Stitching Webbing on T.M.

Has anyone stiched their own webbing on a T.M. saddle? I need to replace a section on one of my T.M.s

Can anyone provide a link, photos, or illustrations of a proper pattern for the stitching?

Should I do this at all? Or, should I have a professional do it?

I can't get any place around here to do it. They don't want to accept liability.
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I think you can get the reolacement webbing from Sherril if thats what your referring to.The small hip section is like 14.00 bones but for some crazy reason the leg strap replacemnets are 183.oo a piece.So if you you got to change all 4 your looking at 400 bucks.I have my first tree motion laying in my office floor forever now but of the price of the replacemnets.
 
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Read the book 'On Rope', there is a great chapter on sewing. They cover it in wonderful detail.

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I don't know why I've procrastinated with buying this book... Thanks Tom.
 
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I think you can get the reolacement webbing from Sherril if thats what your referring to.The small hip section is like 14.00 bones...

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Yep, it's the hip/bridge/green d-ring section that is tearing. But, that section of webbing is stitched back to the red colored ring. So, I'd need to do the same.

I think I can pull it off, but I'm sure I'm ignorant of something I may do wrong... Therefore, I'd like to fully research the matter.

Any one do this and have pics?
 
The replacement webbing that sherrill sells has a loop on the end that can be girth hitched to the red ring, so no need to sew.

Some climbing/mountaineering supply stores can do rated custom stitching for you. I've had our local store here in Portland sew me several custom tools and been really impressed with the results. If you want to do it yourself, starting with 'On Rope' is a great idea.
 
Jamin,

Please do not try to stitch your own webbing or even hire someone else to do it for you.

Buy the replacement parts.

These are certified and tested for use as replacement parts for the treeMOTION. Unless Teufelberger publishes specific stitching instructions including materials used and stitch patterns, etc, etc... you are modifying a factory part.

Yeah, yeah, it's all just Nylon and Polyester but I would certainly not take the risk.
 
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I can't get any place around here to do it. They don't want to accept liability.
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There's a reason why they won't. Could it be that it's a life support component?

Let the professionals repair it.
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what is the deal with this TM??? why do so many people buy it when it clearly states that it is not intended to last?

seems weird to me.

I love my new Sequoia! warrantied for 3 years too :)

takes a company that is truly confident in what they make and the materials used to make this kind of statement ;)
 
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what is the deal with this TM??? why do so many people buy it when it clearly states that it is not intended to last?

seems weird to me.

I love my new Sequoia! warrantied for 3 years too :)

takes a company that is truly confident in what they make and the materials used to make this kind of statement ;)

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Give me a break!

Are you serious? Not intended to last? I don't read that anywhere. Not intended to be abused, now that's more like it. I've been climbing full time on my treeMOTION for 4 years. I just recently installed my second pair of replacement leg loops and I have replaced the hip webbing once. What happens when textile material runs over a hard surface (aluminum)? It slowly wears down. Do climbing lines and rigging lines wear out? Of course. Same with webbing on a harness. I just purchased a new rope and the user's manual stated that with daily use it should be replaced within 3 to 6 months. Do you think that's reasonable? Guess it depends upon the conditions of use and how the product has been handled, stored, and cared for. Same goes for any piece of climbing kit.
 
Im with TL, spend the $14 a get the ones that they send you. Ive also been in my TM for over 4 years and replaced the bridge and leg straps once. Starting to see alot of wear on the rings, but no cracks of any kind. The pads in the leg straps are starting to fall out where the velcro has rubbed the fabric apart, which Im trying to figure out how to replace without spending the $180.
 
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Read the book 'On Rope', there is a great chapter on sewing. They cover it in wonderful detail.

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The information on sewing webbing in both editions of On Rope comes mainly from an article by Cal Magnussen in the old Off Belay magazine, No. 5, Octpber 1972. It was reprinted in Nylon Highway No. 3, December 1974. It is the only readily available article on sewing webbing. On Rope, Second Edition, includes some unpublished data from Geary Schindel.

I was not impressed with Magnussen's article. He sewed nylon webbing with polyester thread. You should use nylon thread for nylon webbing and polyester thread for polyester webbing. He did not state the strength of his thread or the number of stitches in each pattern. From the little drawings he had, it appeared that the strongest pattern was the one with the most stitches. I expressed my concerns in a letter that got published in Off Belay No. 7, February 1973. Magnussen answered some of my concerns there.

My rule of thumb is that each stitch holds an amount equal to the strength of the thread. I have an Air Force report that indicates the strength of each stitch might be only 0.7 times the strength of the thread. With thick webbing, I use the largest thread that feeds smoothly in my machine. I avoid concentrating too much stitching in a small area.

The advice was sometimes given to have a shoe repairman or upholstery shop sew the webbing. I tried that once. The guy put in a couple rows of stitching, pulled it by hand, and said "See, it's not going to tear." Aside from doing my own work, the only ones I would trust would be a parachute rigger or a manufacturer of climbing harnesses.

I talked to Bruce Smith last week. He said that he would write that chapter differently if he were to do it again. He now owns On Rope 1, which makes harnesses.
 

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