Won\'t top, don\'t ask.
As a freelancer, I run into arborists with quite a range of services. Some think nothing of topping off trees 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, or even 3/4th of the way down. It's a matter of continual amazement. The first few times I sub out to a new arborist, the simple things don't always turn out to be so simple.
Twice in one week, I've heard, Won't top trees? You're fired !
Some make a big production of tying a scarf around their head because of the hot weather coming up that day, and wonder why they are reminded by some stupid climber that hardhats are a legal requirement.
When instructing a recalcitrant groundie that the chainsaw should be sent up with the bar pointing downward, and with the lanyard free, so it can be attached it to the belt before untying the knot from the handle, his complaint was: Why can't we do it MY way?
Last week, a new Figure 8 owner had too much tension on the letdown line, and the piece did not fall, but swung back into my legs. The wood struck the right leg, dislodging that foot from the trunk, and the spur penetrated my left boot, punching a neat hole in the ankle. Thanks!
Ever notice how folks like to sharpen chainsaws on the tailgate of the pickup? Using one hand to hold the file doesn't allow enough power or control compared to anchoring the saw, then using both hands on the file. Sometimes these saws have backsloped teeth, taking very fine powder, rather than a nice sized chip out of the wood. Guess who gets to use dull saws filed with this 'quickie' touch-up filing method?
To make it easier for the ground crew to avoid learning to tie or untie knots, I often run into situations where the lowering line has an unlocking, aluminum biner affixed to the end of the lowering line with an ax knot. I remove it, then deal with repeated questions as to whether I 'want' a biner on the end of the line.
A pet peeve is when instructions are received to block down trunks in fireplace length pieces, rather than in doubles, triples, or even ten footers. The shortest amount of time in the tree is the best way, as long as the pieces will fit in the drop zone. Why stand in spurs, laboriously cutting wood that the ground crew should be cutting after it hits the ground? Usually, it's because the ground crew is short handed, because the job is being done cheaply, rather than efficiently.
To prolong the life of the 020's some company policy is to send the saw down early, and haul up an 036 to cut the 10-16" pieces. The preferred option is the one with the most control, which is usually the smaller saw, not a heavier one which can't be used one-handed in a pinch.
When limbing a stem all the way up to it's tip prior to removal, it flexes quite a bit as the climber gets out onto 4" or smaller diameter wood. Why on earth does an inexperienced groundworker think he needs to run underneath to grab the last few small branches, right when the climber is getting ready to knock the top out?
When pruning a tree way in the backyard where a zipline is the perfect labor-saving device, guess who has never heard of the technique, or has no slings?
Oftentimes, I'm called in to wreck out a big tree. Guess why there are no wedges, no ax, no peavy on the job? This is logging, folks!
Can anybody think of any other simple things that ought to be standard operating procedure?
As a freelancer, I run into arborists with quite a range of services. Some think nothing of topping off trees 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, or even 3/4th of the way down. It's a matter of continual amazement. The first few times I sub out to a new arborist, the simple things don't always turn out to be so simple.
Twice in one week, I've heard, Won't top trees? You're fired !
Some make a big production of tying a scarf around their head because of the hot weather coming up that day, and wonder why they are reminded by some stupid climber that hardhats are a legal requirement.
When instructing a recalcitrant groundie that the chainsaw should be sent up with the bar pointing downward, and with the lanyard free, so it can be attached it to the belt before untying the knot from the handle, his complaint was: Why can't we do it MY way?
Last week, a new Figure 8 owner had too much tension on the letdown line, and the piece did not fall, but swung back into my legs. The wood struck the right leg, dislodging that foot from the trunk, and the spur penetrated my left boot, punching a neat hole in the ankle. Thanks!
Ever notice how folks like to sharpen chainsaws on the tailgate of the pickup? Using one hand to hold the file doesn't allow enough power or control compared to anchoring the saw, then using both hands on the file. Sometimes these saws have backsloped teeth, taking very fine powder, rather than a nice sized chip out of the wood. Guess who gets to use dull saws filed with this 'quickie' touch-up filing method?
To make it easier for the ground crew to avoid learning to tie or untie knots, I often run into situations where the lowering line has an unlocking, aluminum biner affixed to the end of the lowering line with an ax knot. I remove it, then deal with repeated questions as to whether I 'want' a biner on the end of the line.
A pet peeve is when instructions are received to block down trunks in fireplace length pieces, rather than in doubles, triples, or even ten footers. The shortest amount of time in the tree is the best way, as long as the pieces will fit in the drop zone. Why stand in spurs, laboriously cutting wood that the ground crew should be cutting after it hits the ground? Usually, it's because the ground crew is short handed, because the job is being done cheaply, rather than efficiently.
To prolong the life of the 020's some company policy is to send the saw down early, and haul up an 036 to cut the 10-16" pieces. The preferred option is the one with the most control, which is usually the smaller saw, not a heavier one which can't be used one-handed in a pinch.
When limbing a stem all the way up to it's tip prior to removal, it flexes quite a bit as the climber gets out onto 4" or smaller diameter wood. Why on earth does an inexperienced groundworker think he needs to run underneath to grab the last few small branches, right when the climber is getting ready to knock the top out?
When pruning a tree way in the backyard where a zipline is the perfect labor-saving device, guess who has never heard of the technique, or has no slings?
Oftentimes, I'm called in to wreck out a big tree. Guess why there are no wedges, no ax, no peavy on the job? This is logging, folks!
Can anybody think of any other simple things that ought to be standard operating procedure?
