Reliable DIY power ascender

Bart_

Active Member
Jehinten, is that a worn spot inside the sheave, on one of the teeth? If so how did it happen or was it already there when you got it?

edit: dead center in this except from your picture:
Rollgliss dented sheave tooth.png
 
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Jehinten

Well-Known Member
Jehinten, is that a worn spot inside the sheave, on one of the teeth? If so how did it happen or was it already there when you got it?
Looks to just be the lighting from the flash. I'll check it out in person, but I've not noticed any wear during use.
 

southsoundtree

Well-Known Member
Since I have a seldom used Wraptor, I'm never going to get around to messing with my Rollgliss. I think it's the 500, IIRC.

Any interested parties?
 

samsquatch

Well-Known Member
Well, I finished my rollgliss R550 setup over the weekend. No major modifications to the stock device. It is not midline attachable. drill is Dewalt DCD996. I use it with the stock 3/8 KM line, and the line is dedicated to ascending. I have another TIP for my climbing system, (DDRT Unicender).
First thing I added was a stainless shoulder bolt to mount my safety hitch cord to. The holes in the steel shackle were already there. Added a couple washers to mind the E2E (8mm Ocean Poly) and lock nut. 8mm locks up nice on the stock 3/8" with Distel hitch.
Next I swapped the drive shafts. Since the rollgliss is intended to be used by a rescuer above the victim, the normal orientation is for the working end facing down. when in this orientation, the black wheel that the R550 comes with is mounted on top. When you use the device like we are, the longer shaft is on the bottom. it works, but then the devices are offset from one another and fabbing the drill twist rod would be tricky. I found it best to swap shafts, so the drill & rollgliss are more of a square package.
To mind the drill twist at torque, I fab'd the threaded rod & mounting plate, simple enough process. I think the clutch cover mounts (M4 size) should hold up OK to the torque of the drill. It is 1:40 ratio after all. I purchased some stainless M4 panhead screws as the stock ones weren't long enough.

First aerial test was today, TIP was 60' up in a wide silver maple. I was rigging over my house, by myself, and so the ups & downs associated with rigging alone were sooo much better with this power ascender.
One thing I did notice, if I will be up & down by myself all day. In reverse and under my descending load, the drill will make a slipping/clinking noise. It happens often. I can't seem to reproduce it on command, so I'm not sure yet what leads to it doing that. But it does sound like the drill is ripping itself apart :( It works fine if you just use it for ascending. And so I was trying to solve this problem: how do I ascend with the device, detach, go about my work, then descend on my climbing system, but then have the drill back at the bottom when I'm ready to go back up?
This conundrum is exasperated because mine is not midline attachable and I'm using it on the stock rope, dedicated for just ascending.

Cheers

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Burrapeg

Well-Known Member
That's some nice looking work, SamSquatch. But yeah it is extremely frustrating to not have the thing mid-line attachable if one has multiple ascents to do. I used mine at first with the dedicated captive rope and it was just too inconvenient. It is SO nice to be able to use it anytime and on your main climbing rope, with it quickly removable. Saves battery use too, to not have to run the rope back thru it under power.
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
how do I ascend with the device, detach, go about my work, then descend on my climbing system, but then have the drill back at the bottom when I'm ready to go back up?
Three options, either run the drill in reverse while in the air, then once it's back to the appropriate place on the rope, lower it to the ground.

The second other option is to use it in basal mode. Disconnect aloft, then rappel down and undo the basal, control both legs of rope to lower the device. Once it's down retie the basal and repeat. The tail of the working side will continue to get longer with each time you do this until you need to reset it due to the basal side no longer being long enough.

The third is to come down with your weight on your climbing device but running the drill in reverse (unweighted) as you go
 

samsquatch

Well-Known Member
The third is to come down with your weight on your climbing device but running the drill in reverse (unweighted) as you go
I tried this one yesterday, but I was fumbling with the safety hitch, rappelling on the uni, and running the drill in reverse. three hands needed. It would help to remove the safety hitch, as long as I have the climbing system attached this might work OK, but would still require both hands.

For true one handed rappeling, next time I will just take the chuck off the shaft. The way my twist rod works, it will hold the drill in any orientation as long as it has the battery installed. Take the battery out, and I can work it out (also a feature).
In reality, I wouldn't even need the DDRT system for descent like this, because the R550 braked descent is very good, it's about 3ft/s.
But in order to keep all my gear with me on ascent & descent, I would keep the DDRT attached and rappel with it, the clutched R550 just going along for the ride, acting as backup.
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
I tried this one yesterday, but I was fumbling with the safety hitch, rappelling on the uni, and running the drill in reverse. three hands needed. It would help to remove the safety hitch, as long as I have the climbing system attached this might work OK, but would still require both hands.

For true one handed rappeling, next time I will just take the chuck off the shaft. The way my twist rod works, it will hold the drill in any orientation as long as it has the battery installed. Take the battery out, and I can work it out (also a feature).
In reality, I wouldn't even need the DDRT system for descent like this, because the R550 braked descent is very good, it's about 3ft/s.
But in order to keep all my gear with me on ascent & descent, I would keep the DDRT attached and rappel with it, the clutched R550 just going along for the ride, acting as backup.
Yup, I forgot about your safety hitch on the rollgliss. when I use mine, which is pretty seldom, I winch up and tend my climbing device as I go. This way your primary climbing system is your backup during ascent with no need for the additional hitch.
 

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