Anyone Else Using The Knut Hitch???

Axman or Mark, it looks like the difference between the XT and the VT is in the first wrap? It bends back under the bottom leg and wraps in the oppostite direction? Is that right?

Jim
 
I tried it a long time ago. I went back to the VT because the Knut would lock up too easily. I find this alot with hitches that end with a half hitch. It doesn't happen the same to lighter climbers, and I know from my experience that weight of the climber is key to performance of a hitch. I weigh just under 200lbs (But stretched adequately over 6'3"!).
 
Lazarus2, this may sound strange, but tying the Knut with extra wraps can help. There's another thread that talks about increasing the nuimber of wraps:

http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/showflat.p...0&fpart=all

I'm 5'11" & 165lb. With 4 wraps before the bottom leg is passed through the bight, I had too much grab when using SRT. For DdRT it was fine, though. Now I use five wraps and have had no more problems with too much friction.

I also think that, along with weight, the condition of the climbing line has a lot to do with added friction. My climbing line is very smooth (KM III Max), but I have used some that are fairly rough.


(Off topic - Axman, that XT looks interesting… might have to give it a try, especially since Mark likes it so much.)

Jim
 
200 lb guy here...LOVE the knut, rocks my face off. use 3/8 sta-set and man it never gets to tight and i never have to worry about it setting. short tails are the key. love it.
 
What I mean by locking up is this:

A hitch must be set to prevent a fall after releasing. E.g If you climb hand over hand above the hitch, then pull through the slack and let go - the hitch should grab. Many climbers, especially competitors, deliberately set the hitch alittle loose to self tend and avoid locking. If the hitch is tied snug to avoid failure to grab, it locks when a jump is made ie. pushing out forcefully from the stem with the legs and pulling down hard on the hitch to smoothly pay out rope so as to land gently on the bough.

This is the holy grail of hitch performance; will always bite after slackening, will always release smoothly on descent. No hitch will currently do this during my research.

Until now; I have devised a hitch that will do this better than any other. I call it the 'Eye-Tie', and I'll share it after further testing with different cords.

Give it a couple of weeks.
 
I believe he's aware of the discrepancy. I know I've told him directly in the past that the "Knut-converted-from-Distel" (your second [present] link) has never worked for me. I believe he'd said it did work for him, but that he was aware that it was not "properly" a Knut.

Glen
 
right so the first one is a genuine knut. the second one is the one ive tried and didnt like it, i'll have to try the proper one tomorrow
 
I've flopped the image from Ken's site and placed it next to the one from the PDF file. See attachment.

Glen
 

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I'm tying mine like Mahk. I just sat here and tied the knut and it is quite a bit shorter than the Vt. I like it's compactness. Hoping to give it a try this week. I do like how it stays on the rope by itself as the biner is put in place. It also seems to advance fairly well without a slack tending device.
 
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Glen those sure look like the same knot to me.

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That was rather my unstated point.

Seems I recall Mahk (is he "Mark" from Boston? :) saying something about tying it left-handed in/for that article photo, or something. Obviously, you'd want to counter the direction of the twist in your rope when using 3-strand, but I don't see there being much of a difference between right- and left-hand versions otherwise.

Glen
 
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