Tying knots with tail weight...

[oceans]

There are numerous ways to tie any knot. I was thinking about the Alpine Butterfly just now, and how the 3-wrap-over-the-hand method is nice with tail weight vs. the double twist method, depending on the amount of tail weight. I got so used to tying it with the double twist, and I feel as though I could benefit from practicing other techniques.

The reason being...when dialing in the exact location of an AB for a static redirect while climbing in a SRWP system, the method I learned might be tougher than necessary. I want to learn a bomber method and nail it like a champ every time.

I also thought of tying a marl and Running Bowline around a large diameter spar. I pull a wingspan+ length of line behind my head and flip it from there. Nobody else I work with does it that way.

What are some other knots such as these? I thought this might offer some good discussion...sharing some tricks that make things more fluid and "artful".

 

[Dblehron]

When I'm negative rigging I pull out more rope then needed, tie a quick slip knot then marl + whatever knot you use, followed by pulling out the slip knot. That's how I was taught, seems easiest to me. If I don't need a marl then I find the tail weight of the rigging line beneficial.

For srt redirects it depends if I want to spread forces out or not. I usually tie a munters (easy to tie one handed) but I don't know if that would be considered a static redirect. I would assume not.

 

[oceans]

Cool tips about the slip knot. I'm working on getting my groundies to know how much tail to leave behind the slip so I have enough to work with after they zing it up. They tie it as a stopper and pull it up to the block while I'm making the next face cut. As one co-worker would say; "The only dangerous amount is not enough!"

I would call the ol' Harold Munter a 'semi-static' redirect technique. It will move to a point, whereas the AB is completely static.

 

[Dblehron]

I'm trying to get groundies just to learn a slip knot... and having someone pull lines for me?! What a luxury that would be. You should see my lats!

I find myself accessing the tree using base ties then switching to a canopy tie every so often now, where before I would stick to strictly basal anchors.

Sorry for the derail. I'm sure someone will have a better reply than I.

 

[oceans]

Another thing I've tried to show them is when to recognize when a spar tip is open for the Running Bowline to stay tied. If they can open the cinch and pull it off the piece they just received, it can stay tied. When they put in the stopper and send it up, I open the RB and slide it over the end. It's actually 2 stopper knots...one in the eye of the Bowline to keep it from unrolling, and another mid-line to hit the block/rings. This is best when tip tying, but it's also a means of keeping them in the game. I do count my blessings for the folks I get to work with on a daily basis. They are very good, and enjoy what we do. We do lots of thumbs up, hang tens, and devil horns throughout the day.

 

[TreeLogic]

Slip knot...12'-15' tail...depending on the spar diameter of course. i always get them to pull the line between the knot and block before sending it up. This is to make sure, directionally, they've tied it the right way.

Alpine Butterfly...I like the 3 wrap method. can be cumbersome to get enough slack and achieve perfect placement but the twisted loop method always leaves me unsure if it's tied correctly.

Bowline (and running bowline)...make loop...rabbit out of the hole, around the tree, and back into the hole...but don't tighten yet. take both legs that exit the hole with one hand and pull them against the standing part using the other hand but still not too tight. now take the teardrop shaped eye at the top and bend it down the standing part. this creates a lock. no matter how loaded the knot gets, bending the teardrop back up releases the knot for easy untying.

 

[GeorgeR]

I like a clove hitch for tying with a weighted tail. Throw a bite of line in the biner then tension, and then the other bite with a little twist and tighten the tail. Once you figure it out it is really fast for midline cinching a biner.

 

[Tony]

Tie yet another slip knot on the working end. Leave about a 12" tail Use it for weight to toss the rope around. When ready to tie the running bowline, pass the tail of the slip knot around the standing part of the line, then put it through the loop of the slip knot and capsize the slip knot. Whaalaa! Running bowline!

Tony

 

[Dblehron]

I imagine that may be slower then the hand twist method. Ill have try it out tomorrow

 

[Tony]

Practice! To each their own. Just a mater of looking cool! Both get the job done.

Tony

 

[oceans]

We all know that looking cool is the most important thing, Tony!

 

[Tony]

Rule #1.

Tony

 

[TreeLogic]

I also thought of tying a marl and Running Bowline around a large diameter spar. I pull a wingspan+ length of line behind my head and flip it from there. Nobody else I work with does it that way.

I've seen some pics of you Eric and you're pretty damned tall! Your wingspan is probably twice that of mine. I may have to double the above-listed method...but I'll give it a try.

 

[oceans]

A bit of added length beyond your wingspan will help. You'll be amazed at how much easier it is to do it this way. After you let the line flip out of your hand, you can say out loud, "Wait for it...", and a little while later the end comes right to you.