Actual tree work for a change

Here's a couple drops for you @rico , showing the value of padding logs... on the first one, the cross log acted as a shim to level out the landing log and keep the big stick from hitting and bouncing or sliding downhill.

the second was a nice throw, big top cleared the tree and srub around 12-15 feet from the cut as I recall.

both used padding logs effectively


 
The skid steer was used on the top wasn’t it?
I think of more interest is rope positioning for getting distance on a top like that.
Too high, loss of pull after a few degrees, and it just pulls the top over = negligible distance
Too low, possible acting against the hinge pulling the bottom out= possible catastrophe.
Get it right and the rope can fly the top the required distance, not far but enough to save a taget.
 
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rico said:
Sorry, but I couldn't get past the first vid with its bark deep undercuts the cribalogalollapalooza. Thanks for the laugh though bro..
Click to expand...
Are you stuck on that 1/3 notch depth guideline? That's for rookies. Is that all you got?

It's surprising that you seem so stuck in the box... hinge has to be strong enough to make the lay.. in the first video short straight sticks with the loader pulling left more than enough hinge. When needed: Center plunge, tapered, sizwheel, fat hinge with the plate cut, deep notch to cut a lean etc.

When not needed sometimes no hinge.. it all depends on the scenario. To say that all notches should be 1/3 depth or 80% is foolish. I've been criticized for cutting notches too shallow and too deep....

If there's side lean to fight then I go nearly 50% deep to allow the hinge to reach max length, side to side across the full diameter. That's not in the books either, but it's still unarguable common sense for anyone that not stuck in the box...
 
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