ABR Unicender Tether
- Thread starter Rickytree
- Start date
bonner1040
Branched out member
- Location
- Boston
That looks like to much. If you seek adjustability I think a small cammed rope grab and a piece of good rope would do better.
.02 But i never used a unicender, not yet atleast.
.02 But i never used a unicender, not yet atleast.
bonner1040
Branched out member
- Location
- Boston
Or this, as sold by Sherrill
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
The ABR is the unit that Rich and I worked out when I started climbing on the Uni years ago. Adding the bronze thimble makes a huge difference. It took us about 8 itterations before it came to look like it does now:
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1697
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1697
Tom could you explain the high ring for a possible foot loop, also the way that it looks to adjust means the bronze thimble would have to slide. I am now using a rope grab with a end knot but the rope grabs are not rated for a shockload. Thinking that the rope would slide in case from a load and get stopped by the knot, is this way safe. Could you also point out the benefits of the ABR tether. Appreciation.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
The chrome dogleash ring is for a redirect so that slack can be pulled down.
I would never use it for attaching the left footloop.
Here's an early version of the tether. Way too complicated.
Since the ABR is a 2:1 adjuster it's easy to take slack by just popping your hips a little. The ring redi makes the adjustment a pull down instead of pull away/up.
My Uni is now mounted directly to my adjustable bridge which is a simpler system.
Save me some typing...what do you want to know about the ABR tether?
I would never use it for attaching the left footloop.
Here's an early version of the tether. Way too complicated.
Since the ABR is a 2:1 adjuster it's easy to take slack by just popping your hips a little. The ring redi makes the adjustment a pull down instead of pull away/up.
My Uni is now mounted directly to my adjustable bridge which is a simpler system.
Save me some typing...what do you want to know about the ABR tether?
Attachments
bonner1040
Branched out member
- Location
- Boston
[ QUOTE ]
My Uni is now mounted directly to my adjustable bridge which is a simpler system.
[/ QUOTE ]
Can I see a picture of this Tom?
My Uni is now mounted directly to my adjustable bridge which is a simpler system.
[/ QUOTE ]
Can I see a picture of this Tom?
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Any questions? Ask away...
The Uni that I have is a prototype that Morgan made for me. It has a roller slack tender built into the lower leg. Morgan told me that this Uni needs to be rigged with cordage in order to keep the Uni canted. I'm trusting him and following directions.
You can see the microcender on the right side of my bridge. It's used to adjust the length of the bridge. I can shorten the bridge bringing the Uni tight and it is in the same position as a lower/chest ascender for using a frog/tree wallker setup. Sometimes I use a shoulder tether but not always. It seems to tend itself nicely.
If I want to use the Uni for the upper during ascent, using a Pantin on my right foot, I slide the bridge out. The length of the bridge is made so that when I hang in a 'neutral' position I can reach up and activate the Uni for descent. Too often I see climbers with tethers to their upper ascender, or ascending loops in the case of DdRT. If they ever need to get a hand up to release the upper they will have to do a footlock to move up...not a safe setup.
When I get to working position I adjust the bridge out to keep it above or below my face. I've had real nightmares about gear smacking my mouth and spitting teeth...they are so real that I wake up!
It takes very little unweighting to let the microscender open and lengthen. Same for shortening. Just a little hip thrust and I can move it out or in.
On my TreeFlex I can slip the tail of the bridge through the aluminum ring. This keeps the tail fair and is easier to adjust. I think some other saddles could be rigged this way too.
The Uni that I have is a prototype that Morgan made for me. It has a roller slack tender built into the lower leg. Morgan told me that this Uni needs to be rigged with cordage in order to keep the Uni canted. I'm trusting him and following directions.
You can see the microcender on the right side of my bridge. It's used to adjust the length of the bridge. I can shorten the bridge bringing the Uni tight and it is in the same position as a lower/chest ascender for using a frog/tree wallker setup. Sometimes I use a shoulder tether but not always. It seems to tend itself nicely.
If I want to use the Uni for the upper during ascent, using a Pantin on my right foot, I slide the bridge out. The length of the bridge is made so that when I hang in a 'neutral' position I can reach up and activate the Uni for descent. Too often I see climbers with tethers to their upper ascender, or ascending loops in the case of DdRT. If they ever need to get a hand up to release the upper they will have to do a footlock to move up...not a safe setup.
When I get to working position I adjust the bridge out to keep it above or below my face. I've had real nightmares about gear smacking my mouth and spitting teeth...they are so real that I wake up!
It takes very little unweighting to let the microscender open and lengthen. Same for shortening. Just a little hip thrust and I can move it out or in.
On my TreeFlex I can slip the tail of the bridge through the aluminum ring. This keeps the tail fair and is easier to adjust. I think some other saddles could be rigged this way too.
Attachments
bonner1040
Branched out member
- Location
- Boston
What If I just quicklink the uni to the swivel on my bridge?
I can use an over the sholder to keep it up during ascent and it will be close for when I am working yes?
I can use an over the sholder to keep it up during ascent and it will be close for when I am working yes?
bonner1040
Branched out member
- Location
- Boston
I have one coming.. hence the interest.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
223...depending on which way you want the clutches of the Uni to face. You can slide your bridge through the slot in the lowest el too.
I tried a swivel and did NOT like it! Maybe my tether and thimble give me enough articulation.
Ricky...sorry, no help. What rope are you climbing on?
I tried a swivel and did NOT like it! Maybe my tether and thimble give me enough articulation.
Ricky...sorry, no help. What rope are you climbing on?
Ive got to say I never use a teather with my uni. Keeping it low you can hand over hand rope while using a pantin in Ddrt for short pitches. It self tends well with an over the shoulder lead, throw in a basic with a short strap and you have a rope walker. swithching over takes seconds my 2 cents
Attachments
Richard Mumford-yoyoman
Been here a while
- Location
- Atlanta GA
[ QUOTE ]
The ABR is the unit that Rich and I worked out ....
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1697
[/ QUOTE ]
Tom, I did not know you help create that tether, I love it but that is not why I'm commenting. Did some searching and this seemed like the best place to make this comment.
I use my Uni with Sterling 11mm mostly, or Poison Ivy double braid. What I notice is with the HTP 11mm, to stop the descent in control mode, (rope over the top)you always have to let some slack go and the first few times it is a little unnerving as anyone using the Uni knows.
If you don't do it quickly you get a little more slide than a person may like, sometimes with the smaller rope, to the point you think, is it going to take? The trick is to trust it and do it quickly but.........sometimes it is hard to do it fast enough.
What I started doing and wonder if others use this but like the stumming technique getting your throw bag to come out of the tree, I use the same idea with my climb line and with the right amount it is fantastic, no slide, no slip, hardly a click, just instant hold.
The ABR is the unit that Rich and I worked out ....
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1697
[/ QUOTE ]
Tom, I did not know you help create that tether, I love it but that is not why I'm commenting. Did some searching and this seemed like the best place to make this comment.
I use my Uni with Sterling 11mm mostly, or Poison Ivy double braid. What I notice is with the HTP 11mm, to stop the descent in control mode, (rope over the top)you always have to let some slack go and the first few times it is a little unnerving as anyone using the Uni knows.
If you don't do it quickly you get a little more slide than a person may like, sometimes with the smaller rope, to the point you think, is it going to take? The trick is to trust it and do it quickly but.........sometimes it is hard to do it fast enough.
What I started doing and wonder if others use this but like the stumming technique getting your throw bag to come out of the tree, I use the same idea with my climb line and with the right amount it is fantastic, no slide, no slip, hardly a click, just instant hold.
Richard Mumford-yoyoman
Been here a while
- Location
- Atlanta GA
Strumming the Unicender to release the descent mode I don't know if others do this but it makes the release so much more pleasant and predictable with zero drop, I wish I would have figured this out earlier.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Yoyo,
That's a nice transition. I might be on rope tomorrow to try it out
That's a nice transition. I might be on rope tomorrow to try it out
oldfart
Participating member
- Location
- Asheville, NC
I know this problem! Fabulous idea, yoyo. Just tried it, works great. Thanks for posting!!
BeesandTrees
New member
- Location
- Longmont, CO
Just started using the UNI, that's what I've been looking for. Thanks, looks smooth.
