Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Yeah I wondered about that, but couldn't get enough reach with the lanyard on the back. I feel that a harness should have enough overkill built into though. 1st time in 30 years. IMO I think design is being influenced by light weight, which I don't care about, instead of durability. Broke the top handle off my 150. Just glad it didn't hit my ground guys.Bummer. Hope your saw wasn't destroyed to badly. I never trusted that area of the harness for hanging saws, so I always hang my saws from the ring in the rear when flying my TreeMo.
Get the full reach lanyard or build your own.Yeah I wondered about that, but couldn't get enough reach with the lanyard on the back. I feel that a harness should have enough overkill built into though. 1st time in 30 years. IMO I think design is being influenced by light weight, which I don't care about, instead of durability. Broke the top handle off my 150. Just glad it didn't hit my ground guys.
There is. I use a chainsaw bridge from left butt cheek to right butt cheek. I do have to pass the saw behind my back to switch hands with a shorter lanyard. But I’m known to move the lanyard to the hip dee’s if I need max reach with either hand. I rarely use the lower dee’s so there is minimal conflict with the lanyard.I short hang my saw on a shembiner mounted on just the "leather" to avoid abration on the life support webbing, but clip the end of the saw lanyard to my side d for security and max reach. I don't use my side d's for my positioning lanyard, but even if I did, I think there would be plenty of room for the saw lanyard and the positioning lanyard.
The chainsaw bridge is a good idea and all the comments make sense. I am just disappointed that anything would tear off my harness in that time period. After looking more closely there seems to be enough actual material there but the points where there is pressure is small.There is. I use a chainsaw bridge from left butt cheek to right butt cheek. I do have to pass the saw behind my back to switch hands with a shorter lanyard. But I’m known to move the lanyard to the hip dee’s if I need max reach with either hand. I rarely use the lower dee’s so there is minimal conflict with the lanyard.
They don't really tell you though.....
...i dont think that part of the harness is intended to carry a saw!!
Not sure
so better have a look at my saw point????I always used the designated point for it,went to look at info booklet and they mark it for 10kg and should be under the webbing.I’m afraid you’ve used that failed point incorrectly. That area is a saw stow/hitch point and like has been already said, the saw is supposed to attach to the rear.
The failure has arisen from repeated shock loading from the full weight of the saw on an area that is only designed to have the saw stowed on it .
it might have not happened if both rubber and webbing would be above carytool... luckily nobody got hurt
Sorry I am having a hard time trying to post a pic. Anyhow where I clip my saw failed yesterday. Saw feel about 75ft. Harness is about 2 years old. Looks like wear was a factor wasn't obvious though. Just a heads up to all you Tree motion owners.
That's good info. I didn't read the booklet and kind of had a hunch that I should be clipped to the back ring. Its on me, so hopefully this post shows other people to not make the same mistake. Thanks for taking the time to post good info backed by facts.so better have a look at my saw point????I always used the designated point for it,went to look at info booklet and they mark it for 10kg and should be under the webbing.