Courant Phoenix

Why do you want a spliced eye on it? I don't see a hand splice being worth it for a piece of cordage that you will wear out in not that much time. I only bother on stuff like Beeline and HRC, where you can do a quick job on the naked core and just whiplock the cover on. I kinda gave up on that style now though, as I like my hitchs to have very short legs, and the sewn eyes are ideal for a very compact system. I hand sew them when I have more time than money.
 
Most parallel strand splices would make long, stiff legs. Could take strands out and replace with a dyneema, or Vectran hollow braid core, Samson’s Tuck Bury splice makes it easy to do covered eye hitch cords.
Can also use a stopper knot in back, gives shortest legs, and acts as a tender.
Black hitch shows short legs are possible with splicing
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If I am reading it correctly, he is saying to fully remove the core and just make long buries that overlap in the taper. I would be interested in what measurements were used to get that length.
 
So, the challenge for me is figuring out how much length will be lost to the expansion of the outer layer as it gets stuffed, but with this method, there should be effectively no expansion as one is removing the core entirely and replacing it with slightly less material? @Brocky , do you have a formula for calculating required lengths for this method? I could start guessing and checking, but I don't have much cordage laying around, but I have enough to make one for sure if I know the numbers, and I am super keen to try this out.
 
Yes, that’s a 3mm core in a Hollowblock2 loop I cut the stitched section off, makes for a nice thick cover.

The overlapping tapers were started about an inch from the eyes, with each tapered bury ending at the one inch mark to keep the “core” a consistent diameter. This method would break at the base of the eye, opposite the throat. This seemed to be the break strength of cover, the more Technora the stronger it would be.
I did another test with some dyneema single braid, instead of ending the bury an inch away from the eyes, I tapered down 3/4 of the strands, and buried the remaining 1/4 of the strands to the eye, this made it about 300-400 lbs stronger than the cord, the buries helped the “cover“ with the load.
Stopped at this point, but plan to try taking the 1/4 amount of strands through the eye, and maybe a little longer, like the core bury of a double braid splice.

Most covers are less than 50% of the diameter, I get idea of the eye size and how baggy cover will be after burying with a short section of cover.

IMG_7091.jpeg
The tails will lengthen as they’re tapered, so the tapering needs to be measured, not by counting strands, and the braid maintained as much as possible.
After burying the tails, with the eyes the right size, pinch them and pull them apart slowly and once the tails start to shorten, stop, this is the length, more pulling will misalign the tapers, leading to a thinner middle. If it’s thicker in the middle, pull apart some more, sew each end before cutting off tails.
That’s the basics, a lot of trail and error with some of it because each cord type is different.

 
Nothing to add splice related but I do love the phoenix cordage, it’s ran great for me with a knut hitch on multiple rope lanyards.
 
Rope_goat said:
I think for hitch cords the best splice is Brummell
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When a cord is has a core that is good for that it's nice, but I think that Pheonix is parallel core. There isn't a way to brummel lock such a cord. That only works in Icetail, HRC, Beeline, and other such constructions.
 
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