What is the benefit or reason of a static rope for srt?

Each stitch is two threads, the bobbin thread on bottom, and the top thread. So in theory it's 20# per stitch but you have to derate due to the bend of the two threads. Not that very different from rope and knots.
 
ahhh ok gotcha. Also, it seems reasonable to match the thread with the material. What about the types of fibers that are abrasive to themselves? Umm...is it technora? Maybe there are others?

Side question-Will a conventional seeing machine handle 10# thread? Or more?
 
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No. 69 is really the max my machine can handle... I've managed to do some work that turned out ok with #92, but I mostly use a singer treadle and will turn the wheel by hand for the tough stuff.
 
Worthaug said:
True static lines are great for long ascents but are not recommend for Stationary Rope Work Positioning because the lack of elongation during a fall could put unwanted forces on the tie in point and the climber. Poison Ivy (one of many colors offered by Yale in their 11.7 mm double braid family) offers all the benefits to an SRWP/ Rope Wrench user, low elongation (helps with efficient ascents), dynamic properties (cover and core are both braided so that some safety elongation is built into it), firm and round (works great with ascenders), and great hand (grip, knot-ability, etc.).
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Reed hits the nail on the head....my fav ropes love them all
 
swingdude said:
Reed hits the nail on the head....my fav ropes love them all
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Hello there swing dude. I really like my PI. Worthaug also suggested the kernmaster and in another thread he was talking highly of cougar so....I just ordered both to keep in my arsenal.why so many? I had an idea the other day but I haven't worked it out yet...but here is the theory...your pruning a spread out tree and you need to go around the outer edges of the tree basically. Ascend the tree via a single line. Get to your high point and tie an anchor in the top...maybe use one of those cubes...you can have the other lines sent up to you and connect them all to the cube. Throw the extra lines out in the directions you will need to be working in. Then you can desend down the line you are alread tied into in whichever direction suits the situation best. U work out whatever is in your reach from that line(maintaining "good" angles) once you're done there move over and attach to the next line( maybe the ground man flips it to you or something) and you could work from the bottom up...once you're up again you could use that same line and work top down in another "section" then move over again and work bottom up on the next rope. Ill have to figure out how to set the anchor up so I could retrive it from the ground if I need to. 3 or 4 ropes to pull out through a running bowline in that situation is going to be ALOT of friction.
 
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