Today....

I wish they'd explain the methodology for the tests. "tree sap was applied to the rope" doesn't explain much. When I get sap on ropes, it's just on the surface, and usually in a pretty localized spot. It becomes a sticking point for a prusik or whatever, but I struggle to see how that would negatively affect rope strength like they show, since it usually affects such a small portion of the rope, on say just the very outer layer of fibers. Are they just rubbing some sap on a piece of rope and then pulling it? Are they somehow impregnating the core of the rope with sap? The graphs look nice, but honestly it's not telling me much...
 
Some info from Teufelberger on washing ropes - there's been lots of discussion about removing sap etc in past threads. I get sap off with a rag and 99% isopropanol instead of ethanol.
Lots of other questions answered at something they call "Brainbox"
Isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol) is not good for nylon or polyester.
There is a reason ethanol (ethyl alcohol) is used to clean ropes.
 
I soaked some long tiny strands of nylon and polyester rope material in 92% isopropyl alcohol for six weeks, and saw no signs of degradation. A quick wipe to remove some sap doesn't worry me, but I'm careful to keep the need to remove sap to a minimum anyway.

I'm going to get some ethyl alcohol for future use since it appears to be readily available at a reasonable price. Thanks for the heads up info.
 
Isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol) is not good for nylon or polyester.
There is a reason ethanol (ethyl alcohol) is used to clean ropes.
First time I've seen this info - thanks for the heads up. I would love to know the chemical basis for this - why one alchohol might behave differently than another. Ditto for me and the EtOH from now on.

Addenda 1: I have gone back through my older posts and added the following Addenda: "Addenda: New info (to me anyway - 06-Dec-2023) on chemical compatibility of nylon and polyester both to isopropanol indicates it shouldn't be used but use ethanol instead. Thanks to Shadowscape for this. I'll still use isopropanol on metal parts though because it works so well. Teufelberger also only tests ethanol in their rope cleaning tests cited in this thread."

Addenda 2: I wish Teufelberger had stated what ethanol they had used for their test. Ethanol forms a mixture with water that is hard to get more than ~ 95% pure. In the old days benzene used to be used to get the stuff more pure than this (i.e. purified past the eutectic on the phase diagram) but this has been discontinued (now it's cyclohexyl something or other). So if you were to purchase ethanol USP (United States Pharmacopea) 99.5% pure you're probably pretty safe but if you get agricultural grade ethanol, say even 99% pure it will be denatured (so you can't drink it without going blind anyway) with up to 5 - 10% methanol (back to the alcohols problem with nylon and polyester ??) and labelled 200 proof or something. Also agricultural derived ethanol has a whole bunch of other "chemicals" in it (some mighty tasty) so it is not a pure substance. I think I'd tend to use the pure ethanol USP (or BP - British Pharmacopea in the UK) which is 190 proof, absolute alcohol, non-denatured ethanol CAS Number 64-17-S. This'd have good quality control around it.
I also had a look at the Teuf stuff and found that they were kinda OK with washing ropes at 60 degC (yikes) to get rid of toxin from Oak Processionary Moth. All the previous things I've read say to wash ropes only at low temperatures or cold. Interesting way to start the day and thanks again Shadowscape. Cheers
 
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Benzene is a great solvent. I use to keep a gallon on hand all the time, years ago. Nasty stuff for health reasons as it is absorbed through the skin, and you really need to keep your mitts out of the stuff. Federal regulations stepped in and made it almost impossible to get these days unless you go through a chemical supply house.
As stated, ethanol is very expensive above 95%. Has to do with the distillation process. If you want to find a quick source of 95%, go to a liquor store and pick up a bottle of Everclear.
 
A buddy has been after me to try the Salewa Rapace, so I grabbed a pair on Black Friday. I got a few fir removal in on them this week and they are simply one of the nicest boots I have ever climb/worked in, regardless of price. Love these thing! highly recommended.

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A buddy has been after me to try the Salewa Rapace, so I grabbed a pair on Black Friday. I got a few fir removal in on them this week and they are simply one of the nicest boots I have ever climb/worked in, regardless of price. Love these thing! highly recommended.

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I'm almost through my second pair of them and should have ordered a pair that same week price was $224 then. It is back up now.
 
@rico and @oldoakman How are these different from the Mountain Trainers? I love my Mountain Trainers with the exception of the metal lace holder that gets smashed by a foot ascender and breaks off. It looks like they fixed this with the Mountain Trainer 2.
 
A little stiffer sole and more playing in the upper. I don't seem to have the issue with my foot ascender like I did with the mountain trainers. I have a pair of Salewa Raven's waiting that I got for a super price. You have to watch on Amazon for when they clear out for new models.
 
Back on the crane today. We had a couple senescing Cherry trees over the new plants that were decorated by covering the deer fencing with tinsel. We had good hard ground with the colder temps lately so we crossed the leaching field and made it happen. Each pick was put close to the road for the grapple truck. Fun job today!

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I don't mean to clog up the thread with my posts, but fall/winter is a lovely time for fungus in the PNW. This is Dacrymyces chrysospermus/orange witch's butter in my driveway. Small doug fir log, about 5 years old.

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Please, clog away! 204 pages. Everything today from boots to various alcohols. I don't think you are making a dent.
 
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