Adjustable friction saver forces

[mattwisconsin]

Hello,
I was going through some gear that I don't use much and trying to put together some useful climbing tools.

I had this adjustable friction saver, but the large ring was on the prussic, which essentially made this friction saver useless because the ring/prussic would get hung up in the tree during retrieval since they would have to be pulled through the crotch.

I am trying to salvage it by throwing on a carabiner and making a small ring prussic. I had some All Gear Friction 8 that I received at the ISA conference, but it is rated at 4100 lb. I know it's good to go for friction hitches because of the two legs, but I'm having an issue trying to figure out the forces if I tie two legs of it to the small ring with scaffold hitches and tying it into a prussic. Would 4100 lb. be ok to climb on in this set up? And does anyone have any input on the configuration of the two knots on the ring? (Picture attached)

I can always order a spliced piece made for this set up, but I would also like to put some of my gear to use that has been sitting in the bag, and I'm in need of a new friction saver.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Shawn]

If it was me, id have no problem with it. Same concept as in a friction hitch, two legs share the load.

 

[TCtreeswinger]

I'm with Shawn plus its overhead 90% of the time so very little chance of any shock loading.

 

[oceans]

Hello,
I was going through some gear that I don't use much and trying to put together some useful climbing tools.

I had this adjustable friction saver, but the large ring was on the prussic, which essentially made this friction saver useless because the ring/prussic would get hung up in the tree during retrieval since they would have to be pulled through the crotch.

I am trying to salvage it by throwing on a carabiner and making a small ring prussic. I had some All Gear Friction 8 that I received at the ISA conference, but it is rated at 4100 lb. I know it's good to go for friction hitches because of the two legs, but I'm having an issue trying to figure out the forces if I tie two legs of it to the small ring with scaffold hitches and tying it into a prussic. Would 4100 lb. be ok to climb on in this set up? And does anyone have any input on the configuration of the two knots on the ring? (Picture attached)

I can always order a spliced piece made for this set up, but I would also like to put some of my gear to use that has been sitting in the bag, and I'm in need of a new friction saver.

Thanks for the help!

I think you're good, but with the length, you could use a large ring on the prusik and the small ring on the tail for retrieval. With that configuration, you could make it a retrievable multi-point anchor which might be nice, and still be fully functional for spar work.

 

[mattwisconsin]

I think you're good, but with the length, you could use a large ring on the prusik and the small ring on the tail for retrieval. With that configuration, you could make it a retrievable multi-point anchor which might be nice, and still be fully functional for spar work.

I really like that idea. So basically like the pictures I attached, if I'm understanding you correctly? (and I will just remove the small ring prussic).

I was actually checking out a similar setup on TreeStuff, so this will work perfect.
Thanks, man.

 

[oceans]

I really like that idea. So basically like the pictures I attached, if I'm understanding you correctly? (and I will just remove the small ring prussic).

I was actually checking out a similar setup on TreeStuff, so this will work perfect.
Thanks, man.

Ding Ding Ding! We have a WINNER!

That's it, man. Sometimes it's difficult to describe things, but you nailed it. That looks like a nice setup, and the middle prusik will allow you to locate and secure the perfect position for load sharing of multiple stems.

Best of luck with that tool!

 

[mattwisconsin]

Ding Ding Ding! We have a WINNER!

That's it, man. Sometimes it's difficult to describe things, but you nailed it. That looks like a nice setup, and the middle prusik will allow you to locate and secure the perfect position for load sharing of multiple stems.

Best of luck with that tool!

Thanks. My only concern with using it in the M setup is getting the prussic through the crotch during retrieval. I had to reclimb a 70 foot spruce because of this (which is what made me stop using this friction saver.

Is there any way to really eliminate this besides sticking to really open crotches and not using it in trees with really rough bark (bur oak, hickory, etc.)

 

[LandonPainter]

I like it. The only thing I can add is that when you use a carabiner in a friction saver it will wear out faster then the rings. I would use a DMM revolver.

 

[mattwisconsin]

I like it. The only thing I can add is that when you use a carabiner in a friction saver it will wear out faster then the rings. I would use a DMM revolver.

Unfortunately the tight splice wont allow a revolver to be used

 

[oceans]

Thanks. My only concern with using it in the M setup is getting the prussic through the crotch during retrieval. I had to reclimb a 70 foot spruce because of this (which is what made me stop using this friction saver.

Is there any way to really eliminate this besides sticking to really open crotches and not using it in trees with really rough bark (bur oak, hickory, etc.)

I don't really know of a way to ensure retrieval. What you might TRY is a floating Large ring between the carabiner and small ring, and just eliminate the cordage part. It won't hold an equalized position, but it might make retrieval easier/more reliable.