SRT/Lanyard Canopy Tie-In/Cinch Options?

Note: With a spliced eye on a lanyard you have less flexibilty choking on smaller diameter stuff, you'll sideload the throat of the splice too much, with a sewn eye less of a problem, the length of the stitched area is short enough that it takes very small diameter branches to create any significant sideloading on the stitching.
-AJ

What kind of damage does that do to the throat of a spliced eye exactly? I do some rigging with a half inch double braid, tight eye splice and a steel biner (choked), quite often...
 
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What kind of damage does that do to the throat of a spliced eye exactly? I do some rigging with a half inch double braid, tight eye splice and a steel biner (choked), quite often...
Imho, this is why Teufelberger developed the slaice, a sewn splice with the addition of a piece of dyneema webbbing, I don't think it was really neccesary. The splice used as you described still doesn't see a reduction in strength like a knot does. With your rope being the weakest link in a rigging system, this method seems more than legit, especially when you add a half hitch before it.

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
 
What kind of damage does that do to the throat of a spliced eye exactly? I do some rigging with a half inch double braid, tight eye splice and a steel biner (choked), quite often...

I'm talking about small diameter wood 3" for example with a choked lanyard, you could theoretically side load the throat of a splice. Which I've been told is not healthy for the splice, I don't actually know why, not a splicer (yet).
 
I think it would have potential for working some of the internal weave apart,that's only reason i take precautionary measures in that instance.
 
Are you a fan of the Trex stuff?
Ever notice how Samson rope has that "already broken I feel"? I think T rex has great characteristics for spliceablity but will take some use to make it feel broken in. In some cases it's perfect, ultra slings... haas... but the coating is heavy.

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
 
Thank you, Reed... I was about to mention Tenex-TEC for the obvious reason that it solves a lot of the problems mentioned. I think it is easy to forget how strong it is for its diameter. There's a reason it makes great slings. And, a brummel doesn't care about side loading. I carry a short, Tenex-TEC ultrasling on my belt. If I want to choke off to a stem, I add it to the end of the lanyard or climb line. If I'm tired of carrying it on my belt, I just leave it on there. Small steel ring on one end... big, rigging steel ring on the other end (small ring will pass through big one). Cordura chafe sleeve (2" wide stuff) covering it, sewn to brummel at one end. To stick one end through the loops, I just bunch up the chafe sleeve toward the other end until the right loop is exposed. No brainer. Useful for dozens of things.
 
I should mention that for most of the purposes mentioned here, an aluminum ring on one end is all it actually needs. That would make it super lightweight. Choke it to a limb and clip line or lanyard to it. Done.
 
Yes you may, but Paul is even better.

I love working with friction and your quick overhand solution has an elegance. Careful of slippage when cutting please.

Thanks Paul. With my latest 'overhand solution' (I'm not sure what to call it either) - of course it can slip around the trunk if I rotate to the side with the hanging tail end (to the right) - I found it would not slip around the trunk if I rotated to the opposite side (to the left).

I did try the very configuration that you have taken a photo of (except I captured the biner with a turn on the line, or a slipknot) - I found that this configuration was more prone to slipping.

I too am curious about your steel biner, bent nose out of gate.

You're doing some great work over there in Japan. Thanks
 

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