The Snap Cut

Informative discussion on the subject. I have watched several of your videos and been to your site. Very nice work Treemugs! For what is worth I will give you my destructive criticism [emoji38]From a safety standpoint I would highly advise that anyone new to this to make sure they start with shorter logs. Example might be: Pine log 12" in diameter maybe 18" long or whatever the climber can easily handle at first especially when targets are in close proximity. Also I think some examples of what will happen if you don't break it loose would really open ones eyes. My last suggestion would be to drop some chunks on top of other chunks to show how unpredictable it can be. Of course without real obstacles. Maybe traffic cones or buckets as avoidance targets.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Something else to add I saw no mention of in your video, the saw grabber! It is an important note to make especially when making the cuts the way you are showing. If the piece breaks off prematurely with the saw still in the cut (it does happen) it will take the saw with it. In a bucket or lift no big thing, just a 6 or 7 hundred dollar saw crashing to the ground. If climbing you are about to have a hell of a shock (even with a breakaway lanyard). As you stated it will always break at the lower cut depth, which can leave saw kerf on the top which catches the saw chain. A much better and safer practice is to make the top cut first then the lower cut. This sometimes requires you to think backwards making the back side cut first then the front side. But once practiced it is just as natural.
I'm not saying this will happen every time, but once in a career is more than enough for anyone. And it's best not to chance it.
Also you made brief mention of the cuts orientation as it relates to the climber, it important to note small wood will react differently than larger wood (we all probably know that). The only reason I mention it is because the size of the wood may play into your decision on which way, front/back or left/right, you are going to snap. I always hate snapping big wood front back because if something goes wrong it's in your lap, but that's the easiest way to make the cuts!.
 
That's a really good point about making the higher cut first to be a bit safer. I have just always made the lower cut first to keep my saw from getting pinched, but yes, having it get caught in the kerf is much worse than getting it pinched. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Try adding what we call a 'snipe' on your directional side cut. Basically a small face cut (under side seems to work the best) that allows the piece to rock off in that direction. It's one more cut to make but its much easier than a conventional face cut because they don't have to line up or go in very deep.
 
I hate to break the news to ya, but guys out here have been using this cut for decades. When I was taught this cut over 35 years ago (thanks Richard Becker), and it was referred to as a "pressure release cut". Where it is actually really useful is when in non-vertical to near horizontal wood that you don't want to rope off. You cut the downhill side first, cutting upwards, and stopping before it binds on your saw. Then a few inches either above or below, make a cut on the topside that goes a little past the depth of the undercut. Grab the chunk, and pop it upward, and give it a toss. Obviously you don't want to use this technique on longer or heavier chunks, but with shorter, lighter pieces that a man can handle, it can be a very useful cut. Just another cool little trick to have in one's toolbox.
 
Last edited:
I just did snap cut basics in a safety meeting last week. I liked your caution about using with vertical wood first and avoiding strange grain.
The saw snatcher should definitely be covered as it is probably the most likely hazard to the climber, besides losing control of the piece.
I don't think I would add anything else. Maybe an advanced snap cut lesson later on could include things like the snipe for more rotation or snap cuts on horizontal limbs and branches.
Cut and Chuck is the first mode of control in the tree but takes the most practice and time to master.
Your apprentice is a lucky guy, unless you become a screamer when the camera turns off. Keep on educating!
 
My whole point with this video is just touching on the very basics, there are way more things that I didn't mention or address than those that I did. My apprentice just wanted to know how to get started with this cut, he has tried it many times after watching me do it and has gotten frustrated. So hopefully I hit enough of the beats to get him started. Thanks for the feedback fellas!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom