Tenex Eye to Eye question

[climbstihl]

So I tried my hand splicing an e2e from tenex tec, following the samson instructions, but now I have about 4" in the middle where there is no overlap. Two questions:
What did I do wrong?
Is it still safe to use? I know those abrupt changes lower the braking strength. I mainly wanted to use it as a canopy anchor or friction saver.

 

[Brocky]

As long as the tapers were gradual it will be good. Hitch cords are what need a consistent diameter, maybe use the IceTail instructions, if you want it uniform.

 

[climbstihl]

I tapered it as the instructions said, pull 3 steand pairs on each side, and cut off the end at an angle. I don't know if that's gradual enough?
The instructions are Samsons Class 1 12 strand instructions, which include Icetail, and it says that it's supposed to come out uniform.

 

[Brocky]

Sounds like it should be good. The separate Icetail instructions are for a double eye hitch cord not just a single eye. When the Icetail instructions first came out the tail lengths were wrong and produced a bump in the middle, not sure if they ever changed them.

 

[climbstihl]

I did do a double eye hitch cord. I thought I made that clear when I said eye to eye.
The instructions are also for an eye to eye.

 

[Brocky]

Ok, those are the instructions and for some reason your’s went the other way with no overlap. How long is it and it looks like the buries are starting to back out, it can happen if it is flexed before whip stitched.

 

[Mowerr]

So I tried my hand splicing an e2e from tenex tec, following the samson instructions, but now I have about 4" in the middle where there is no overlap. Two questions:
What did I do wrong?
Is it still safe to use? I know those abrupt changes lower the braking strength. I mainly wanted to use it as a canopy anchor or friction saver.

I just use regular sewn eye hitch cords for that a lot. Usually 10mm, currently epicord and ocean poly.
I do want to get some tenex and learn splicing that too. But 3 strand is so easy and cheap, and I already know how to do it but at the same time I like to get better at splicing in the winters when work is slow.

 

[climbstihl]

Sewn eyes are expensive. I do need to get a 10mm sewn e2e though, the knots are killing me with a climbing system.
Tenex is really easy to splice, I haven't had any issues making soft shackles, loopies and whoopies, etc.

 

[climbstihl]

Ok, those are the instructions and for some reason your’s went the other way with no overlap. How long is it and it looks like the buries are starting to back out, it can happen if it is flexed before whip stitched.

25". Was aiming for 28"
I decided to wait with the stitching until I knew I was going to leave it spliced. The buries are coming out a little bit, but it doesn't make a big difference in the middle.

 

[Birdyman88]

Although Samson calls for the long bury and for it to end up uniform, that's not a requirement is it? I used to splice ice tail like that initially and ended up with 10mm cord that didn't work well for me. I wanted it 8mm in the working part, so I ended up doing the locking brummel and burying 4" (13 diameters) with generous taper then lock stitching the bury. That left the working part at the original 8mm diameter. I believe Nick A. used to do it that way and supposedly it tested out. That's the way I do all my 12 strand Terex eye splices now.

 

[Brocky]

The Samson instructions are still wrong, the 80” isn’t long enough by an inch plus the loss of length due to expansion. If the total length is 33”, half would be16 1/2”. 16 1/2 + 4 for overlap, and 3 1/2 that’s cut off. Add them together equals 24 x 2 sides = 48. 80 - 48 = 32, one inch short and nothing for expansion, which should result in a bump on the middle.
Sorry that doesn’t solve your problem.
These were the first instructions, only the title was changed.

 

[Mowerr]

Sewn eyes are expensive. I do need to get a 10mm sewn e2e though, the knots are killing me with a climbing system.
Tenex is really easy to splice, I haven't had any issues making soft shackles, loopies and whoopies, etc.

Well if your using them for anchors I think they last a lot longer than using them for hitches. Idk what else you were using for cambium savers before but an e2e hitch cord is way cheaper than any friction saver on the market by a lot. You can get almost any length too... Just add in your hardware and prusik to make it adjustable. Lasts a lot longer than tenex .

 

[climbstihl]

Well if your using them for anchors I think they last a lot longer than using them for hitches. Idk what else you were using for cambium savers before but an e2e hitch cord is way cheaper than any friction saver on the market by a lot. You can get almost any length too... Just add in your hardware and prusik to make it adjustable. Lasts a lot longer than tenex .

I was using 1" webbing with bike inner tube as a cover.

 

[Mowerr]

I was using 1" webbing with bike inner tube as a cover.

That's why I fucks Wich ya brah...that's some serial killer shit !

 

[JTree]

If you are using it for an anchor, I say go for it. The less than uniform diameter is not going to affect it enough to be under 23Kn. If you are dying for it to be uniform, then you'll have to keep jacking with it until you figure it out. I lost my recipies, but if I remember, it wasn't too involved figuring out a constant to multiply by to measure pieces.

 

[Ragnar]

Bump for an older thread and a fresh attempt. 3/8" Tenex and Tenex-Tec

Following the current version of Samson's Eye and Eye Tail Splice that Brocky posted above.

Attempt 1: Nice uniform thickness along middle, just 5" short of objective
Attempt 2: Correct length but cut tails too short in final step so ended up with a thin spot in middle.
Attempt 3: Too long (just used what rope I had left. Did a better job on the taper overlap but still could improve.
Attempt 4: Hit objective length right on and good taper crossover in middle. I think I need to plan for longer E2E becuase the final corage seems to be a lot thicker than the 10mm.

Left to right = 1-4

Top to bottom = 1-4

A few questions about the final taper crossover. I mark where the core emerges then pull out core to expose an addtional 3.5" then mark. Is this mark where you want to cut/taper? Is the taper/angled cut centered on the cut line? All on the tail side of the cut line?

Just before it goes south...

Here, I cut off the inner core section 3.5" from where it emerges from core. You may be able to see my mark where it emerges ~1.5" from end

The mark is the 3.5" in from where it emerges (Mark X). I tried not to cut/taper anything towards middle of line. Would say this gave the least lumpy middle but still room for improvement.