Crimsonking
Been here a while
How are you storing it? I only had cubes when I had some, and they hated each other.
This is a fun thread, I’m so late to the party. I haven’t seen much about the pile hitch mentioned yet. That’s my go-to when attaching the throwline to the climb or rig line. I’ve seen every other method slip off at some point, but have never seen a properly set pile hitch come off.
My preferred method for attaching is 8-12” below the end. When I bump into tight unions or blocking suckers, I drop the line a couple feet, pull quickly, pause before contact, then pull quickly again. This usually allows the line to travel up and float beside the obstruction, with the second tug flipping the line over the obstruction. It’s rarely a first-try technique, but works the majority of the time without re-throwing, switching ends, etc. It has a much higher success rate than muscling a half-hitched tip through.
EDC- two cubes minimum, each equipped with 180’, 1.75mm zing it (wish they were 200), 10oz on each side girthed to permaloops, with a spare 14oz stored with the throwing end. For grabby stuff I switch to the 14oz. Otherwise it is used for extra weight. I almost always use a third weight when double bagging. Capturing the bottom loop of all the weights with a microbiner during double bagging helps reduce the chances of an accidental bolo which renders two lines useless at once.
Another fun isolating technique is midline girthing a weight, when double bagging is a bit too much. If that was already mentioned, I apologize- trying to catch up on one shot leaves details a little fuzzy.
I throw predominantly one-handed, but use basket throw to throw behind me for crowded/vertical shots where swing and/or arc aren’t possible (learned from a mentor). Try it, it’s awesome!!! Bonus, it has major impression points for teammates and clients. The big shot comes out in the woods or for the 90’+ shots.
I have to agree with someone else who mentioned keeping the line running through your off hand. You can manipulate the speed arc, and aerial “lay” of the line. I’ve missed spar throws but was able to coax the lay over a union and then hit the brakes to drop it in. Total face-saver
When installing two lines in the same union- attach one on the end as usual, then install the other a couple feet higher on the throw line (midline). I have yet to find an easier, productive method. If you have one, hit me with it, please!
Lately, I’ve had to climb many compromised trees that require back-guys. Some had to be installed prior to climbing. To get a line isolated around the trunk and pulling against the lean:
- Throw one line at desired height, as pull tail up so that it ends up traveling toward desired back-guy anchor point.
-Then throw another line on other side of trunk at the same point, and make sure the throw weight falls down the same line as the first.
-Then pull the other rope tail up, through, and toward the back-guy anchor. Both tails should be in hand, and the middle of the line should be wrapped around the trunk.
-Now you can send the running bowline or preferred knot up to cinch the tree.
This technique has been the only thing I could think of to cinch trees with extreme lean at suitable guying points. Anyone have a simpler solution?
. The price is cheaper than rebuying the others multiple times in the lifespan of one falteimer.
