Southbury Ct. Stand of American Beech dead all around a clients property. I briefly read the article. There does not seem to be any other clear way to diagnose this other than the striped leaves? It would be nice if I could take wood sample to my local ag station this winter.
It reminds me of a...
I really like that idea for a bit of neem in your bar oil.
Could you fill me in how codit is faster in broken leaders/branches as opposed to chainsaw cuts. I've always had the school of thought to get broken, stubbed ends cut to nodes/collars to prevent decay/pathogens from moving further down...
Percentage is based per dollar paid to said employee. I believe we are 34% here. 55 to 60 sounds high but each state is different. I know of guys around me that are at 41%.
https://www.treecarescience.com/treecare-products/diehard-biorush
This is the product I use. I also use the Bio Rush Plus that includes a little N and P. I've been using them for the last 7 years with good results.
Check how many oz. you're using per inch and get back to us. I don't do premix solutions with imidacloprid it's to easy to over dose. .2 oz per inch of dbh is where you want to be.
Foliar apps of Zenieth 75wsp are labeled at 1 pack (1.6 oz.) per 300 gallons. I would go back and check your mix rate. If you are using it that high that would explain the mite outbreak.
Hort oil will kill mites on contact but has no residual effect. Coverage is essential to good control.
I like to keep them running around in circles. Did you say the tree was in the front of the house? Oh its in the rear? Oh the rear front or the rear side? And so on.
I hear from them via email and they've used local houses that are for sale pictures saying they just bought the house. Cancer of...
Horticultural oil at 2% will take care of your mites and adelgid. What rate did you apply the imidacloprid at?
Keep in mind yearly applications of imidacloprid are not necessary to control adelgid. I've seen mite outbreaks from yearly apps.
1 app at .2 oz. per inch of dbh should give you at...
As for the question "should all be excavated"? I would say yes. Once the mulch is removed the encouragement for secondary root system growth stops. The sooner it is cleared the sooner girdling root issues can be addressed as well.
Your working in a dangerous environment. I would walk if it is at all possible. Nothing is more dangerous than someone who thinks they know what they are doing but doesn't have a clue.
There is another side to this though. When your wife is involved with the business it is very hard to leave work at the "office". The problems or issues tend to come home and continue on through dinner and the evening. At least that was the case for me. If I had it to do all over again I would...
Excluded bark in the U shaped crotch, no obvious targets.
I tell my clients all the time, no trees no risk, but no trees equal a crummy property.
From what I can see I would vote to retain the asset.