Throw line tricks and tips learned over the years

Tom Dunlap said:
Don't buy inferior foldup throwline storage containers

Have a light bag on one end for throwing and a heavy bag on the other for manipulating

Have two complete setups because you WILL jam one

Get a light and heavy Spool of throwline. Half each of them and make a double ended throwline. Light line with light bag
Click to expand...

I've got multiple bags and multiple lines and weights. Trying to find ways to manipulate etc. (Double bag stuff, flipping, midline bag to make an 'M', etc)

Just trying to find little things that might help at comps.

I need to make a stick or contraption to help with getting over nubs, suckers, or to keep from getting wedged and stuck in crotches.
 
No stick

I came up with a Jumper close to 20
Years ago

Take two plastic soda bottles. The ones with rounded domes under the cap like Mountain Dew work
Well. Find thicker bottles

Cut the bottoms of both. Cut above the flared part below the flat for the label

Slip one into the other all the way so that you have the caps on either end

Run a layer of duct tape around the ends at the overlap

To use girth hitch the throwline around each end. Use the short end of the throwline

Hoist the bottle up until it's just below the branch. Now get a firm grip on the throwline and jerk it so that the bottle smacks the branch and jumps up. When it's in the air pull the line to direct it over the obstruction

With practice you can get the bottle to jump up a foot or so
 
Tom Dunlap said:
No stick

I came up with a Jumper close to 20
Years ago

Take two plastic soda bottles. The ones with rounded domes under the cap like Mountain Dew work
Well. Find thicker bottles

Cut the bottoms of both. Cut above the flared part below the flat for the label

Slip one into the other all the way so that you have the caps on either end

Run a layer of duct tape around the ends at the overlap

To use girth hitch the throwline around each end. Use the short end of the throwline

Hoist the bottle up until it's just below the branch. Now get a firm grip on the throwline and jerk it so that the bottle smacks the branch and jumps up. When it's in the air pull the line to direct it over the obstruction

With practice you can get the bottle to jump up a foot or so
Click to expand...
Right on, thanks man. I'll have to play around with that.
 
Tom Dunlap said:
No stick

I came up with a Jumper close to 20
Years ago

Take two plastic soda bottles. The ones with rounded domes under the cap like Mountain Dew work
Well. Find thicker bottles

Cut the bottoms of both. Cut above the flared part below the flat for the label

Slip one into the other all the way so that you have the caps on either end

Run a layer of duct tape around the ends at the overlap

To use girth hitch the throwline around each end. Use the short end of the throwline

Hoist the bottle up until it's just below the branch. Now get a firm grip on the throwline and jerk it so that the bottle smacks the branch and jumps up. When it's in the air pull the line to direct it over the obstruction

With practice you can get the bottle to jump up a foot or so
Click to expand...
So, it's like one of those floats that hold up a rope in a pool?
 
Tuebor said:
So, it's like one of those floats that hold up a rope in a pool?
Click to expand...

Funny you should say that! One of the first iterations was a double ended fishing float. What I found was that I had to buy it. The plastic was brittle. It didn't bounce like the soda bottles did

I got the very first hint of the concept from Beddas. I was struggling with getting my rope to roll. I tried various rope whipping techniques. Beddas suggested that intie a double fishermans knot in my rope then use the increased diameter like a wheel on an axle. It worked great!

I went through several iterations before settling on the Mountain Dew bottles

No money to be made manufacturing and selling somive put it into Public Domain
 
Use a clove hitch to attach the throw line to the throw weight.

Use a pile hitch to attach the throw line to the climbing line.

When using the cradle throw I use a small slip knot with the loop pulled almost all the way in to grip on one side.

If you fold the throw cube if half instead of quarters for storage the line does not tangle as much the next time you need it.

Make sure no one is watching. ;)

Focus on the crotch you are aiming for and picture the throw weight soaring through, don't just throw willy-nilly.
 
I like to throw over the tree, isolate one side close to the crotch I want and drop another line over the crotch with the originally tossed line. If the line original line is long enough you can do a midline bag and use the one line. I like different bags, or color lines for this as it’s easy to accidentally pull the wrong line or end and you must start over. I use this because flipping lines over and around more often then not gets my line stuck or away from my target.

Strumming the line when the weight just doesn’t quite weigh enough to come down. Some times it will work if you have a small knot that is hung up. Put slight tension with your left hand down (I’m right handed), but not enough to raise the bag. Take your right hand with two fingers and pull the line to the side from above your left hand (allow it to play through your left, DONT RAISE THE BAG. Once at full span, let it flick off your right thumb. Like strumming a stinged instrument. Doesn’t work every time, but better that half for me.

Got a little too tight of a crotch? The rope won’t go through? A little trick like Toms I use it attach my splice to the ring of the weight with a small binder. Pull the line up so it just touches the crotch, don’t pull too hard and get it stuck though. Grab the throw line as low as you can while still standing (down by your waist) and raise your hand above your head withough letting slack through your hand. Pull hard and fast in a downward motion to just below your chest but not all the way down, stop and immediately follow up with a little tug to your knees if possible. This doesn’t work every time, but when it does it’s cool.

With these three tricks I have never seen the need to use a stick, pole or other flipping device.
 
One thing I do to prevent the throw bag from jamming after a missed shot is to girth hitch the throwline to it with no knots. just leave a 6" tail and cinch it down tight. Should the bag hang up, a hard pull will usually slip the girth hitch out. often times it is the combination of the bag and the line that cause the hang-up, usually once they come apart both parts will exit the tree. If it takes you more than about three throws, just re-set the girth hitch so that it does not loosen and untie when you do not want it to.

The girth hitch is also very quick to tie/untie if you choose to take the bag off after a missed shot, just send a bight through the ring and tug on it to tighten. I'm not sure your current termination choice, but this may save you a few valuable seconds in competition.
 
The bags with the loop on the end work great for conifers when you need to go over two limbs. Often it’s hard to get the line right at or near the collar and there can be plenty of nubs or fuzz to prevent the line getting sucked in to the trunk.
To solve this take the bare end of the same line and tie to the other end of the bag (second line works to. Pull your bag about a foot below the tip and the just tug hard and fast. It takes practice but I’ve gotten a bag to fling over all the crud into the trunk.

Also worked with a guy that used an old window sash weight, he tapered both ends and welded a ring on each end. It weighed about three pounds..! Shoot line through tree with bag clear the bag and isolate with the weight. Works great on spruce and grand fir
 
I want to know more about the mid line bag. If it works how I’m envisioning around here you’d need one hell of a long line and heavyweights
 
evo said:
I want to know more about the mid line bag. If it works how I’m envisioning around here you’d need one hell of a long line and heavyweights
Click to expand...
I've used it on shorter trees, and on occasion it was an ordeal to get a 16oz weight back. If I'm not dealing with a tight crotch, I'll sometimes add a 12oz as well to help it back down.
 
Tom Dunlap said:
After judging Throwline at ITCC I learned to take off the bag if you miss a shot. About 70% of the times that competitors didn't de-bag they jammed. Not a safe bet
Click to expand...

Agreed, when using a traditional bag.

I'm always interested in the easiest way to do a thing - I sometimes call that lazy. My first choice for a throw line weight (when safe to do so) is the RopeKnight all metal torpedo shaped throw weight. I would say I use it 95% of the time or more. Of those times I leave the weight on to pull it back for a re-try about 98% of the time. And the times I have gotten it stuck (twice that I can remember) is less than one tenth of a percent. (Oh, and here is a tip about the RopeKnight. It is for sale on Ebay for about half of what it used to sell for.)

Throw Line Reels. Search those here on TreeBuzz as you would now have to make one for yourself. With 200 feet of line and set up so you can swap ends quickly they allow for usually tangle free shots with a BigShot or throw and quick rewinding in preparation for a second attempt or the next line placement.
 
Jehinten said:
One thing I do to prevent the throw bag from jamming after a missed shot is to girth hitch the throwline to it with no knots. just leave a 6" tail and cinch it down tight. Should the bag hang up, a hard pull will usually slip the girth hitch out. often times it is the combination of the bag and the line that cause the hang-up, usually once they come apart both parts will exit the tree. If it takes you more than about three throws, just re-set the girth hitch so that it does not loosen and untie when you do not want it to.

The girth hitch is also very quick to tie/untie if you choose to take the bag off after a missed shot, just send a bight through the ring and tug on it to tighten. I'm not sure your current termination choice, but this may save you a few valuable seconds in competition.
Click to expand...
Girth for sure legitest. Saves time in many ways that's how I know . You spelled them out nicely. Nobody likes a stuck bag ..a real drag. Simple things are usually best in this biz
 
evo said:
I want to know more about the mid line bag. If it works how I’m envisioning around here you’d need one hell of a long line and heavyweights
Click to expand...

With a 180’ line it works fairly well. When I know I’m close I’ll pull the end bag up 10 - 15’ Attach the mid bag as high as I can and toss it up. The end bag comes down where I can reach it and preform the isolation manuver. As for bag weight I go with the 10 or 12 that’s on the end I don’t intend on using and normally d0nt have an issue. It’s important when connecting the mid bag to girth hitch it and add a half hitch as the girth will slip. If I know it’s too high for a mid bag trick, I’ll just connect the second line (same concept) and second bag. The added weight insurers it’s going to come back down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom