T542i advice for longer and better using

I was using a brand new 542 with a new 200x battery with supposedly full charge in my hand two days ago taking out a tuliptree. Temps started at 50 degrees but then dipped to freezing. I made a few minor rigs- then I working on a 6” notch and it crapped out on me. I kept turning it on and off as I was 100’ in the air and didn’t want to send down a friggen saw at that height and have to hoist another up, especially in the middle of the rig. Eventually I got it to make the back cut. I swore a lot and then swapped out for a 201.

So I dunno my t535 is pretty reliable, not sure what’s going on with these new toys. It sprinkled on us a little in the morning, maybe that had something to do with it. Maybe the battery said it was 4 bars fully charged but it wasn’t.
 
I think I've noticed I have to turn saw off and back on before it registers a true battery charge reading again... on my Echos. But Huskys register true reading.

But more likely that sounds like a single battery issue to me. I would test a warmed up battery with full charge by doing run time cuts. I got about 10 minutes of firewood bucking up to 14 inch dia out of a full new battery.
 
Bart_ said:
IIRC lithium ion batteries don't like cold, either for being charged or putting out amperage which on a saw they load the battery pretty hard. When lithium ion batteries were new sport bikes adopted them to drop the weight of a lead acid battery but on cold days the procedure was to I think run the lights for a short while so the battery could self heat enough to then attempt cranking the motor. Then you only had a couple short shots available unlike the deeper reserve of the lead acid unit.

So in the category of pretty sure, only charge warmed up batteries and try to start a cold day with warmed batteries that will hopefully be slower to cool off due to self heating during use. Gives an idea to put a little insulation around them for chronic winter use. Conversely in the summer they require internal over temperature protection cut outs!
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I remember August Hunicке videos with fur on saddle,now it could be on saws :)
Does somebody grease clutch bearings on 542?I have new saw but it has some noice
 
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Lviv79 said:
I remember August Hunicке videos with fur on saddle,now it could be on saws :)
Does somebody grease clutch bearings on 542?I have new saw but it has some noice
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Same here. Just got the saw after it was miss delivered. Gawd I wish we had the option of choosing which company ships.
The I was loving how I could feather in the cut, when I heard some really weird sounds. After playing around with it I think part of it (if not all of it). Is you can hear it! More at low rpm’s as the motor doesn’t over power the noise, likely gas saws do the same but with the combustion even at idle there is no chance of hearing the mechanical noises unless something is terribly wrong.

I guess I should look back in the box to read the manual
 
Stumpsprouts said:
I was using a brand new 542 with a new 200x battery with supposedly full charge in my hand two days ago taking out a tuliptree. Temps started at 50 degrees but then dipped to freezing. I made a few minor rigs- then I working on a 6” notch and it crapped out on me. I kept turning it on and off as I was 100’ in the air and didn’t want to send down a friggen saw at that height and have to hoist another up, especially in the middle of the rig. Eventually I got it to make the back cut. I swore a lot and then swapped out for a 201.

So I dunno my t535 is pretty reliable, not sure what’s going on with these new toys. It sprinkled on us a little in the morning, maybe that had something to do with it. Maybe the battery said it was 4 bars fully charged but it wasn’t.
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evo said:
Yup, manual calls for lube on the needle bearing WEEKLY! with either grease or motor oil?!
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Is it possible to do it without this special greese conteiner/or how to call this?
 
What I want to add,maybe for much powerfull devicess/201 stihl clutch worк very fast and we dont have long rotation on bearing? T542 is much weaкеr/not so fast acceleration- longer time of catching clutch?What do you thinкing?
 
Don't mess around substituting different grease. Warranty. And they have figured out viscosity, base type, tackiness just right for the use. Stihl threads a hole on other equipment - unscrew the plug, screw in the grease tube, squeeze. Are you talking about something like that or is it - remove the clutch, solvent wash the needle, finger spread grease into needle bearing? finger method on Stihl clutch needle bearings.

Does the saw have a primary gear reduction or is it direct drive chain sprocket on the motor shaft? Could be more lubing required.

Battery "bars" is terminal voltage which for the same chemistry state of charge is lower at lower temps. Voltage also sags under load. Maybe more than usual. This might be fooling the battery/motor control brain which odds are doesn't consider operating temperature. Only under voltage "save the battery from damage!" and "we're burning up captain turn off the warp drives" avoiding magic smoke escaping.

edit - grease that puppy with the factory gizmo!
 
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Thanks that is helpful the diagram isn’t very clear. Haven’t used the saw since last week and haven’t inspected it yet.
That style grease gun was on the shelf on the saw isle, Oregon brand. Nothing on the packaging indicates use for the needle bearings but for bar nose sprockets. I’d assume it’s all the same as it’s just the other end.
IMG_4094.jpegIMG_4095.jpeg
 
evo said:
Thanks that is helpful the diagram isn’t very clear. Haven’t used the saw since last week and haven’t inspected it yet.
That style grease gun was on the shelf on the saw isle, Oregon brand. Nothing on the packaging indicates use for the needle bearings but for bar nose sprockets. I’d assume it’s all the same as it’s just the other end.
View attachment 96713View attachment 96714
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That does look like the grease tool for a bar nose sprocket.

At the risk of sounding stupid, why does this saw need it’s clutch to be greased regularly when I’ve never heard of doing that for any other chainsaw? Or did I just miss that detail in chainsaw maintenance 101?
 
Missed the detail. The needle bearings will run a long time even pretty lean on grease but, not forever.

A person doesn't have to have one of those cheap plastic grease injectors. You can get a "needle" style tip and put it on a good quality mini grease gun, or get a tip and put a zirc fitting on the other side of it and just attach to your common use grease gun when it's time for special duty - saw maintenance, front driveline greasing on a Ram 5500 for instance.
 
Stumpsprouts said:
That does look like the grease tool for a bar nose sprocket.

At the risk of sounding stupid, why does this saw need it’s clutch to be greased regularly when I’ve never heard of doing that for any other chainsaw? Or did I just miss that detail in chainsaw maintenance 101?
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It’s a maintenance thing for sure. But I only consider it every 3rd chain or so. Only had one fail, and I have replaced a few that felt a little crunchy.
Most all my saws get a little bar oil down there anyway so I really don’t hold it in much regard
 
The way for anyone to find out is to pull the clutch and inspect the bearings with your own eyes. Many saw models do not provide for greasing without removing the clutch. I have run them on saws until they started to squeal a little and let the chain spin at idle. That was longer between grease than I would at all advise but could happen in one chains use for me. I love saw models that provide for greasing through a drilled hole in the crankshaft/clutch shaft. I would suggest greasing more often and looking for signs and indications that help you not over grease such as grease spun out into clutch workings etc. Huskys once per week recommendation sounds like a pretty solid place to start from and not do any damage. (30 - 40 hours of work.)
 
I don't know who wrote that manual but the retention under motion of 10w30 and grease are worlds apart!

May I suggest the grease from the Stihl FSM for their clutch needle bearings - pretty solid CYA ground and an engineered lubricant choice. You could make an adapter from the threaded end of the tube to the shaft hole.

I've never heard aa needle bearing squeal/screech even bone dry. There may be an additional contact surface that's getting lubricated/protected. Maybe they go dry because some -person- did the initial lube at the factory with motor oil which promptly disappeared.

Bearing and clutch aren't a big concern but the motor shaft damaged = new motor $$$

Curious if those arc shaped inner drive fingers of the clutch are lubed or run dry?
 
Merle Nelson said:
Missed the detail. The needle bearings will run a long time even pretty lean on grease but, not forever.

A person doesn't have to have one of those cheap plastic grease injectors. You can get a "needle" style tip and put it on a good quality mini grease gun, or get a tip and put a zirc fitting on the other side of it and just attach to your common use grease gun when it's time for special duty - saw maintenance, front driveline greasing on a Ram 5500 for instance.
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Is there special hole for grease?I haven't notice.Because how in another way grease went throught the thread of clutch cover?
 
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