using a biner on rigging line like a choker

treemaninmo

treemaninmo

Location
bolivar mo
does anyone do this and is this acceptable?
i know there is the potential for side loading but the guy i work with was doing that and it seems way faster than tying everything any thoughts? thanx and climb safe
GOD BLESS
 
Seems like a prussic loop of tech cord would be better to clip to, after double wrap around the limb.

I'd be concerned about it with targets below and limbs of any size. Never a person below!

I've heard of people using a locking snap.

I don't do it.


You can girth hitch a sling and clip the sling. This is what I do.
 
I use webbing to choke the limb to be removed, then, attach the webbing to a carabiner which is attached to a lowering line. I learned this as knotless rigging through an article written by Norm Hall in Arborist News.

I prefer not to use a carabiner as a terminating knot in the scenario as described. There are safer options. (This sounds like TD doesn't it?)

Joe
 
Thats a good one , brother !! ive been thinking of getting a few of the biners with the corner part for slings and then i could do what you are saying.
thank you Joe
thats whats great about the buzz this is how our industry grows in knowledge and safety
 
On larger diameter limbs( large enough you are not trying to wrap the carabiner around them) that are loaded statically I'll use this technique. Especially on conifers where a lot of limbs ned to flow gracefully to the ground.

A splice on the rigging line is a nice addition and a steel carabiner a must in my book.

The other options mentioned are excellent as well. But in the proper circumstances just a carabiner will work effectively.

Tony
 
I havent tied a knot in some time. All rigging done with a spliced eye and steel biner. Depending on size of limb I will use a marl or two or three then clip the biner on the rope. Seems to be working well for the last few years.
 
alright guys what i did yesterday on a removal was ,used a fishermans to hold my omega , then used a sling to girth hitch the pieces worked like a charm and way faster than tying like i am used to.

that allows the biner tyo be loaded the way they are designed to be used.
thanks guys for all your help
 
[ QUOTE ]
alright guys what i did yesterday on a removal was ,used a fishermans to hold my omega , then used a sling to girth hitch the pieces worked like a charm and way faster than tying like i am used to.

that allows the biner tyo be loaded the way they are designed to be used.
thanks guys for all your help

[/ QUOTE ]

get that rope spliced man. we use knotless rigging here at treecareinc and it makes things go alot faster. i hate having to run and untie half hitch running bowlines when there is better knotless rigging gear to be had out there. if you use stitched webbing slings and a rope with eyes splice it makes for faster work. your groundies will save precious seconds untying ropes.

i have to boast, i am lighting fast when it comes to untying bowlines on the ground :P
 
Choking a running bowline assures that no matter where the choke is tied while its in the tree it will ALWAYS be tucked under the log when it hits the deck!

Using slings to choke keeps the snap up in the air and the sling is easier to unchoke.

In one of my rigging lines I have a long eye splice. This allows me to girth hitch a heavy steel rigging oval on. Then I can clip as many biners with slings to the oval for bouquets of limbs or multiple pieces.
 
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