Reliable DIY power ascender

[Jehinten]

I can't believe some people here are using that 3/8 stuff that that they can't remove midline.

How come? It's a rated rope and the device is built to use it.

It's likely the way it is used, which determines how best to customize and use it. I don't use mine often but when I do it's with the stock rope. I set it and my climb line, and tend my climb line while ascending the powered ascender. Back the rope back out and lower the ascender to the ground.

 

[Jehinten]

Jehinten what kind and size rope are you using?

I use the rope that came with it. Only change I made to the rope was I cut off the snaps and removed about a foot of core to make installation of the rope easier, if I take it out for any reason

 

[conk]

Do you push a rope wrench up on top of it?

 

[Burrapeg]

Thanks Burapeg, I could not really see the details in your videos
Nice to hear your ropes have not been damaged.
I can't believe some people here are using that 3/8 stuff that that they can't remove midline.

Has your rope ever come off the sheave or part of the sheave?

How much did you get for the rope?
and did you cut it to remove it?

I don't actually recall how much I sold the rope for. There were two pieces, separate auctions on eBay. Just went for the highest bid and it was maybe three years ago now. I got the stuff out of the rollGliss by just cutting on end fitting off. The rollGliss will actually work fine as an ascent-only device with the original rope, if you carry your second main climbing line with you, for guys who are not set up to modify the units. It is just a far less PITA if you can make one midline attachable and usable on normal climbing rope. The sheave itself works OK as-is on our larger rope, but as you see the housing itself is a problem unless cut away to clear. And you need some fairleads of some kind. I used ball bearings from skateboards.

 

[conk]

The main reason is because you need to move to another rope and a 3/8 rope is very uncomfortable. This requires more gear and multiple ropes. Or switching gear(the back up device, rope wrench or rope runner) and one extra rope as the bare minimum. Also, I am extremely comfortable climbing on a rope wrench with rope between 11mm and 12mm in regards to setback. If the rope wrench is not set and I slip I know the rope wrench will catch me even if it is not set. I am not as comfortable with this on a 3/8 inch rope and the hitch cord is far more difficult to manage. I practiced climbing on the 3/8 rope with a 9.3mm epicord just to get a feel for the wrench on this size rope. I do not feel safe during the setback onto the hitch. I still have not ascended high on the 550 for that very reason.

If Burrapeg experience is the norm you would avoid all that hassle by simply making the modifications. They don't seem that difficult.

I am about to try this soon so hopefully my observations match burrapegs.

 

[Jehinten]

Do you push a rope wrench up on top of it?

I don't own a wrench. I run a rope runner or unicender on a separate rope. It self tends while using the power ascender

 

[conk]

How does the rope runner go up?

Are you holding the rope down with something from below?
Do you have any images of your setup?

 

[conk]

Hey Burrapeg can a an angle grinder be used to cut the metal. I am planning to cut straight down on the black line close to the shackle then cut the cured pieces completely off and flush with the face.
I then plan to sand/trim the top left and right two pieces. Does this seem practical or would you recommend a better tool?

 

[Jehinten]

How does the rope runner go up?

Are you holding the rope down with something from below?
Do you have any images of your setup?

Post in thread 'Lazy or Clever?' https://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/lazy-or-clever.36948/post-560349


At the time of this post I was using a HH2, but it's the same with the runner

 

[conk]

I don't understand how your dragging the runner up the rope with you without a weight attached to it. Seems like it would drag the rope unless your constantly tending it. Do you also tend the 3/8 line. I not sure I understand you.

 

[Burrapeg]

Hey Burrapeg can a an angle grinder be used to cut the metal. I am planning to cut straight down on the black line close to the shackle then cut the cured pieces completely off and flush with the face.
I then plan to sand/trim the top left and right two pieces. Does this seem practical or would you recommend a better tool?

Angle grinders can load up pretty bad on aluminium and not cut very well. It is sticky stuff. A hacksaw with coarse blade works better on any of it you can reach with one. Best deal is to find a friend or neighbor, or local shop, with a milling machine. It is a quick job with a mill.

 

[Jehinten]

I don't understand how your dragging the runner up the rope with you without a weight attached to it. Seems like it would drag the rope unless your constantly tending it. Do you also tend the 3/8 line. I not sure I understand you.

Take a look at the post from the other thread that I linked. I hang my saw from my climb line, connect to the tending point of the HH2/ Roperunner/ unicender, it trails up as the powerscender goes up. 3/8 line does not need to be tended, that is why they cast those pieces of aluminum around the sheave, it keeps the rope engaged so that it will ascend without tending and no weight below it.

 

[samsquatch]

Thanks Burapeg, I could not really see the details in your videos
Nice to hear your ropes have not been damaged.
I can't believe some people here are using that 3/8 stuff that that they can't remove midline.

Has your rope ever come off the sheave or part of the sheave?

How much did you get for the rope?
and did you cut it to remove it?

For me it makes sense. I’ll make a video of my climbing system.

 

[conk]

Thanks Ok I understand. I am too lazy for that.

 

[samsquatch]

I’m setup same as Jehinten, completely stock R550 and tend up on my climbing system, and I’m rocking the Unicender-in-loop climbing system.

 

[Jehinten]

Thanks Ok I understand. I am too lazy for that.

I don't follow. Too lazy to not modify a unit and to let a device self tend?

Either way, do what works best for you.

 

[conk]

I understand your weighting your line so you can ascend with the rope runner. If the roper runner is on the same line you above you don't need any weight on the line and you have your saw with you.

Installing two lines is a little more work. I know the modification is a little one time work, but the fact it can be removed or used the way you currently do or on more comfortable rope increases the versatility greatly and probably worth the investment in my case. I think I will try what your doing using a rope wrench just because I can't easily modify the unit for a little while. Thanks for explaining your technique.

 

[Jehinten]

I understand your weighting your line so you can ascend with the rope runner. If the roper runner is on the same line you above you don't need any weight on the line and you have your saw with you.

Installing two lines is a little more work. I know the modification is a little one time work, but the fact it can be removed or used the way you currently do or on more comfortable rope increases the versatility greatly and probably worth the investment in my case. I think I will try what your doing using a rope wrench just because I can't easily modify the unit for a little while. Thanks for explaining your technique.

No problem. BTW to ease the task of setting a line. Try pulling both up at the same time for a basal anchor. They can get twisted and a little difficult to remove only one of the two. Or figure out the length of your basal in your climb line, tie an alpine butterfly and connect your 3/8 rope to it. One rope to set, easy to remove the 3/8 once you ascend.

 

[conk]

Hey Burrapeg do you think a portable band saw would work to cut off those pieces cleanly?

 

[Burrapeg]

Hey Burrapeg do you think a portable band saw would work to cut off those pieces cleanly?

Might be kinda hard to control it. I would use a hand hacksaw.