Many years ago, in the On Belay climbing magazine, I suggested that carabiners be loaded in every possible way nad only the lowest number be published. That way we would get carabiners that are equally strong in all directions. I was half joking when I wrote that letter. Now I follow my suggestion and buy carabiners on the basis of their minor axis strength.
The makers of wiregate carabiners and D-shaped carabiners brush off the issue of minor axis strength by telling climbers not to load the carabiners along the minor axis. Wonderful -- just orient the carabiners while you are falling.
I would buy one of these BiWire carabiners just to put in my collection of wacko gear, but I would not use it.
The makers of wiregate carabiners and D-shaped carabiners brush off the issue of minor axis strength by telling climbers not to load the carabiners along the minor axis. Wonderful -- just orient the carabiners while you are falling.
I would buy one of these BiWire carabiners just to put in my collection of wacko gear, but I would not use it.