Staking at Planting

Chris_Robinson

Chris_Robinson

Location
Montreal West, Qc
When do you consider a stake on a newly transplanted tree necessary? Working for a municipality, we plant almost exclusively 60-80mm DBH with root balls close to 1 m across. (2-3 inch DBH with a 3 foot diameter root ball). Since I've been working here I've never installed stakes on trees of this size thinking that their root balls are big and heavy enough that they won't fall over, especially with soil backfilled around them (obviously not compacted), and that a tree that is allowed to move freely in the wind will develop more trunk taper and a stronger root system than one that is supported by an outside object (stake). The only times I've put in stakes is when we've received a tree from the nursery that have obviously been grown in a row sheltered from any significant wind, and the powers that be decide they want that tree in a big open field or park where its going to get reamed by wind. I had a newly planted pin oak in a situation like this without a stake bend over so severely that it literally formed an arc after being blasted by winter winds. I was able to straighten it with a stake the following year. Now, when I come across situations like this, I will pre-emptively put a guy rope with a bit of slack about 2/3 of the way up the trunk running back to a stake upwind outside the root ball. This way the tree can move somewhat freely and naturally in the wind but it prevents it from being pushed "too far", like in the case of my little pin oak. Also, I have installed 3 stakes around a couple trees when vandalism was a concern.

Upon having a conversation with another arborist this weekend, he told me that he always stakes his trees for the first year and the reason for that is that when the trees are transplanted, they experience a certain amount of transplant stress. We all know that right? But he claimed that installing a stake for the first year allowed to the tree to focus its energy on establishing its root system, rather than having to repair the tiny tearing of fibers that the tree will experience as it moves in the wind. Once the roots have established after a year or two and he can visibly see a normal sized shoot, he removes the stake because that normal sized shoot indicates the establishment of the root system. Any thoughts?
 
I think it all depends on the weight of the root ball and the surrounding conditions. Considering the shallow depth of a properly planted tree, sometimes staking is necessary. Though it should be done where a little sway is allowed and the stakes and straps should be removed as soon as feasible. I've seen a lot of newly planted trees being installed too deep to help combat the potential for falling over. This is much more harmful than properly installed, temporary staking.
 
it goes without saying that planting too deeply is terribly harmful....but my question is, when is staking REALLY necessary. is this guy's theory of staking, not to prevent the tree from falling over, but to aid its root development by allowing its resources to be devoted mostly to that, and not to the reparation of tiny fibers tearing. (not tiny tearing!) as for the normal sized shoot, we really didn't go into details there...we were interrupted by "last call" for beer! :)
 
Obviously less staking is required with a B & B tree than a container grown tree. You need to stake a container tree so you can protect growth of those girdling roots :eek:. But a heavy balled tree usually doesn't need it unless in an area exposed to high winds...I have had some knocked crooked and that is as bad as being uprooted. I never stake em ...want to promote reaction wood...but sometimes am sorry I didn't. All par for the course as a tortured Arborist. Deer protection fencing around here is the big necessity...and I mean right now.
 
how would staking a container grown tree prevent girdling roots from developing? I've always just taken the container off and teased the roots outward before planting. Yes some may break but the way I see it, a couple broken fine roots at the time of planting is far less of a stress than a big-ass girdling root 20 years down the road.
 
Only way I could see roots girdling from the planting process is:

1) planted too deep in container prior

2) planted too deep in ground/volcano mulched

Not sure how staking would play a part either.
 
Shigo taught me to not stake....unless the tree doesn't have taper like what's been said...tight nursery growing conditions.

The tiny tears are how reaction wood forms from what I've learned. In the long term the tree is stronger.

I'm doing a fair amount of splinting to try and straighten crooked trunks in small trees. Bamboo with 2-3 wraps of duct tape in strategic places. This is only for special applications, not across the board.
 
Chris_Robinson said:
how would staking a container grown tree prevent girdling roots from developing? I've always just taken the container off and teased the roots outward before planting. Yes some may break but the way I see it, a couple broken fine roots at the time of planting is far less of a stress than a big-ass girdling root 20 years down the road.
Click to expand...

My comment was meant to be sarcastic. Pretty much every tree that is container grown I have encountered has early girdlers and you can do what you may to "tease" them out...but many unseen are missed. Most trees in the 25 gal mid container size of trunk that have mass encircling roots were obviously container grown trees.
 
Some b&b have been packaged a while and benefit from loosening. And breaking up the edges alwayshelps avoid interface issues. But yeah it All depends on nursery quality.
 
I've planted bare-root to avoid the problems associated with both container and b&b trees. It's more an issue of the degree of patience of the client and the site
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom