Throw line

Chaplain242 said:
Can’t video on web, but used to see it all the time on magneto ignition systems.
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I'm not saying I don't believe you, in my work we see failure in powder metal gears all the time, we just fail them running high loads against cut steel gears.

Just interested in the cause of failure against a nylon gear. My guess is that sintered parts are brittle and the nylon flexes but the metal breaks?

When it comes to rope cutting into metal, technically if the rope was pure plastic, it's softer than the metal and can't wear it. But real life messes that up. For example:

1) impurities and debris in the rope/string which are harder than the metal (one reason washing ropes is important).

2) Nothing is perfectly smooth, and on the microscopic level, those little peaks are not strong and are susceptible to heat and can be bent over easily (how polishing occurs)

Etc.
 
Elastic and rubber when stretched hard can have their skin become harder than iron. Not sure if it’s available on web but have seen documentaries with felons cutting metal weapons with twisted elastic pulled from their trousers...
 
Chaplain242 said:
Elastic and rubber when stretched hard can have their skin become harder than iron. Not sure if it’s available on web but have seen documentaries with felons cutting metal weapons with twisted elastic pulled from their trousers...
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They might have cut plastic weapons, as cutting plastic with string is a pretty common thing, and plastic shivs made from toothbrushes and the like are also not uncommon... but the only way I can see it being possible to cut metal with something softer than metal is if the softer thing is sufficiently long and the metal is thin enough, and you draw it against the edge. I could see how it might be possible to get local heating which stays at the metal but the string is kept cool because it's only instantaneously in contact with the heat.

I guess it might be possible to cut thin metal by essentially tearing it as well. Think of aluminum foil. It's only easily broken because it's so thin, if you just pull it, it's decently strong, but the second you add a kink in it near an edge you get a stress concentration and it tears super easy.

It's the reason if you're repairing a crack in metal you need to drill out the end of the crack before welding. If the residual stress from a fracture stays around a point concentration, even if you weld the metal back together it will likely crack again starting at the end of the original crack.

Anyway, I guess I'm trying to say its not that it can't be done, but it's not because plastic or rubber ever gets harder than iron.
 
Zing-it has been killing me recently. Barely starting to fuzz and it is tangling almost every time. Have re-stretched 3 times in the past month and no improvement. Perhaps the most annoying thing to deal with at work is a rats nest of throwline. Putting in an order for Dynaglide.
 
RBJtree said:
I like the dynaglide.
I meet a guy a couple weekends ago that was using stiff line. It's apparently only available in Europe. Anybody ever use that? I didn't look at it too closely, but now I wish I had. He really likes it.
I gotta admit, I like the notch bags.
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Stiffline 1,8mm by FTC, it´s awesome.
 
Merle Nelson said:
Then make a throw line spool from threads on TreeBuzz, go through a short learning curve, and almost zero rats nests.

@Serf Life
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I spent way to much time searching with no useful results. Any chance of getting a link to a thread or info on the "throw line spool"?

I started out using #21 braided nylon twine from Memphis Twine, tried several other things, and always went back. I store it in and deploy it from a five gallon bucket. The bucket has a false bottom over a storage compartment that I can reach through an opening in the side of the bucket.
 

Shotline Winder Throwline?

So I have this Shotline Winder, though I can't seem to remember what the actual Throwline is that's on it - Can anyone figure it out for me? The throwline is just the same orange colour as the one in this photo. Thanks
www.treebuzz.com

Picture of the ones TreeStuff sold here....scroll to the top.
 
One of the earlier threads...


throwline reel

Throwline reel Thanks to treemachine, I had to try this out. Not as refined as his, but I can always refine it later. My reel pictured with my repaired big shot that works just fine: http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt356/papacodes/Tarzans%20Tree%20Service/09291631.jpg Fired a shot of...
www.treebuzz.com

Tree_Machine is the handle of the guy who made them and sold them through TS. Only made 300 if I recall. Sold for $75 or something and many people complained about price.
 
"I make money using shotline reels, not manufacturing them. I'd pay a hundred for one, fully decked out, knowing now what a positive impact they have on my business. In the sense of efficiency, swiftness and elimination of frustration with tangles and no more impatience associated with flaking hand over hand hundreds and hundreds of times, just to hope that your next deploy will be tangle-free. You look forward to setting a line. It becomes fun because no part of it is any longer a chore. Setup and breakdown are <u>so</u> fast."




-TM-


That's a well said quote from Tree_Machine. Found it in that last thread listed. All of the pertinent build info is there. I only wish his old youtube videos were still up - 200 feet of line reset for the next deployment in 52 seconds.
 
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