than a day?
I am curious, though,(and not to pick at ya) why the heavy 3/4" line for branch lowering? To save switching to a heavier line for the big stuff? We did a 44 inch red oak yesterday with 1/2 inch line. Had to GRCS lots of 6 inch limbs up and clear of a primary high tension line, and from over a house. Job was way underbid (I was helping a friend and ex employee. Hated cutting this awesome tree down, but the Chinese homeowner was too ignorant to realise its value) But we had it on the ground in 5.5 hours. 18 yards of chips, 1.5-2 cords of wood under 12 inches, and maybe 12,000 pounds or more for the craftsmen to mill or make bowls.
We did lift off some 500-1200 pound vertical leads with the 1/2 inch line, but should have switched to my 9/16th double braid spectra core line (19,000 tensile), which is far superior to normal line for lifting....no stretch, and it works on the GRCS drum, whereas 3/4 line can only be wrapped 3 times, so it is hard to get enough friction to lift, or to hold the load when lowering.
A few pics are here....we were able to speedline the last 1/4 of the brush into the neighbor's--it went faster, but I was toasted from the 90 degree heat and a 13 hour day.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rbtree/sets/72157605910738298/
I am curious, though,(and not to pick at ya) why the heavy 3/4" line for branch lowering? To save switching to a heavier line for the big stuff? We did a 44 inch red oak yesterday with 1/2 inch line. Had to GRCS lots of 6 inch limbs up and clear of a primary high tension line, and from over a house. Job was way underbid (I was helping a friend and ex employee. Hated cutting this awesome tree down, but the Chinese homeowner was too ignorant to realise its value) But we had it on the ground in 5.5 hours. 18 yards of chips, 1.5-2 cords of wood under 12 inches, and maybe 12,000 pounds or more for the craftsmen to mill or make bowls.
We did lift off some 500-1200 pound vertical leads with the 1/2 inch line, but should have switched to my 9/16th double braid spectra core line (19,000 tensile), which is far superior to normal line for lifting....no stretch, and it works on the GRCS drum, whereas 3/4 line can only be wrapped 3 times, so it is hard to get enough friction to lift, or to hold the load when lowering.
A few pics are here....we were able to speedline the last 1/4 of the brush into the neighbor's--it went faster, but I was toasted from the 90 degree heat and a 13 hour day.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rbtree/sets/72157605910738298/
Roger_Barnett
Participating member
- Location
- Seattle, in the PNWet
Sorry, Reg. Didn't want to upset ya. Besides, the earlier poster had mentioned the same trick. I just spotted this thread, which I'd missed before. Shouldn't have commented on the BD, I reckon. It is slick the way it works, for sure....thought you said you'd sold all the units.
Doubt that I'd be able to come up with anything, as we have seldom the need for assistance in getting blocks off. It's prolly been 5 years since I've used rollers....The main reason I've done it with rollers is to gain distance to clear an obstacle. I have ripped some chunks a few times, which is very tedious, mainly when the drop zone was too small to handle a full block being dropped.
Doubt that I'd be able to come up with anything, as we have seldom the need for assistance in getting blocks off. It's prolly been 5 years since I've used rollers....The main reason I've done it with rollers is to gain distance to clear an obstacle. I have ripped some chunks a few times, which is very tedious, mainly when the drop zone was too small to handle a full block being dropped.
- Location
- United Kingdom
Roger, thats a 16mm line in the photos not 3/4 inch
(which is 19mm?)
Thats the only lowering rope I've got, it has to do everything. I have been meaning to get a 1/2 inch line for a while but other shiny things keep getting in the way.
We can crank stuff with that line ok, a more static 13 or 14mm would be better I'm sure.
The job took all week (5 days) slow and steady was how I sold it to the client and I only have a six inch chipper so no point going faster than the ground crew can handle.
(which is 19mm?)
Thats the only lowering rope I've got, it has to do everything. I have been meaning to get a 1/2 inch line for a while but other shiny things keep getting in the way.
We can crank stuff with that line ok, a more static 13 or 14mm would be better I'm sure.
The job took all week (5 days) slow and steady was how I sold it to the client and I only have a six inch chipper so no point going faster than the ground crew can handle.
Reg
Branched out member
- Location
- Victoria, BC
SoftBankHawks
Branched out member
- Location
- Japan
Rupe, what 13/14mm static line would you recommend for lifting?
- Location
- United Kingdom
[ QUOTE ]
Rupe, what 13/14mm static line would you recommend for lifting?
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't know, I've not used any yet. I just know that my 16mm samson double braid has quite a bit of stretch that needs to be wound up before it starts lifting. And it doesn't always lock off perfectly either, but I've managed with it thus far.
Rupe, what 13/14mm static line would you recommend for lifting?
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't know, I've not used any yet. I just know that my 16mm samson double braid has quite a bit of stretch that needs to be wound up before it starts lifting. And it doesn't always lock off perfectly either, but I've managed with it thus far.
- Location
- Manchester UK
[ QUOTE ]
PS. I don't think that you needed to cut notches for the rigging ropes. I do beech all the time and have not had them slip out ever. But, that being said, if you felt that you needed it, then I would've made them too!
[/ QUOTE ]
I lost a big piece of beech once while topping down, sheared all the bark off the section. It was an awkward chunk to rope though, had it been a straight cylindrical section I doubt it would have slipped.
PS. I don't think that you needed to cut notches for the rigging ropes. I do beech all the time and have not had them slip out ever. But, that being said, if you felt that you needed it, then I would've made them too!
[/ QUOTE ]
I lost a big piece of beech once while topping down, sheared all the bark off the section. It was an awkward chunk to rope though, had it been a straight cylindrical section I doubt it would have slipped.
SoftBankHawks
Branched out member
- Location
- Japan
using the smaller static line seems like a good idea, i'll let you know if it works out...and if you beat me to it, drop me a line.
- Location
- United Kingdom
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
PS. I don't think that you needed to cut notches for the rigging ropes. I do beech all the time and have not had them slip out ever. But, that being said, if you felt that you needed it, then I would've made them too!
[/ QUOTE ]
I lost a big piece of beech once while topping down, sheared all the bark off the section. It was an awkward chunk to rope though, had it been a straight cylindrical section I doubt it would have slipped.
[/ QUOTE ]
Sorry Mark I missed that post. The whole emphasis of the job was to not damaging the wall below,(cotswold stone walls are expensive) so any precaution was worth taking.
[ QUOTE ]
PS. I don't think that you needed to cut notches for the rigging ropes. I do beech all the time and have not had them slip out ever. But, that being said, if you felt that you needed it, then I would've made them too!
[/ QUOTE ]
I lost a big piece of beech once while topping down, sheared all the bark off the section. It was an awkward chunk to rope though, had it been a straight cylindrical section I doubt it would have slipped.
[/ QUOTE ]
Sorry Mark I missed that post. The whole emphasis of the job was to not damaging the wall below,(cotswold stone walls are expensive) so any precaution was worth taking.
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