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Read the book 'On Rope', there is a great chapter on sewing. They cover it in wonderful detail.
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The information on sewing webbing in both editions of On Rope comes mainly from an article by Cal Magnussen in the old Off Belay magazine, No. 5, Octpber 1972. It was reprinted in Nylon Highway No. 3, December 1974. It is the only readily available article on sewing webbing. On Rope, Second Edition, includes some unpublished data from Geary Schindel.
I was not impressed with Magnussen's article. He sewed nylon webbing with polyester thread. You should use nylon thread for nylon webbing and polyester thread for polyester webbing. He did not state the strength of his thread or the number of stitches in each pattern. From the little drawings he had, it appeared that the strongest pattern was the one with the most stitches. I expressed my concerns in a letter that got published in Off Belay No. 7, February 1973. Magnussen answered some of my concerns there.
My rule of thumb is that each stitch holds an amount equal to the strength of the thread. I have an Air Force report that indicates the strength of each stitch might be only 0.7 times the strength of the thread. With thick webbing, I use the largest thread that feeds smoothly in my machine. I avoid concentrating too much stitching in a small area.
The advice was sometimes given to have a shoe repairman or upholstery shop sew the webbing. I tried that once. The guy put in a couple rows of stitching, pulled it by hand, and said "See, it's not going to tear." Aside from doing my own work, the only ones I would trust would be a parachute rigger or a manufacturer of climbing harnesses.
I talked to Bruce Smith last week. He said that he would write that chapter differently if he were to do it again. He now owns On Rope 1, which makes harnesses.