Most counties in Michigan have their own road commissions, separate from any DPWs. Ours had the forestry dept personnel called first, depending on overtime hours, if not enough, then went to the general maintance people, which got a yearly refresher course.
New, took advantage of Arborwear’s sale and crawled into the twenty first century by buying a blower, already have these from a saw purchase.
$245, shipping included, PayPal, f&f.
I picked it up right away, an early masterpiece using UltraTech and Samson’s instructions on the left.
The black one’s twisted core strands were removed and and a small dyneema braided one put in. I figure out which size, when doubled in diameter, will slide into the cover, with little...
Finally sent the improved version in for testing and got better results with burying the cover, just a loss of 11% of the break strength, and still low profile.
Also trying different methods to get more flexible double eye friction hitch cords.
It’s still called Tech Cord, now the maker is stated as Teufelberger, which owns NER. It is now rated at 4800#, the stiffness can be tamed by cutting some core out to leave some slack in the cover.
In the saddlehunter world, a tether is another name for a lanyard that is choked on the tree. If the lanyard is used attached to each side it is called a linesmen’s rope, or belt.
Beeline, or other hitch cord would work, might be more expensive though.
One of the “skinny” double braid splices does eliminate the core from the eye, a couple others have a quarter of the core going through. The longer bury helps, but they are weaker than a regular class I double braid splice.
For the hitch, you can go back in time to the single eye split tails. The Knut H works good, self hand tends on its own, and a few others.
The green cord is a loop, makes tying the Knut H easier.
https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/stitching-instead-of-splicing
This method seems to get stronger results than trying to copy machine stitching.