Hitch hiker/2/x thread

One way to get your Wrench to gobble up slack is to make sure that you set up your tether so that it allows the Wrench to sit down when ascending or taking up slack. All the tethers I have used try and force the Wrench upwards which puts a bend it the rope even when ascending. Most do it through some sort of rubber grommet on the top of the tether, or in the case of the Reon Rounds tether he uses a spring. I myself run the ISC short tethers and you can see from the picture that I remove the rubber grommet which lets the wrench sit all the way down during ascent and the rope to fall through the wrench unimpeded (stock on left, modified on right). This tether setup with a 4 wrap Michoacan almost feels like a mechanical in its ability to eat slack. Some worry about the Wrench engaging with the grommet removed but I have not found it to be an issue. You can also simply start removing small sections of the grommet until you get the tether to function the way you like it. For me I like it best with it completely gone. YMMV of coarse.

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One way to get your Wrench to gobble up slack is to make sure that you set up your tether so that it allows the Wrench to sit down when ascending or taking up slack. All the tethers I have used try and force the Wrench upwards which puts a bend it the rope even when ascending. Most do it through some sort of rubber grommet on the top of the tether, or in the case of the Reon Rounds tether he uses a spring. I myself run the ISC short tethers and you can see from the picture that I remove the rubber grommet which lets the wrench sit all the way down during ascent and the rope to fall through the wrench unimpeded (stock on left, modified on right). This tether setup with a 4 wrap Michoacan almost feels like a mechanical in its ability to eat slack. Some worry about the Wrench engaging with the grommet removed but I have not found it to be and issue. You can also simply start removing small sections of the grommet until you get the tether to function the way you like it. For me I like it best with it completely gone. YMMV of coarse.

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The eyes on that pit! Looks just like mine. Pits are the best.
The at height tether is what I ordered. I'll try it stock and see how it goes. Can you just turn it backwards so the rubber is on the wrong side and doesn't hold the wrench up? Or would that mess with it some other way?
 
Just flipping it over would work and allow you to see if you like running it without the grommet while not altering the tether.
 
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The Fix pulley fits entirely inside the carabiner when you pull up on the rope. The carabiner can't go anywhere.
Btw, I picked up a fixe pulley and it really does work like you said. When I pull the rope up to take up slack, the pulley goes right inside the biner and stops it from getting misaligned perfectly. Thanks!
 
Used to use super glue gel for the nonmeltable types, but that left the ends prone to snagging while tying knots or hitches. Recently trying whipping twine and very low heat to fuse together.

I used some 130# hollow braid dacron trolling line to whip the ends of some Ocean Poly. Seems to work decent, and the ends still fit fine through the dogbone of the HH2, though 50# or 80# would probably work better...but 130# was all I had.
 
I can tell ya why. Its not shiny enough. It not pretty enough. Its not blingy enough. Its not the so-called latest and greatest design. What these fools don't seem to understand is that the HH is probably the best all-around and most versatile multicender on the market, and once dialed in it can offer a stunning level of performance.

That's what i was trying to imply with saying "it belongs in every beginners bag...."

Only after blowing $2k buying up all the newest shiney go-go-gadgets & posting them up over at Insta-Arbs, do most realize the versatility of this device & the very basics it relies on. The basics most gear centric beginners are bypassing in their learning curve.. I seeing more & more people on this internet go from, "never have i ever" worked in the business, to starting a YouTube channel & giving advice, all within 6 months.. it's fucking crazy..
 
I'm not sure if it's possible with the HH2 versus the HHX, but.. has anyone tried or considered using the wider Pinto Rig spacer instead of a pulley underneath? I swore i thought i head it brought up somewhere, but searching this thread & another proved fruitless regarding the spacer...

I have the HHX & as much as i love this thing & as well versed in hitch cord as i am, i cannot find "my" perfect happy medium.. It's alright, but not as good as i think it can be.. at least.. not in the way i hear individuals talking about how great it can tend when dialed in.. Everything else is great it's just one of those scenarios where you adjust one thing & bugger another.. It's just almost like I've plataued for my weight, hitch & cord..

Anyhow, all the other aspects are fine, i can make it do this & that, it's just the tending that somehow keeps on creeping back up on me.. Hence my question about the Pinto Rig Spacer.. If it works.. great.. but is it going to adversely affect the other functions of this device.. & more importantly are the beveled/pronounced edges of it going to be detrimental to the cordage it will now be squishing.. i kinda liken it to running a rope in a pulley that's too small.. feel like i could use some advice on this one incase I'm over looking something... Or overthinking..
 
I'm not sure if it's possible with the HH2 versus the HHX, but.. has anyone tried or considered using the wider Pinto Rig spacer instead of a pulley underneath? I swore i thought i head it brought up somewhere, but searching this thread & another proved fruitless regarding the spacer...

I have the HHX & as much as i love this thing & as well versed in hitch cord as i am, i cannot find "my" perfect happy medium.. It's alright, but not as good as i think it can be.. at least.. not in the way i hear individuals talking about how great it can tend when dialed in.. Everything else is great it's just one of those scenarios where you adjust one thing & bugger another.. It's just almost like I've plataued for my weight, hitch & cord..

Anyhow, all the other aspects are fine, i can make it do this & that, it's just the tending that somehow keeps on creeping back up on me.. Hence my question about the Pinto Rig Spacer.. If it works.. great.. but is it going to adversely affect the other functions of this device.. & more importantly are the beveled/pronounced edges of it going to be detrimental to the cordage it will now be squishing.. i kinda liken it to running a rope in a pulley that's too small.. feel like i could use some advice on this one incase I'm over looking something... Or overthinking..
Are you suggesting to put the rig spacer on the slick pin? My first inclination is that it wouldn't work, but it's an interesting idea. Let us know if you try it!
This is what I'm using right now...
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Straight valdotain, more wraps than most think I would need, but it works for me. I have the fixe pulley under mine, that wouldn't work on your hhx of course. I tie it a little tight, than give it a couple bounces and it sets it all real nice and tending becomes good. Without the bounces, it would be real hard to tend untill it went thru a couple of tension cycles.
 
One of the attributes that the HHX possesses is no change in tending as the shackle pivots. It is, in fact, a primary component of its design.

Unfortunately, having that attachment, shackle or carabiner, pivot will not achieve the smoothest and lightest tending, imho, and pivoting will increase setback. The best tending (also with the least setback) will be when the link stays straight from hitch to bridge ring. I have only been able to do this with a pulley on the carabiner/bridge ring. I don't see how you could do this with the HHX.
 
One of the attributes that the HHX possesses is no change in tending as the shackle pivots. It is, in fact, a primary component of its design.

Unfortunately, having that attachment, shackle or carabiner, pivot will not achieve the smoothest and lightest tending, imho, and pivoting will increase setback. The best tending (also with the least setback) will be when the link stays straight from hitch to bridge ring. I have only been able to do this with a pulley on the carabiner/bridge ring. I don't see how you could do this with the HHX.
I don't understand why the slick pin pivoting would change the tending. I don't have an hhx, so maybe it's just something I can't conceptualize. With the biner in the hh2, as it pivots the curvature of the biner turns and changes the amount of friction slightly, I think thats what you are talking about, but with the slick pin shackle, being straight, turning wouldn't change anything I thought.
 
Everything else is great it's just one of those scenarios where you adjust one thing & bugger another.. It's just almost like I've plataued for my weight, hitch & cord..

What hitch cord and rope are you using? I have the HH2, the best combination I found was arbpro 9.3 hitch cord with 4 wraps on Samson vortex. Night and day difference from what I was experiencing with the supplied beeline that came with the HH2. I later attempted Richard and Brocky's alternate hitches but never got them as smooth as the recommended hitch minus 1 wrap. That said I also got a rope runner shortly after trying their hitches, so I have not given those hitches much time.
 

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