Very tall tree access

C

climberizer

Ok as the title suggests i'm looking for any tips for accessing very tall trees 60m+ for recreational purposes.

I've done some tall tree access stuff in the past but it never hurts to ask for any hints or tips.

The basic plan, use big shot or air cannon to get a throw line up then pull through a light pull line then finally pull the access (SRT) line up, and hopefully down.

Issues to be overcome

I'm not going to buy 200m of light weight access line so i guess there might have to be some joining of access lines. I've used rings for this and tied a scafold knots (the same as the legs of the VT prussic) any safer methods of joining lines would be appreciated.

It gets very hard to pull an access line 75-85m up a tree so the lighter the access line the better, an intermediate pull line has worked in the past i've used 6mm polyprop (cheap and easy) again any tips here would be great.

It's very difficult to confirm what your access line is actually set on at these heights, so i think its wise to have some sort of shock absorbing base tie in set up, along the lines of a snake anchor but i feel that at 2kn the snake anchor may not be set sensitive enough for this purpose.

Its tempting to use the very light weight and ultra static spectraspeed but this may not be the safest access line to use if here is a slight miss calculation in setting the line.

Cheers
 
You should repost in the rec forum. Techniques for super tall tree are the same for moderate height trees. There are certain considerations unique to tall trees but the majority of the technique follow the fundamentals that climbers use for any height trees.
-AJ
 
Maybe have powerful binocs or a telescope handy on the day to try to inspect the tie-in point from the ground?

Adding sections to an air canon or "spud gun" to allow more air at lower pressure for more power to throw a heavier throw ball capable of falling all the way back down without issue while still pulling a strong Zing-It type of throw line.

Maybe setting up a 3 to 1 mechanical advantage system at a nearby tree to make it easier to pull in a heavier weight, more reliable climbing line?

Probably more trouble than it's worth, but trying to install what I think is called a "Pulley Saver" at the top of the tree, to try to reduce friction when pulling the rope in. This might require isolation of one of the branches, though.

That's about all I've got.

Tim
 
Just a heads up, any rope made for tree climbing in the the 11-12mmm range is going to be relatively easy to install in a tall tree, there's no problem pulling it up. Very low stretch Dyneema throwlines like Zing-It or its many equivalents are best for installing a line in a tree when you have a long pull. Many climber's favor 10mm Sterling HTP for tall tree access, any thing less diameter is not going to work with any of the hardware typically used for long SRT ascents or descents. I know some climbers who use 9mm EZ-Bend (caving rope) for tall stuff but personally 10mm is as small as I go in trees. You're not looking to build shock absorption into your system (you mentioned a shock absorbing base anchor), stretch works against you in tree climbing. I'm a concerned that you lack fundamental knowledge in theory and best practices in tree climbing, especially the most challenging trees that you seem to be talking about, what's your experience?
-AJ
 
climberizer said:
It's very difficult to confirm what your access line is actually set on at these heights, so i think its wise to have some sort of shock absorbing base tie in set up, along the lines of a snake anchor but i feel that at 2kn the snake anchor may not be set sensitive enough for this purpose.
Click to expand...

Even on the tallest trees in the world you're initial setting is going to be rarely higher than 50 meters. As TimBr mentioned you should be able to verify your setting with binoculars. there's more to it than that but you should be setting your rope with strong confidence that it's not going to break out or that if it does the rope is over multiple substantial limbs to protect you.
-AJ
 
First off thanks for the replys.

moss said:
Many climber's favor 10mm Sterling HTP for tall tree access-AJ
Click to expand...

great cause that's what i have on the way



moss said:
You're not looking to build shock absorption into your system (you mentioned a shock absorbing base anchor), stretch works against you in tree climbing-AJ
Click to expand...

Yes stretch is a pain in the butt, however shock absorbing in case of a slip or slight issue in the high point i feel is well worth considering. for instance each of the "snake anchors" sewn sections are rated to break at 2kn, this is "shock" absorption without adding stretch



moss said:
I'm a concerned that you lack fundamental knowledge in theory and best practices in tree climbing, especially the most challenging trees that you seem to be talking about, what's your experience?
-AJ
Click to expand...

appreciate the concern, 15 years in the industry. been away from climbing scene for a few years and just starting the conversation and trying to pick up some new ideas
 
moss said:
Even on the tallest trees in the world you're initial setting is going to be rarely higher than 50 meters. As TimBr mentioned you should be able to verify your setting with binoculars. there's more to it than that but you should be setting your rope with strong confidence that it's not going to break out or that if it does the rope is over multiple substantial limbs to protect you.
-AJ
Click to expand...

Yes i fully agree that confirming where the line is set is vital but none the less difficult on trees with a decent amount of foliage blocking vision, i'm not suggesting a shoot and hope approach, apologies if i gave that impression.
 
climberizer said:
Yes i fully agree that confirming where the line is set is vital but none the less difficult on trees with a decent amount of foliage blocking vision, i'm not suggesting a shoot and hope approach, apologies if i gave that impression.
Click to expand...

A high-end quad copter with a built-in camera capable of transmitting a live video feed down to the operator would be perfect for this type of inspection work. It could double as a cinematography tool to document the climb once it is underway.

Tim
 
Hey, Sean! What did you use to launch this 4 oz. throw weight 175 into the air, if you can recall? Was it a Big Shot or an APTA? That is really amazing no matter how it was done.

Tim
 
Here is a list of my gear for rigging big trees:

Horton Legend HD175 crossbow.
Homemade fiberglass bolts constructed from fiberglass fence posts that I buy from the local feed store.
Medium-size saltwater spinning reel loaded with 50lb test spectra Tuffline and mounted on the crossbow.
Binoculars.
600' of dynaglide haul line.
600' of Escalator or 10mm HTP.

I also bend shorter lengths of rope together if they are not long enough.
I use a variety of basal anchor systems, all of which are set up so that the climber can be lowered in the event that they are injured.
The cardinal rule is to always check you TIP with the binoculars to make sure you are over something strong -one big limb is ok, but I usually go for multiple big limbs just to spread out the force.
 
Forgot to mention that I use the yellow spectra Tuffline because it is easier to see with binoculars. The green stuff really blends in.
And a cube for the haul line.
 
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