Yea this stuff is tough for me to word through on here but I think I know what you mean and it's all good if you don't got me but I own both the 10mm and 8mm and I think you'll understand better when you try it. I think you'll be alright with that 16 strand but a tighter braid like the ss2 was really rough.No.. lol... Not core + cover as a whole.. I don't know how i gave that impression. Maybe it was my comments on the split tails eyes i saw with cores intact.. Regardless, That would be a task I would not want to be burden with (threading 16 stand with core through thimble)... However, interesting note here.. last time i spoke to Taylor @ DMM, he said something about a 12mm Thimble to be able to pass our climbing lines as a whole.. Whether that's something that is even on the drawing board yet, idk.
Here's just a few of the things in use. One 16 stand, rest are "11.7's".. & i know i saw one on a pink tachyon at one point too.
Arrow Frog Thimble Friction Saver (Body)
5.5 FT long Yale Arrow Frog body with a DMM Thimble spliced on one end. This friction saver is just the body, the matching thimble prusik can be found HERE. By using a thimble instead of an alu ring makes this friction saver better suited to abuse, hitting the floor from a height causes less of...www.nugreenstore.com
Thimble Moon Friction Saver (Body)
5.5 FT long Yale Bluemoon body with a DMM Thimble spliced on one end. This friction saver is just the body, the matching thimble prusik can be found HERE. By using a thimble instead of an alu ring makes this friction saver better suited to abuse, hitting the floor from a height causes less of an...
What i do to make these easier to thread is.. you just make straight passes.. In & straight up through first hole, pull some extra slack, point & shoot straight through top hole, pull extra slack, rinse & repeat for the last. Yeah if your trying to physically PUSH over sized cordage through it, for sure it's a tough feat. But if you go about it by PULLING the cordage through & leaving enough slack at each opening to proceed to the next, it aint too bad. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.
(Now, to do all that with a DB splice while trying to maintain a tight X-over & keeping enough slack in there to work with, i can deff see that being tough, especially if things are tight.. But with the 16 strand, shit.. it's a one shot deal... up & through the thimble with the hollow reduced cover tail, bury the tail, anchor off & drive it home.)
I didn't follow you comment on "once the cover is gone" it will be too tight to equalize. (I assume you meant to say core).. But regardless, why would things get even tighter after removing the core? I don't follow, it's less material, how would it get harder?
The thing about the DB vs 16 stand & these thimbles is, in the end the DB maintains it's 11+ diameter, the 16 strand has half it's bloat removed, shrinks even more so when loaded & the braids can collapse some.. As far as equalizing goes, it's a tight eye type splice, so we're not talking about a big eye or prusik loop that utilizes the ultimate benifit from an equalizing thimble floating around. Yeah, there will naturally be a little equalizing even within a tight eye, but even these oversized cordages (as tight as they can feel going through) aren't enough to keep it from doing so when we load it with our body weight, the thing is for the most part, pretty much static anyways, as there's no where for it to go. Also, like i hinted to a few words back, in this particular use, it not so much the equalizing aspect your after, but more so the lower profile shape & the bomb proof characteristic of steel.
Fugg that's long..
I'd love me a 12mm thimble too so hollar if you hear anymore about it pls
