Who uses a cambium saver with SRT

southsoundtree

southsoundtree

Been here much more than a while
Location
Olympia, WA
I have used a leather cambium saver with SRT in the past. Unfortunately, with the lack of built in clip-in loop, somehow I have come up missing both that I have bought. Wondering who else uses one to avoid the little back and forth friction at the top crotch for tree and rope protection.

If I were to get an isolated crotch, I would think about using a ring and ring friction saver to preserve my rope and tree.

Seems like a downside of SRT is that the same section of the rope can be worn over a crotch.
 
leather tube is awesome for SRT. I have to figure out a slick way to thread the rope into the thing though. That can be a pain in the . I dont use it as often as I should because of its being difficult to thread. I have been using it for rigging too! one piece of gear that its okay to switch between rigging and climbing.
 
If I choose an SRT TIP in a thin-barked tree or one with sharp bark edges, maybe like red oak, I consider using a FC.

In all of my years of SRT work I haven't seen any more impact on the TIP than polished bark. If I was worried that my rope was going to be compromised by the small movement at the SRT TIP I would choose a different TIP AND a different rope!

In the whole scheme of things the miniscule amount of tree/rope damage isn't something that I worry much about. I do check my rope after every climb, especially after climbing where I might expect a little abrasion...so far, after years of SRT, I don't see an issue.
 
[ QUOTE ]
leather tube is awesome for SRT. I have to figure out a slick way to thread the rope into the thing though. That can be a pain in the . I dont use it as often as I should because of its being difficult to thread. I have been using it for rigging too! one piece of gear that its okay to switch between rigging and climbing.

[/ QUOTE ]

How do you mean "thread the rope".

I use a slip knot below the LCS when pulling it into place. When it is in the crotch, I pull the both sides of the rope to release the slip knot. Then, I keep some tension on both sides of the line, if necessary, to keep the LCS in place until the rope is fully installed.

I know to punch a little hole and tie a clip-in loop to the next one I buy. Why didn't I do this after the first one went missing? Twice burned, third time shy.
 
[ QUOTE ]
... All SRT here ....no friction saver ... the throw line damages more bark than my climb line ever would ..

[/ QUOTE ]

Gotta agree there!!! After checking many a SRT TIP, it always bothers me, the damage found is usually from the throwline. Compared to it's diameter there's a lot more load per square inch than any rope, especially bad with the sawing motion when isolating a TIP. It seems to act a little like a cable saw. Sure like someone to come up with a solution for that. Yet another good reason to use SRT and NOT isolate the TIP.
 
I'm not sure I see why using SRT would avoid the throwline damage... or do you mean something different? I'm pretty sure most of the damage happens when the throwline is weighted with a rope.
 
A mini LCS or piece of plastic tubing would work if throwline damage is a concern. The fiber reinforced tubing for high pressure water can be bought by the foot at the big box borgs. Boil it or use a hot air gun to give it a U shape.

In the end though, is it necessary? Is the damage that sever? The TL damage that I've seen has never been bad enough for me to think that it has a bad long term effect.
 
I bought a leather CS and tried setting it the other day. It was treetarded. I know they set easily, but only (it seems) in wide open unions. I like the idea of using them for rigging. Leave it to Bing to figure that out!
 
[ QUOTE ]
I'm not sure I see why using SRT would avoid the throwline damage... or do you mean something different? I'm pretty sure most of the damage happens when the throwline is weighted with a rope.

[/ QUOTE ]

Oh, don't get me wrong, I do agree - "damage happens when the throwline is weighted with a rope". That's true for SRT or DdRT. I could be wrong but it <u>seems</u> that 'sawing' the throwline back &amp; forth when isolating causes the most damage. With SRT you don't HAVE to isolate ... that's all I'm saying.

[ QUOTE ]

... The TL damage that I've seen has never been bad enough for me to think that it has a bad long term effect.

[/ QUOTE ]

Now, that is encouraging!!!
 
Depends on the tree and the line. Medium to thick bark tree with a static line, no worries. Trees with very thin bark and a line with some bounce, a rope sleeve may be a good idea. I prefer the Dan House rope sleeves which New Tribe sells.

At work I almost always SRT up to a choked off TIP, which makes it a non-issue.
 
Part of the concern is the concentrated wear on one part of the rope. My Poison Hyvee has had limited use, but one spot is fuzzed. I'm guessing it is from the rope sawing back and forth a little bit. I'd had to go through ropes at an unnecessarily fast rate due to concentrate wear. Does any one else see concentrated wear from SRT on their ropes?
 
Suprisingly I haven't glazed rope with the leather tube. it is miles better than straight bark, im sure not as good as a pulley though. I've been amazed at how the leather tube has not disinigrated with the loads I've put on it. Its great for remote installing and then using it with the GRCS to do removals from the ground. Ive done this dry crotching and destroyed double braid rope in one go.
 
Sean,

FWIW I've climbed on Tachyon, KMIII and Fly for the most part. I see some scuffs or chafes but nothing that has ever concerned me.

Maybe you can go back to your TIP the next time you're in a rough bark tree to see if there is any chafing before you descend.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Sean,

FWIW I've climbed on Tachyon, KMIII and Fly for the most part. I see some scuffs or chafes but nothing that has ever concerned me.

Maybe you can go back to your TIP the next time you're in a rough bark tree to see if there is any chafing before you descend.

[/ QUOTE ]

That's a good idea. It quite possible that the abrasion is from something else, though I can't figure what. I use a ropebag all the time, so it isn't likely something that occurred while stowed in the truck, but could have been. Don't think I brushed it with my handsaw ever.

Its minor. I just love climbing SRT and would hate to find out that you go through ropes fast, though it would be worth it. Rather put that money toward a Uni, but other business expenses first.
 
OK I have a friend, and I use that term loosely, who is sending me a Unicender to try out. I still have no interest in ropewalking cuz it looks sorta gay but I'll be asking a lot of questions about working with it over the next month.

Had a new one a while back, Jared was installing a radio antenna for a guy using my Velocity and it got into a sharp gutter... kinda bad spot too, rope was a month or two old.
So watch them gutters y'all.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I've seen my rope rub on a lateral branch that I was under. The rope makes a lateral rub or scrape that can fuzz things up too.

[/ QUOTE ]

May be off topic(?) but this is a great point. One of the biggest dangers in rope access, high-rise window washing, etc. is fixed ropes against sharp or jagged surfaces.

Arborists usually think about the rope moving, as it would in DdRT, so we don't think to worry as much about continuous scraping on one spot. If we're gonna work off of SRT we gotta learn to look for these things.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom