- Location
- tulsa oklahoma
Here in Tulsa you can pick them up at one shop for $565 with a 14" bar. Everywhere else except that particular shop sells them for like $585-615. I just got a knew one for $565 two days ago.
192T Question
- Thread starter rangerdanger
- Start date
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I think if you can afford it, you may be better off with the 200T. As you get more experienced with a saw, especially in the tree, you will want the extra power of the 200T.
$0.02
[/ QUOTE ]
I agree. A 192 is acceptable but a 200 is THE saw. No way I'd try buzzing off a big pine top with a 192, it just doesn't have the guts you need to reliably burn through the backcut without bogging.
[/ QUOTE ]
Agreed. They have alot more power, and are also very well balanced. If you get to chunkin wood that is very big a 192 will wear you out. 200's dont talk back, very torquey. Also Husky 338xpt are great. Several of my guys use them and love them. imo
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't agree. I'm not a newbie, but if I was I would want the 192T. RD already has access to the 200Ts which are great saws.
The 192T is dirt cheap and yet hold up well in the field. I use it for a trim saw all the time. It has better balance, the lighter weight is noticeable as are the better manners with the slightly reduced power. I still use it on removals for small trees and notice no extra effort burying the 14" bar. This would be a good first climbing saw. And the easy start totally eliminates any tendency towards drop starting. This is a pretty big thing.
Dave
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I think if you can afford it, you may be better off with the 200T. As you get more experienced with a saw, especially in the tree, you will want the extra power of the 200T.
$0.02
[/ QUOTE ]
I agree. A 192 is acceptable but a 200 is THE saw. No way I'd try buzzing off a big pine top with a 192, it just doesn't have the guts you need to reliably burn through the backcut without bogging.
[/ QUOTE ]
Agreed. They have alot more power, and are also very well balanced. If you get to chunkin wood that is very big a 192 will wear you out. 200's dont talk back, very torquey. Also Husky 338xpt are great. Several of my guys use them and love them. imo
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't agree. I'm not a newbie, but if I was I would want the 192T. RD already has access to the 200Ts which are great saws.
The 192T is dirt cheap and yet hold up well in the field. I use it for a trim saw all the time. It has better balance, the lighter weight is noticeable as are the better manners with the slightly reduced power. I still use it on removals for small trees and notice no extra effort burying the 14" bar. This would be a good first climbing saw. And the easy start totally eliminates any tendency towards drop starting. This is a pretty big thing.
Dave
jim454
Participating member
- Location
- The land of Utopia
Jman,
$580 for the 200t
Ranger,
FWIW I run a 192, I love the saw and I love the price as well. I usually stick with the same saw and when I retire it, I use it as a parts saw. I would like a 200t, I just can't justify it at almost double the price.
My 2 cents.
$580 for the 200t
Ranger,
FWIW I run a 192, I love the saw and I love the price as well. I usually stick with the same saw and when I retire it, I use it as a parts saw. I would like a 200t, I just can't justify it at almost double the price.
My 2 cents.
Roger_Barnett
Participating member
- Location
- Seattle, in the PNWet
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I think if you can afford it, you may be better off with the 200T. As you get more experienced with a saw, especially in the tree, you will want the extra power of the 200T.
$0.02
[/ QUOTE ]
I agree. A 192 is acceptable but a 200 is THE saw. No way I'd try buzzing off a big pine top with a 192, it just doesn't have the guts you need to reliably burn through the backcut without bogging.
[/ QUOTE ]
It shore does if you port that muffler. Then, it'll darn near keep up with a bone stock 200T in wood under 6 inches......
My guys love both my 192's...one fully woods modded, the other just muffler modded.
[ QUOTE ]
I think if you can afford it, you may be better off with the 200T. As you get more experienced with a saw, especially in the tree, you will want the extra power of the 200T.
$0.02
[/ QUOTE ]
I agree. A 192 is acceptable but a 200 is THE saw. No way I'd try buzzing off a big pine top with a 192, it just doesn't have the guts you need to reliably burn through the backcut without bogging.
[/ QUOTE ]
It shore does if you port that muffler. Then, it'll darn near keep up with a bone stock 200T in wood under 6 inches......
My guys love both my 192's...one fully woods modded, the other just muffler modded.
- Location
- Lexington, Kentucky
Thanks guys. Really, all this saw will be used for is pruning, or light removals. Plus, like already mentioned, I do not want to spend the cash on a 200T right now, if all the saw will be used for is pruning and light removals.
- Location
- Lexington, Kentucky
Today was awesome!!! Did some sub work for a past employee, who's a really great guy and climber!! Instead of paying us cash for use of Dad and I, plus the chip truck/chipper, he gave us a almost brand new 192T with easy start. And man, this thing is awesome!!! Light weight, starts easy, and just overall a great saw! Dad and I are going to reserve it for use by only me and him.
- Location
- Lexington, Kentucky
What do you guys think. We're going to put the 3/8 picco chain on it and a 12" bar. What say you??? 12" too small???
- Location
- North of Boston
12" with the 3/8P is just right. I feel the 3/8P takes too much power with anything bigger than a 12". The PMN doesnt cut that bad ya know!
- Location
- Lexington, Kentucky
Thanks!! What's the PMN???
- Location
- North of Boston
Picco Micro Narrow. Its the oter chain the 192T will run. Same as the pole saws.
- Location
- NJ
anyone try 1/4p on one of these saws? just wondering if the rpm would increase, and the extra teeth help it cut faster. I know thats what we used to do with the echos back in the day of the 280 wonder saws
Roger_Barnett
Participating member
- Location
- Seattle, in the PNWet
g'mornin' Tom!
All you need is a dremel for the 192. Open that sucker way up...maybe in stages so it doesn't get too loud. There's a hole inside that can be enlarged a bunch, then the deflector needs to be reshaped. This will blow some of the gases straight out, which hasn't been an issue with heat on my hand, but it does tend to melt a bit of the plastic on the cover. Then you need to retune the carb, as the rpm's will be too high as it is now too lean and needs more fuel. I've been able to achieve the proper rpm without removing and resetting the limiter caps.
All you need is a dremel for the 192. Open that sucker way up...maybe in stages so it doesn't get too loud. There's a hole inside that can be enlarged a bunch, then the deflector needs to be reshaped. This will blow some of the gases straight out, which hasn't been an issue with heat on my hand, but it does tend to melt a bit of the plastic on the cover. Then you need to retune the carb, as the rpm's will be too high as it is now too lean and needs more fuel. I've been able to achieve the proper rpm without removing and resetting the limiter caps.
- Location
- Lexington, Kentucky
Alright guys, I'm thinking about just taking the spark arrester out for know. I read in a few previous posts that it was ok, and it helped out a bit. Question though, would I have to adjust idle speed or the carb after removing the spark arrester.
Also, a sort of dumb question, but where exactly is the spark arrester in a 192T.
Also, a sort of dumb question, but where exactly is the spark arrester in a 192T.
Rangerdanger,
Check out the website racesaws.com
I found a forum thread, ms192t muffler mod.
http://www.racesaws.com/showthread.php?t=250&highlight=192t
Also search the Modded work saws section.
It will help you mod your new saw.
Check out the website racesaws.com
I found a forum thread, ms192t muffler mod.
http://www.racesaws.com/showthread.php?t=250&highlight=192t
Also search the Modded work saws section.
It will help you mod your new saw.
- Location
- North of Boston
Great site!
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
[ QUOTE ]
So what are you guys recommending you switch to for the bar and chain for the 192t. The stihl chain I've had problems with the cutters breaking off on me. I want to switch to the 12". Any suggestions on chain and bar would be great. Sorry to high jack your thread RD.
[/ QUOTE ]
I use a 12", .050 gauge Oregon bar with 3/8" Oregon VX chain on a 200T. Recently switched to the same stuff but with a 14" bar because TD work is about all I'm getting these days.
I like the Oregon setup better than the Stihl and the chain is easier to keep sharp.
So what are you guys recommending you switch to for the bar and chain for the 192t. The stihl chain I've had problems with the cutters breaking off on me. I want to switch to the 12". Any suggestions on chain and bar would be great. Sorry to high jack your thread RD.
[/ QUOTE ]
I use a 12", .050 gauge Oregon bar with 3/8" Oregon VX chain on a 200T. Recently switched to the same stuff but with a 14" bar because TD work is about all I'm getting these days.
I like the Oregon setup better than the Stihl and the chain is easier to keep sharp.
Roger_Barnett
Participating member
- Location
- Seattle, in the PNWet
I use that Picco Narrow bar and chain on the 192T. It is kinda funky, but is light and offers less resistance than .050 normal Picco. Both my 192's are modded, one fully, one just muffler. They are plenty fast and powerful to run normal chain. I prefer Stihl chain.....and modded, the li'l saws handle 14" bars with aplomb. I have always run 16 inch on my Husky and Stihl climb saws....for reach and ability to cut bigger wood, but do kinda like 14"-- more nimble and a tad faster.
