- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
When I've used the Uni in wet weather it works as well or even a little better than any other friction device or hitch that I've used in the same conditions.
Since the Uni doesn't rely on rope on rope friction there are half the variables to account for. The Uni is the same all of the time the rope is what is changing.
Almost any climbing hitch/friction device or lanyard adjuster that I've tried "sucked" during the first few climbs. After I got used to it's personality I changed my mind or technique.
The feedback about the Uni in the rain came from climbers who used my Uni when I loaned it to Rich Hattier to take to Hawaii last year. To be fair, any new or unfamiliar hitch would likely have gotten the same feedback. Once a person dials in a system they understand it's strengths and weaknesses and can adjust their climbing style to meet the conditions.
*****
Something that can't be stressed enough is to be aware of how a friction hitch reacts when a two person load is applied. During a rescue there are lots of opportunities for the victim's load being supported by the climber's hitch. That will dramatically change how the climber's hitch reacts. Some hitches lock off others run.
The I'd is rated for two person load. Having a long handle to increase leverage and feather the release is a real benefit in a two person/rescue scenario.
Since the Uni doesn't rely on rope on rope friction there are half the variables to account for. The Uni is the same all of the time the rope is what is changing.
Almost any climbing hitch/friction device or lanyard adjuster that I've tried "sucked" during the first few climbs. After I got used to it's personality I changed my mind or technique.
The feedback about the Uni in the rain came from climbers who used my Uni when I loaned it to Rich Hattier to take to Hawaii last year. To be fair, any new or unfamiliar hitch would likely have gotten the same feedback. Once a person dials in a system they understand it's strengths and weaknesses and can adjust their climbing style to meet the conditions.
*****
Something that can't be stressed enough is to be aware of how a friction hitch reacts when a two person load is applied. During a rescue there are lots of opportunities for the victim's load being supported by the climber's hitch. That will dramatically change how the climber's hitch reacts. Some hitches lock off others run.
The I'd is rated for two person load. Having a long handle to increase leverage and feather the release is a real benefit in a two person/rescue scenario.