timber hitch for rigging

hey i just recently moved to the west coast for municipal work
and my lead worker is using a timber hitch as a rigging knot
should i be concerned or can it be used in rigging branches down.i just think of it as a inferior knot. thanks
 
[ QUOTE ]
i just think of it as a inferior knot. thanks

[/ QUOTE ] funny I was always told it will hold more weight than a RB. Course Like Jim says if you don't know how to tie it right you should not use it. Or your ground guys be running for their lives.
 
The timber hitch has a tendancy to 'roll' out when repeatedly loaded and unloaded. Seen it happening after using as an SRT tie off at the base of a tree for ascents. Make sure to use the double half hitch at the end of the wraps.

Others will probably have better suggestions, but if you have the length the Cow hitch is a more dependable knot.

jp
grin.gif
 
I don't like to use the timber hitch, because it takes too much time to tie and untie, as well as its tendency to roll out. I prefer using the cow hitch, running bowline, and clove hitch.
 
Is the TH being used as an anchor for a lowering device or rigging point for a block?

A cow hitch is preferable as long as you have a sling that's long enough.

or is it being used to tie off pieces for lowering?

NEVER! Running bowline and marls are what I use.
 
During a recent meeting with a person I highly admire a statement was made: a "knot is either 100% right, or 100% wrong". A sentiment I totally agree with.

The reason there are many different knots is that there are many different situations. I have experienced the effects of lowering extremely heavy wood on rope. Often times on species like eucalyptus the forces are so great that cambial and bark tissue can become strongly embedded within the knots. If this happens on a running bowline, it can interfer with the ability to untie it. The timberhitch backed up with a marl or half-hitch will never experience that problem.

Many different situations may require the use of more than one knot or technique.

Dave
 
The Timberhitch is as safe or unsafe as any other knot or hitch. It needs to be tied properly, dressed and set.

Its a good hitch to know and use. I dont use it all that often myself, but do on occasion. Its critical that the hitch is seated and in full contact around the wood for the full length of the hitch. Also be sure to wrap the hitch in the proper direction so the twist on the hitch opposes the load direction, so it doesnt roll out.

The timber hitch also retains 90% of the rope strength, whereas the running bowline retains around 65% ? (going from memory on the RB strength loss, someone correct me if Im wrong). This would be due to less amount of sharp bends in the line.

Ive always thought the TH was the coolest hitch due to its simplicity. I think Im gonna start using it more often. I certainly do not think its an inferior hitch.
 
Also because of the way the hitch needs to be spread out around the limb / log / trunk, its not a good hitch for small diameter attachments. I wouldnt use it on anything less than say 18 inches or so.
 
thanks for the input guys. i personally use the running bowline because its faster to tie and untie. and yeah its being used to tie off branches to be lowered. i cant tell a guy thats worked for the city for 33 years what knots to use. being a newbie that is.
 
Another option is to use whoopie or loopie slings to place blocks or port-a-wraps. They are quick to size and are relatively goof-proof.

Some arborists are now going with knot-less rigging! Which would incorporate web slings and Carabiners.

Just some of the alternatives to rigging solutions.
 
If he's been doing it for 33 years, I wouldn't sweat what knots he uses.

I use a timber hitch to anchor a porty or a block sometimes but usually I go with a cow hitch and finish it with a few wraps kinda like a timber hitch.

I tried whoopies for the porty and it's just too much hassle to snug up compared to a simple eye sling. I use a loopie to hang a block pretty often.
 
The timber hitch is an awesome hitch if tied right and applied at the right time. I always make sure I wrap at least around 3\4 of the piece. Ive seen people use it with just a couple of turns around definitely don’t recommend that. Also I wouldn’t tie it close to the end . If it needs to be held that close I would throw a keeper at the end. The same hitch as if you were going to drop crotch . Good luck keep it safe
 
[ QUOTE ]
[...] The same hitch as if you were going to drop crotch . Good luck keep it safe

[/ QUOTE ]

Wait, I thought drop crotching was line clearance methodology for trees directly under lines. I think it was developed by Shigo.
 
[ QUOTE ]
The same hitch as if you were going to drop crotch .

[/ QUOTE ]

I think he means False Crotch, but who knows.

Anit he cute though, can we keep him?
 
[ QUOTE ]


Anit he cute though, can we keep him?

[/ QUOTE ]


Oh, that's all fine and good until you get tired of antagonizing him and THEN who has take care of him... hmmmm?
 
obviously you dont know. a false crotch would be with a pulley being manufactured. drop crotch would be catching it to itself with a rope and a nub.thats the term i was taught for that. thats the problem if you werent so quick to shoot your mouth off with uncalled for comments you would think before you comment
 
blinky i never heard of that one. but then again i never did line clearance i was taught that a drop crotch was when you caught say a top to itself with just a rope and a nub.by running the rope up the front of the tree going around the stalk and over the nub then under the rope and back up across the face of the knotch and tie it off. i will try and research what you said. what would you call what im describeing.i never came accross anybody useing that term and different. thanks for the info.never to late to learn. keep it safe
 

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom