Reliable DIY power ascender

39Buick said:
You maybe right! check out the first video he made. He was only using the BDB above the device. The device is meant as an ascender only. Once at height its removed and lowered or hung in the tree. Also check out the wrapter videos online. same principal but this device is affordable. I don't see where the disaster you refer to is going to come from. care to elaborate?
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Have you guys looked at the Ronin Power Ascender?? You can also descend with it. It sells for around $2,000 and seems like a very robust option and definitely way less complicated.
 
Here is link to one of the many Ronin Videos:
I had seriously thought of buying this device, but I started Recreational Tree Climbing for the exercise. We are contemplating a zipline so this may be of some use to us down the line.
 
Back in the day when the other "suitcase" style ascenders were available before the Ronin, I fundamentally disliked putting the device in series between me and the rope. I made an electric copy of the Wraptor that looked a lot like the Dewalt/rollgliss but it went under a climbing system. My current Arbscender tucks under your saddle bridge. Point being, I feel it's inherently better to have your climb system on the line above the ascender to take the ascender out of the life support category. It's a design and philosophy decision, but that's my opinion. Hence I'm not keen on the Ronin and the others too. Not saying they're bad, just not for me. You my share the same desire for the peace of mind it offers. If you're handy, jig one up and grab a drill. Voila.
 
Bart_ said:
Back in the day when the other "suitcase" style ascenders were available before the Ronin, I fundamentally disliked putting the device in series between me and the rope. I made an electric copy of the Wraptor that looked a lot like the Dewalt/rollgliss but it went under a climbing system. My current Arbscender tucks under your saddle bridge. Point being, I feel it's inherently better to have your climb system on the line above the ascender to take the ascender out of the life support category. It's a design and philosophy decision, but that's my opinion. Hence I'm not keen on the Ronin and the others too. Not saying they're bad, just not for me. You my share the same desire for the peace of mind it offers. If you're handy, jig one up and grab a drill. Voila.
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Funny you mention putting the ascender above the device... I've got a wraptor I use occasionally, and I always have a zigzag/chicane above the safety rope grab at the top. That way when I get to my spot to work, I take the wraptor off and my zigzag is ready to go no threading or anything
 
theatertech87 said:
Funny you mention putting the ascender above the device... I've got a wraptor I use occasionally, and I always have a zigzag/chicane above the safety rope grab at the top. That way when I get to my spot to work, I take the wraptor off and my zigzag is ready to go no threading or anything
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I use my modified RollGliss/DeWalt power ascender this way, with a ZZ/RW just above it as my life support and working rig. The power ascender comes off the rope as soon as I am at height.
 
Sounds fun to have my SRT device above the Wraptor when I use that to ascend. Take the Wraptor off, send it down and go right to work.

The thing I would give up though is the ability to repel out of the tree at any given point in an emergency, as in, : yellow jacket nest, Wraptor shredded the ascending rope, etc, etc.
 
Merle Nelson said:
Sounds fun to have my SRT device above the Wraptor when I use that to ascend. Take the Wraptor off, send it down and go right to work.

The thing I would give up though is the ability to repel out of the tree at any given point in an emergency, as in, : yellow jacket nest, Wraptor shredded the ascending rope, etc, etc.
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In this case I'm tied into the wraptor using is default attachment. The zigzag doesn't get used until I'm at height
 
A weakness of my current Arbscender is that the sheave puts just a little too much drag on the rope to allow instant descent when you pop the clutch. I either have to rejig the sheave wheel or loosen up my rope wrench hitch combo. I noticed my hitch/wrench ran free-er on a new rope, who knows, maybe that's enough do it. But, if tweaked correctly, just pop the clutch and zoom you're down.
 
Does anyone know if increasing the diameter of the sheave would decrease the torque force needed to lift someone?

I know it would require cutting off the useless rope guard and welding some kind of rope guide as the rope enters and exits the sheave as well as modifying the shaft to accommodate the new sheave.
 
conk said:
Does anyone know if increasing the diameter of the sheave would decrease the torque force needed to lift someone?

I know it would require cutting off the useless rope guard and welding some kind of rope guide as the rope enters and exits the sheave as well as modifying the shaft to accommodate the new sheave.
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Yes, the diameter of the sheave directly affects the force needed to lift a given weight. This is simply a question of leverage. Radius of the sheave is the lever. Your question has it backwards unfortunately. Increasing the sheave diameter will increase the force needed, not decrease it.
 
So if you could get/make/modify a sheave that has a smaller diameter you would not event need to modify the rollgliss 550 useless rope guard and the forces would be less on the metal gears?

However a larger sheave seems like it would be far better at gripping the rope with a force that does not damage it while at the same time not slipping. I want to make something that won't damage the rope. I noticed rope damage even with the captivated rope.
 
This is getting a little higher than my engineering pay grade, so just a few general rules. Larger diameter means more surface contact which means more friction on the rope. This would be a good thing for not slipping. A smaller diameter sheeve takes less torque to rotate but does not rotate as fast as a larger diameter. So a smaller diameter is a slower ascent. As far as what diameter you should use, I can't give you that info, except maybe use the one that is provided?

What drill are you trying to operate it with? The 20v Dewalt has plenty of power running a stock roll glass 500

What kind of damage are you referring to? Blackening the rope? If so I find that to be normal rope on aluminum interaction. I've seen the same reaction to a rope from a rope runner in an extreme use.
 
rope.jpgI though the rope runner was stainless steel. My rope wrench does not change the color of the rope. I use a rack for washing high-rise windows and this happens to all the ropes but they do not look like the photo I posted. I have never used 3/8 rope before to climb on so maybe it does not damage 11mm and larger rope. I have not shaved off the metal yet to make in midline attachable to test. Anyone noticed damage to their nice ropes from the sheave?

I use a 999 dewalt. There is not a problem with it pulling me up and the break in the drill holds me most of the time when stopping. I weight about 180 pounds.

I was looking at this atlas sheave and noticed how much deeper the rope seems to sit in it.
 
I have two modded r500 units, one with a widened sheave so that the rope runs deeper in the sheave. I have used both of them repeatedly for rec climbing with the five different ropes I have (I sold the original smaller Kermantle stuff that came with them). I have experienced no damage to any of my climbing ropes at all. Feel the edges of the sheave and be sure there are no sharp edges. Take a fine file or a wad of emery paper to it if so. Note that rope will slip in one of these units if you do not hold tension on the tail output side or else rig something riding against the output side to hold the rope in. I made a swinging roller held tight against the rope with a bungee, riding on the rope just where it exists the rollGliss. No more slip at all on any of my ropes. I am heavier than you by ten pounds, also. I will try to get a photo today of what I did.
 
conk said:
View attachment 74021I though the rope runner was stainless steel. My rope wrench does not change the color of the rope. I use a rack for washing high-rise windows and this happens to all the ropes but they do not look like the photo I posted. I have never used 3/8 rope before to climb on so maybe it does not damage 11mm and larger rope. I have not shaved off the metal yet to make in midline attachable to test. Anyone noticed damage to their nice ropes from the sheave?

I use a 999 dewalt. There is not a problem with it pulling me up and the break in the drill holds me most of the time when stopping. I weight about 180 pounds.

I was looking at this atlas sheave and noticed how much deeper the rope seems to sit in it.
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I've not seen that kind of damage. I'd definitely check for burrs as mentioned.
 
Thanks Burapeg, I could not really see the details in your videos
Nice to hear your ropes have not been damaged.
I can't believe some people here are using that 3/8 stuff that that they can't remove midline.

Has your rope ever come off the sheave or part of the sheave?

How much did you get for the rope?
and did you cut it to remove it?
 
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