Ultralight rope possibilities...

I used to ride a motorcycle. When I asked a friend about an inexpensive helmet, he replied, "you should buy a $10 helmet for a $10 head".

The moral of the story is you are taking your life into your hands by climbing single-rope with minimal strength rope. Even the Mammut site says this about their Glacier line: "Under no circumstances to be used as a Single Rope for mountaineering or rock climbing!". I imagine you won't take any large whippers if only Tree climbing, so you may feel comfortable with this.

Using 9mm HTP is minimal for climbing (TS lists this as "Personal Escape"). Ryan and Richard suggested to try using amsteel as the back side of the ascent line, which would reduce your weight. As Richard said, you may find it a bit sobering to use Sterling Power Cord. It's only 5.9mm, but has an MBS of 4429lb (we had this discussion already a few months ago). I use it and have some in my hand right now and it's only about the thickness of a pencil...

Climb safe !
-Michael
 
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... Another thing he does to cut weight sometimes is using a long length of small amsteel as the back side of the ascent line. He says it is terrifying to look at because of how small it is, but it works good.

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Sorry but I have to post another video after reading your comment. I've been hiking into some areas and traveling and try to cut down on the weight when I can as well. In this case I have 200' of fly, (it is a little stretchy but also light) I then use 160' of Sterling 5.9mm power cord on the other side of a base anchor. You could never climb on it but it works for the other side of the base anchor.
This tree is 193' tall, 156' to the first branch and 175' TIP and in the tropics of Costa Rica.



at time 1:51 and I think the link will take you there I'm pretty high, looking down into the the jungle below and looking at that 5.9mm line knowing my life is suspended on it. Makes you pucker a little.

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Holy crap what an awesome tree!!!! I cant believe how skinny, tall, and branchless it is! The exposure must feel insane!
 
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I think he is referring to the basal anchor side of your ascent line (Ryan can correct me if I'm wrong).

New England's "The Fly" is pretty light rope. I carried a hank of it with me in a back pack when I traveled to CA and OR.

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Basal anchor? Is this an SRT term? Using deductive reasoning I would guess it is the part of the rope that is anchored at the base of the tree, goes up to your chosen branch, and is tied to your climbing line. In other words, it holds all of your weight and if it breaks you die.

If I am right, AMSTEEL ARE YOU CRAZY?
 
I can't find the reference but I looked into the Samson AmSteel Micro Rigging Line for use with redirects. It is strong and light two great qualities for the application we are discussing........problem I discovered and anyone hanging there life on this might want to check it out further, is the knotability and not that it will not hold a knot but it suffers a massive strength loss when it is knotted. Now if you can use it with only spliced ends I suppose it would be good to go. The power cord on the other hand is built for anchors and support, suggested 3x3 double fishermans if end to end connected or I use and anchor hitch and a screw link. I find it easy to carry and gets me where I want to go without carrying a second line. But it is NOT 1/2in or 5400# as per ANSI standard so you won't get paid if you use it.
But you are right, 5.9mm looks pretty small when your high in a tree and it is your life on that line and it is taking 100% of your weight.
 
At New England grows we were a hundred ft up in the Boston convention center over a concrete floor. Totally unnerving, nothing around you. Here's the view at the bottom of the picture is a huge walkway. You can see all the way to the back thru all the dividers. Weird
 

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I used to ride a motorcycle. When I asked a friend about an inexpensive helmet, he replied, "you should buy a $10 helmet for a $10 head".

The moral of the story is you are taking your life into your hands by climbing single-rope with minimal strength rope. Even the Mammut site says this about their Glacier line: "Under no circumstances to be used as a Single Rope for mountaineering or rock climbing!". I imagine you won't take any large whippers if only Tree climbing, so you may feel comfortable with this.

Using 9mm HTP is minimal for climbing (TS lists this as "Personal Escape"). Ryan and Richard suggested to try using amsteel as the back side of the ascent line, which would reduce your weight. As Richard said, you may find it a bit sobering to use Sterling Power Cord. It's only 5.9mm, but has an MBS of 4429lb (we had this discussion already a few months ago). I use it and have some in my hand right now and it's only about the thickness of a pencil...

Climb safe !
-Michael

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Do you by any chance have a link to that discussion?

And Macswan, ur pic didn't work.
 
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I can't find the reference but I looked into the Samson AmSteel Micro Rigging Line for use with redirects. It is strong and light two great qualities for the application we are discussing........problem I discovered and anyone hanging there life on this might want to check it out further, is the knotability and not that it will not hold a knot but it suffers a massive strength loss when it is knotted. Now if you can use it with only spliced ends I suppose it would be good to go. The power cord on the other hand is built for anchors and support, suggested 3x3 double fishermans if end to end connected or I use and anchor hitch and a screw link. I find it easy to carry and gets me where I want to go without carrying a second line. But it is NOT 1/2in or 5400# as per ANSI standard so you won't get paid if you use it.
But you are right, 5.9mm looks pretty small when your high in a tree and it is your life on that line and it is taking 100% of your weight.

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Yoyoman, so before I start getting any crazy ideas I need to verify once more that 5.9mm (.25") amsteel is being used as the rope that anchors at the base and up to the end of your climbing line in the canopy and is the ONLY rope stopping your climbing line (and your body) from falling out of the tree?
 
FluffyFish,
I'm using sterling power cord and not the amsteel and yes, in that video, 160+ above the ground, if I cut that cord, a link broke, a knot came loose, base anchor failed, I would free fall to my certain death. Probably being chased by bees all the way down
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P.S. Just remember, 160+ feet is JUST a number, it could be the same outcome at 50 feet.
 
As I said, double it, and now you're good to go

It says don't use it single. I would if I needed too on easy terrain. When we simul climb its best to be close together to communicate.

This rope will be a key part of an ultralight kit for the evolution traverse. I will no doubt use it as a single line at times.
 
I have 10mm Sterling HTP, which I find to be very static. Great for ascent, but I wouldn't like climbing on it. I also have a 12mm Yale kernmaster. That has a much friendlier feel for ascending and climbing - some stretch and a more supple feel. If you are looking for one rope for climbing AND ascending, I think the kernmaster or the New England platinum would be better choices.
If you are climbing with mechanical devices your choice may be different than climbing with friction knots. In tree climbing, falls are the exception in a good climb, not the norm, as opposed to rock climbing where a fall is just part of the game.
You can also ascend just fine on a rope like Samson's velocity or Yale's blaze (two 11mm diameter lines) as well as climb on those, and the 24 strand double braid lines are good for mechanical devices, too.
There are lots of ways to accomplish the same thing in climbing; you have to choose which factors are most important to you. It's best if you can climb with others and test out their ropes before you buy, but any of the advice here is good. Cheers, Rebecca
 
I appreciate all of the help guys (and gals!). My main reason for wanting a superlight rope is so I can go touring on my road bike and camp in the trees instead of sleeping on the ground. I think my new rope is going to be 150' feet of something in the 10-11mm range. Then I am going to try getting ahold of 30' of 9mm combined with 40 feet of amsteel for a superultralight way to treecamp while touring (even if I can't climb very high).

But after watching all of the videos I am getting curious about other forms of climbing. I tested a few different techniques and a climbing convention here in the cities and I remember thinking, "I HAVE TO REMEMBER THAT TECHNIQUE!" but I don't remember any of it.

Do you guys have any recommendations on a good starting point to learn about prusik cords (sizes, types, etc) and how they work with specific types of ropes?
 
A couple more videos for you.

Both of these comments are links to the videos.

The lightest one at 7 pounds for everything will get you to 50' without connecting lines like an amsteel together. Using 8,000 pound rated cordage. It could be even lighter.

BUT....If you don't know the risk and limitations in using a rock climbing harness, are not familiar with placing a munter hitch below your friction hitch or understand the advantages and disadvantages of a canopy anchor and base anchor and how to set them..............
At any rate I'm not here to suggest what is appropriate for individual climbers.

In short...I would not want to see someone get in over their head trying something they saw on You Tube. That's another thread though.
It goes unsaid, be careful, I have been a first responder to a climber after a 40' fall. It can happen on a blakes hitch or from the using a simple lanyard or a common knot or an unconventional system.








Compact Climbing System for Travel, 7 pounds total or less

This is a system designed for climbing while traveling using inexpensive components and weighting a total of 7 pounds. It is capable of 50' SRT climbs, DdRT, 2:1, 3:1 RAD's and 6:1 mechanical advantage, positioning lanyard capable, with a total cost including foot ascender, saddle and everything else for less than what I paid just for my CELanyard. It has limitations, is designed for easy travel and low cost in case of loss. On a recent trip to Argentina I was able to see things, views, people watch and make new friends that would not be possible without this system. Effective for inexpensive build of 3:1 RAD's and 6:1 MA. Teaser demo of the up coming MagThrowBagDotCom traverse system
 
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Do you guys have any recommendations on a good starting point to learn about prusik cords (sizes, types, etc) and how they work with specific types of ropes?

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There is a current thread
Favorite hitch for SRT ascent?

??????????? and many more. Enjoy
 
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I appreciate all of the help guys (and gals!). My main reason for wanting a superlight rope is so I can go touring on my road bike and camp in the trees...

Do you guys have any recommendations on a good starting point to learn about prusik cords (sizes, types, etc) and how they work with specific types of ropes?

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Fish, just keep in mind that certain configurations can be set up that don't require ALL of your ropes being suitable for life support.

I think the simplest, lightest, most compact combination for what YOU want to do in your description is to use a rope that is about 10' longer than your desired Tie In Point height.

Use your throw line to isolate the TIP. Tie the throw line to the end of the climb line using a pile hitch. As you are pulling up the climb line, stop pulling when it's just about to leave the ground and tie a delta screw link onto the bitter end of the climb line. Capture the throw line in the delta link, tighten to proper spec, and continue pulling.

This will create a choked system that can even be relocated in the crown if desired. Obviously lanyard in while relocating.

When you initially leave the ground, bring your throw line with you in a small pouch. Before you descend from the crown, tie the throw line to the delta link. As long as the throw line stays parallel to the climb line during descent, you will have a silky smooth retrieval by pulling down on it to release the choke and bring it down.

I hope that made sense.

Make sure your Delta Link is rated and not some hardware store paper clip.

Have fun!
 
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Fish, just keep in mind that certain configurations can be set up that don't require ALL of your ropes being suitable for life support.

I think the simplest, lightest, most compact combination for what YOU want to do in your description is to use a rope that is about 10' longer than your desired Tie In Point height.

Use your throw line to isolate the TIP. Tie the throw line to the end of the climb line using a pile hitch. As you are pulling up the climb line, stop pulling when it's just about to leave the ground and tie a delta screw link onto the bitter end of the climb line. Capture the throw line in the delta link, tighten to proper spec, and continue pulling.

This will create a choked system that can even be relocated in the crown if desired. Obviously lanyard in while relocating.

When you initially leave the ground, bring your throw line with you in a small pouch. Before you descend from the crown, tie the throw line to the delta link. As long as the throw line stays parallel to the climb line during descent, you will have a silky smooth retrieval by pulling down on it to release the choke and bring it down.

I hope that made sense.

Make sure your Delta Link is rated and not some hardware store paper clip.

Have fun!

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Eric is giving some good advice here and is how I would address the needs expressed by the OP.
 
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Fish, just keep in mind that certain configurations can be set up that don't require ALL of your ropes being suitable for life support.

I think the simplest, lightest, most compact combination for what YOU want to do in your description is to use a rope that is about 10' longer than your desired Tie In Point height.

Use your throw line to isolate the TIP. Tie the throw line to the end of the climb line using a pile hitch. As you are pulling up the climb line, stop pulling when it's just about to leave the ground and tie a delta screw link onto the bitter end of the climb line. Capture the throw line in the delta link, tighten to proper spec, and continue pulling.

This will create a choked system that can even be relocated in the crown if desired. Obviously lanyard in while relocating.

When you initially leave the ground, bring your throw line with you in a small pouch. Before you descend from the crown, tie the throw line to the delta link. As long as the throw line stays parallel to the climb line during descent, you will have a silky smooth retrieval by pulling down on it to release the choke and bring it down.

I hope that made sense.

Make sure your Delta Link is rated and not some hardware store paper clip.

Have fun!

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I had to read this twice to understand what you were explaining. This is actually the setup I used when I first started climbing trees but I always had a hard time retrieving my rope and I hated fiddling with isolating a specific branch. However, I have learned a few tricks since then to make retrieval much easier. Thank you very much for this post. I will definitely start playing with this system and will likely choose it for my ultralight setup.
 
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There is a current thread
Favorite hitch for SRT ascent?

??????????? and many more. Enjoy

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Yoyoman, thanks for your videos. I am learning a lot from them. I guess what I was originally asking is if there is a book or website that goes through:

1. Some different options of SRT rope ascension such as RADS, ropewrench with foot ascender, other stuff I don't know about? When I read the other threads there are no pictures and just a bunch of words that I don't know the definition to.
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2. Why I should learn DRT (I don't want to!).
 
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