Anchor load tests

[islandarb]

H

Bombing out, and coming to a sudden stop, when my glove gets sucked into the bone or runner. I am 200, my peak load must be pretty stunning

Heavy duty.....give that man some steel cable.....

 

[Tuebor]

Gotta disagree with you here Caleb, because of friction and rope angles.

Friction!

Base anchored to an adjacent oak, up over an 8" elm limb. My 170 lbs couldn't bend that twig about the thickness of your finger.

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[Leroy]

That's what I'm talking about Tuebor!

 

[wyatt spruck]

1) what kind of loads occur when a climber swings from various rope angles?

2) In the case of friction savers that can be "choked" onto a stem instead of needing to be draped over a fork/Union:

How much stronger is anchoring to a stem as opposed to a crotch of a similar size?

3) what are the forces generated while rapidly descending? Specifically SRT (I.e. On a rope runner or a bulldog bone or akimbo?)

4) is there any reliable method for testing the strength of an anchor point during preclimb inspection? Bounce testing doesn't count.

5) what kinds of forces are generated while ascending? SRT canopy anchor and basal anchor and doubled rope (DdRT with foot ascender, hip thrusting, and static DRT via footlocking)?

6) (this is more of a gear related idea to possibly improve future friction saver design)

How can friction savers be better designed to absorb shock load in the case of an accidental swing or drop to help protect the anchor point/Union/stem from potential failure? I'm imagining some sort of "airbag" or shock absorbing lanyard integrated that basically catches the force instead of the climber and his TIP. Think teufulbergers chainsaw lanyard design with the built in shock absorbing stitching but for life support.


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