Trenching through blue spruce

Merle Nelson said:
This would be a place where it would be good to have a certified arborist - that knows your local trees root system characteristics - do a paid consult. They could tell you how deep in your area with your soil and that tree. Also they could predict area to go under that has least root density to begin with. If you had an interest in this people here probably know reputable folks in your area.
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Sure - I'm in the Ann Arbor / Michigan area. If anyone wants to give a referral, I'd be glad to have someone come out.
 
All of my work is by referral. And I have a list of people from handy person to general contractor to pavement people. It's nice to get straight to the right kind of person.
 
Try some local utility construction outfits. There are a bunch of contractors that do the directional boring but mainly in the utility and communications space. They can do any size product and place it at any depth you choose!
Another option would be to pit bore it. Basically dig pits to your desired depths spaced at 50' (or shorter) and use a pneumatic missile to connect the pits. Missiles, hose and compressors are all readily available at rental companies and make it more of a DIY project. Using this method requires are very careful aim!!!!
Being in Michigan I would also suggest going at a depth deeper than your frost line, especially if your running a water line as well!
Good Luck!!
 
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Had to look up the missle. Now I need one!:LOL:

I already have the compressor for an AirKnife... Every now and then a client will talk about how the contractor "has" to trench through the tree roots. Would be nice to offer that alternative. Will have to see if local rental place has one...
 
Air trenching that deep in clayey soils would be a challenge! Many hours of brutal work

Have you talked with your building inspector yet? There are likely codes that you must abide by no matter how you get the utility line in.

If I were going to run a water line it would be well below frost line and probably sleeved in case it ever breaks.
 
Tom Dunlap said:
Have you talked with your building inspector yet? There are likely codes that you must abide by no matter how you get the utility line in.

If I were going to run a water line it would be well below frost line and probably sleeved in case it ever breaks.
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Maybe next month? The township is shut down for the most part. I know what code requires for electrical - UL-listed pipe, minimum diameter, and distance from surface. Gas, I will be relying on a plumber, and for water.

I wasn't planning on sleeving water - but was going to have it buried at 54". Our frost line is at 48". I like the idea of sleeving. Will ask the boring contractor.

VenasNursery said:
How tall are these spruce?
How far away from the spruce are you trying to put this line in?
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30-35' tall.

As to your second question... the house is about 20' from the trees, and the barn is about 15'. This is just measuring to the dripline, and the trees alternate so there's more space depending on which tree you measure from.


I looked up those pit boring machines - honestly those would be the best - least impact to the soil, except they'd want to bring a digging machine in to do the water line pits. I'm just waiting till next May 1 as everything, obviously, is shut down except "essential" work. Not sure what will happen May 1, but my hope is I can at least get the boring contractor to come out and give me a quote.
 
During a thread on a woodworking forum one person said that there were regs for what could go into the same trench. I don't recall the exact details but there was something about having a vertical and lateral separation of all the utilities.

Take some clear, cropped, well lit pictures of your trees. Use some bright flagging tape on stakes to plot your route.

Attach them to this thread. Don't skimp...and take pics close up. Too often pics don't show close details

Give the tree diameters and distance apart.

Trees can tolerate a HUGE amount of root loss without dying. THe issue is likely going to be stability in winds.
 
You might want to check with your utilities and the municipality/ county/ MD. In most jurisdictions there are permits needed and specific rules about vertical separations in a trench, trace tapes for line locates, what can be put in the same trench and what also can be used for fill in a utility trench too (sand, etc). Where we are, to run a simple electrical line in conduit to say a garage, you need an electrical permit - it's not just a tax - utility trenches and line locates are often entered into mapping software in case they are needed to be located in the future.
Or not, some places are still the wild west (east). You can probably find this info on-line.
(ISA/ ANSI etc. have guidelines though about excavations around trees/ compaction from equipment - most cities now have construction by-laws that require fencing off a certain distance around trees to preserve the roots)
 
ghostice said:
Or not, some places are still the wild west (east).
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We are a mix of wild and not so wild. It's also a rural area, septic and well water, and we just got natural gas. I will be pulling an electrical permit, among others. BUT, it's pretty lax otherwise. I'll still make sure a tracer wire is run with every non-electrical conduit pull.

I'll take some photos tomorrow if it isn't raining or snowing!
 
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