Re: \"Wind thinning\" on PNW conifers
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I think arborists get hung up on the rhetoric of topping in some cases - the best way to reduce the hazard level of an urban conifer in the PNW, especially a newly exposed tree, is to top it. Call it a reduction or whatever you want, but you're topping it. You come back 5 years later, and maybe remove it, but more than likely, re-top it, and move on. No big deal. I can see some of these statistical approaches to thinning working in forestry applications, like reducing windthrow on cutblock edges or something, or maybe on open grown trees that have new targets. I'm all ears though. .
I get more requests to thin conifer canopies for light than for wind. i.e. "I can't grow tomatoes in the back yard because the front yard row of firs blocks the sun. Can you thin them because I've heard topping is bad. . ." Not to de-rail the thread, but you've got to top the trees or move to a sunnier spot.
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Good post Jeff. I've worked for companies that sell thinning for light, what a waste of time and money.
Study of wind pruning effectiveness in forestry.
This study (relevant portion at p205) notes that crown modification reduced windthrow around logging cutblocks by an average of 40%. It also says that no increased mortality was noted for three years, then in some places a slight increase was noted in the fourth year. Probably not statistically significant.
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Gord,
Why do you think that thinning for light is a waste?
Is it that you don't get more light, or that it is maintenance work?
Four years is way to short to measure mortality or disease.
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Water-front Doug-fir repeatedly topped for view. I don't know how large of an original topping cut, or how many times this was topped. I can say that it was a larger diameter top to the spar at the time of removal. The decayed wood was able to be scooped out by hand.
I don't have a picture of a topped hemlock we removed from the people's deck, just short of their house. They had it topped for "safety".
I can see that some would say that if a tree is healthy, it can withstand a (arbitrarily stated) 4-8" topping/ heading cut. This happens with storm damage all the time, right? Don't we deal with trees that are typically is nutrient-stripped, soil compacted, abnormally watered, root damaged areas all the time. Opportunistic decay organisms are just waiting to get at a stressed tree that is further stressed.
What about less decay-resistant trees like hemlock?
For those that say that it is just a matter of re-topping, are you just figuring that it is the HO's responsibility to have this continue? Sort of saying that as long as the HO (and any future HO's) continues to have the damaging work done, its okay?
Where would one draw the line for how much/ how large to top on which species? 2", 4", 6", no hemlocks, 25% canopy loss.