- Location
- Knoxville TN
You know when the manual is coming out?
SRT Alpine style
- Thread starter surveyor
- Start date
We are in the middle stages and hope to have it out by....my best guess is mid summer. We definately want to have it ready to go for the TCIA EXPO in Baltimore, but that's not until November. There should be some pretty good info in the publication, especially for the person wanting to get in to SRT. I will say that is not intended to be a stand alone manual, but as reference to hands-on training.
Donny Coffey
Donny Coffey
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
[ QUOTE ]
And/Or you could purchase the NATS SRT video from SherrillTREE
[/ QUOTE ]
Has anyone watched this vid?
How about a review? Can we get access to the Table of Contents to get an idea what is covered?
Vids have their place but at $40 and a laptop to get to the info it seems awkward compared to having a retro system like a printed book.
And/Or you could purchase the NATS SRT video from SherrillTREE
[/ QUOTE ]
Has anyone watched this vid?
How about a review? Can we get access to the Table of Contents to get an idea what is covered?
Vids have their place but at $40 and a laptop to get to the info it seems awkward compared to having a retro system like a printed book.
Hey Tom,
I agree with you. It is hard to get a laptop, power source, and screen out in the field. Books can be used as references to what the instructor is doing right in front of you or in the tree.
Videos do have their place though. Everyone learns differently.
Donny Coffey
I agree with you. It is hard to get a laptop, power source, and screen out in the field. Books can be used as references to what the instructor is doing right in front of you or in the tree.
Videos do have their place though. Everyone learns differently.
Donny Coffey
I suppose you could hoist a climbing line that was only as long as the TIP, and retrieve it with the throw line, if you pulled the entire line to the TIP, then stopped and formed the cinch at the ground level, passed the throw line through the cinch, then tie the throw link to the cinch for later retrieval, and proceed to pull the climbing line down through the cinch until it cinches at the TIP, then untie the throw line from the hauled done end, leaving a length of climbing line that just reaching to the TIP and ready to pull back down with the throw line previously fastened at the cinch. : )
flyingsquirrel25
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- South East, PA
Thanks countryboy for posting that picture again... And getting a response from someone. I have posted it twice and didnt get a peep, about close calls or concerns from anyone.
This set up (with the petzl pulley) was used for one week trying to see how it worked and if it was worth pursuing. I then exchanged the petzl for a DMM pinto which is well inside the life support rating standards.
Bigwood, correct me if I am wrong your situation sounds like it occured due to the pully ending up on the spine and then being loaded causing an uneven load on the side plates, seperating them and allowing the axle to fall out?
In this TIP method the pulley is static, it does not move from the possition you install it at, because it cinches to the tree. I actually dont set this from the ground do to the fact of needing 3x the rope, I basil tie to get up in the tree and then advance to my final tie (because I rarely get my final tie with a thowline).
If I do get the final TIP, I will install the pulley when I get to the top and leave the basil tie loose, giving me a back up if the pulley were to fail.
As countryboy said redirects come out with this cinching system as well, I have pulled as many as 6, but planning and forsite must be a part of your route and of course there are a couple of tricks to it.
This set up (with the petzl pulley) was used for one week trying to see how it worked and if it was worth pursuing. I then exchanged the petzl for a DMM pinto which is well inside the life support rating standards.
Bigwood, correct me if I am wrong your situation sounds like it occured due to the pully ending up on the spine and then being loaded causing an uneven load on the side plates, seperating them and allowing the axle to fall out?
In this TIP method the pulley is static, it does not move from the possition you install it at, because it cinches to the tree. I actually dont set this from the ground do to the fact of needing 3x the rope, I basil tie to get up in the tree and then advance to my final tie (because I rarely get my final tie with a thowline).
If I do get the final TIP, I will install the pulley when I get to the top and leave the basil tie loose, giving me a back up if the pulley were to fail.
As countryboy said redirects come out with this cinching system as well, I have pulled as many as 6, but planning and forsite must be a part of your route and of course there are a couple of tricks to it.
- Location
- Rhode Island, USA
again you only need double the rope to choke a midline alpine just tie the alpine once you're throw line pulls the end of the climbing line just over your TIP then pull the throw line through the midline knot to send up the choke you will then end up with both ends of line at the ground
BigWood
Participating member
- Location
- Toronto, Canada
[ QUOTE ]
Thanks countryboy for posting that picture again... And getting a response from someone. I have posted it twice and didnt get a peep, about close calls or concerns from anyone.
This set up (with the petzl pulley) was used for one week trying to see how it worked and if it was worth pursuing. I then exchanged the petzl for a DMM pinto which is well inside the life support rating standards.
Bigwood, correct me if I am wrong your situation sounds like it occured due to the pully ending up on the spine and then being loaded causing an uneven load on the side plates, seperating them and allowing the axle to fall out?
In this TIP method the pulley is static, it does not move from the possition you install it at, because it cinches to the tree. I actually dont set this from the ground do to the fact of needing 3x the rope, I basil tie to get up in the tree and then advance to my final tie (because I rarely get my final tie with a thowline).
[/ QUOTE ]
Because most if not all biners have a radiused "basket", any load in that configuration is going to contribute to the side plates spreading. It just happened that my situation accelerated the process.
Regarding the tip method, I assume that if this is being set while at the TIP
Then a WR is being used. Therefore, although it is cinched to the tree, the angle if pull is constantly changing as one works the tree. There in lies the problem, the climbing line is almost always levering against the side plates.
Not to mention driving a chunk of alluminum into the cambium.
Finally the biner has no rating used this way, so you're really just guessing at its Swl at this point.
Thanks countryboy for posting that picture again... And getting a response from someone. I have posted it twice and didnt get a peep, about close calls or concerns from anyone.
This set up (with the petzl pulley) was used for one week trying to see how it worked and if it was worth pursuing. I then exchanged the petzl for a DMM pinto which is well inside the life support rating standards.
Bigwood, correct me if I am wrong your situation sounds like it occured due to the pully ending up on the spine and then being loaded causing an uneven load on the side plates, seperating them and allowing the axle to fall out?
In this TIP method the pulley is static, it does not move from the possition you install it at, because it cinches to the tree. I actually dont set this from the ground do to the fact of needing 3x the rope, I basil tie to get up in the tree and then advance to my final tie (because I rarely get my final tie with a thowline).
[/ QUOTE ]
Because most if not all biners have a radiused "basket", any load in that configuration is going to contribute to the side plates spreading. It just happened that my situation accelerated the process.
Regarding the tip method, I assume that if this is being set while at the TIP
Then a WR is being used. Therefore, although it is cinched to the tree, the angle if pull is constantly changing as one works the tree. There in lies the problem, the climbing line is almost always levering against the side plates.
Not to mention driving a chunk of alluminum into the cambium.
Finally the biner has no rating used this way, so you're really just guessing at its Swl at this point.
BigWood
Participating member
- Location
- Toronto, Canada
Might I suggest someone try a cocoon pulley and prusik instead of a butterfly carabiner and pulley. Looks like it should be like climbing directly off a really long rope guide. Still far from perfect, since I can't find a pulley that can be loaded " around a corner"
Low and slow please!
Although, I'm probably just recycling an idea someone else had a year ago.
Low and slow please!
Although, I'm probably just recycling an idea someone else had a year ago.
- Location
- sydney australia
[ QUOTE ]
Does anyone use this way of securing the TIP for SRT so that it can be retrieved from the ground? No worries about the down line being cut and less weight on the TIP.
[/ QUOTE ]
i'm a recent convert to climbing srt, having just purchased a rope wrench a month ago, but no stranger to accessing the tree srt which i have been doing for a number of years.
the way i see it is, unless you are climbing open canopied broadleaves, it is next to impossible to achieve your highpoint from the ground. after much messing about i feel what works best for me working srt in a production based scenerio, is to choke off the highest limb i can achieve from the ground (single line), access the tree, then use a conventional doubled rope system to reach your final anchor point and set up the following.
a mallion rapide choking off the highpoint with a prussick then through a dan house rope sleeve and a retrieval line connected to the end of the rope thrown out the back of the tree.
just my two cents. you can create loads of friction around fir stem without the rope sleeve.
cheers tiger
Does anyone use this way of securing the TIP for SRT so that it can be retrieved from the ground? No worries about the down line being cut and less weight on the TIP.
[/ QUOTE ]
i'm a recent convert to climbing srt, having just purchased a rope wrench a month ago, but no stranger to accessing the tree srt which i have been doing for a number of years.
the way i see it is, unless you are climbing open canopied broadleaves, it is next to impossible to achieve your highpoint from the ground. after much messing about i feel what works best for me working srt in a production based scenerio, is to choke off the highest limb i can achieve from the ground (single line), access the tree, then use a conventional doubled rope system to reach your final anchor point and set up the following.
a mallion rapide choking off the highpoint with a prussick then through a dan house rope sleeve and a retrieval line connected to the end of the rope thrown out the back of the tree.
just my two cents. you can create loads of friction around fir stem without the rope sleeve.
cheers tiger
DanHouse
New member
Graeme,
Stan and I still talk about our visit with you at the Seattle ITTC and am happy to read about your techniques. Tom showed us his Hitch Hiker last week and hope that we might meet up again soon, maybe in Portland?
See you at the top,
Dan House
PS thanks for the endorsement.
Stan and I still talk about our visit with you at the Seattle ITTC and am happy to read about your techniques. Tom showed us his Hitch Hiker last week and hope that we might meet up again soon, maybe in Portland?
See you at the top,
Dan House
PS thanks for the endorsement.
- Location
- sydney australia
[ QUOTE ]
Graeme,
Stan and I still talk about our visit with you at the Seattle ITTC and am happy to read about your techniques. Tom showed us his Hitch Hiker last week and hope that we might meet up again soon, maybe in Portland?
See you at the top,
Dan House
PS thanks for the endorsement.
[/ QUOTE ]
sorry about the confusion. second time i've been mistaken for graeme. my name is tiger devine i'm an australian arborist living in vancouver, just a fan of graeme's. (a quote of graeme's is my signature) would be interested in meeting you tho at the itcc, im coming down to support scott and jimmy and hopefully see tom greenwood if thats who you're talking about.
p.s your welcome, not a fan of tobe ripping off everyone's products either.
Graeme,
Stan and I still talk about our visit with you at the Seattle ITTC and am happy to read about your techniques. Tom showed us his Hitch Hiker last week and hope that we might meet up again soon, maybe in Portland?
See you at the top,
Dan House
PS thanks for the endorsement.
[/ QUOTE ]
sorry about the confusion. second time i've been mistaken for graeme. my name is tiger devine i'm an australian arborist living in vancouver, just a fan of graeme's. (a quote of graeme's is my signature) would be interested in meeting you tho at the itcc, im coming down to support scott and jimmy and hopefully see tom greenwood if thats who you're talking about.
p.s your welcome, not a fan of tobe ripping off everyone's products either.
DanHouse
New member
OH ok. I see how easy it would be to get confused. I will be helping out at the ITTC Fun Climb. Stan and I will be on site wearing Tree Climbing International "get high Climb Trees" t-shirts. My Tom is Tom Dunlap the Buzzer who pushed this site online.
Dan House
Dan House
- Location
- Randolph, MA
[ QUOTE ]
again you only need double the rope to choke a midline alpine just tie the alpine once you're throw line pulls the end of the climbing line just over your TIP then pull the throw line through the midline knot to send up the choke you will then end up with both ends of line at the ground
[/ QUOTE ]
This should be in the tips thread. It's one of those things that seems really obvious once you think about it, but for a drt guy it doesn't quite compute at first.
again you only need double the rope to choke a midline alpine just tie the alpine once you're throw line pulls the end of the climbing line just over your TIP then pull the throw line through the midline knot to send up the choke you will then end up with both ends of line at the ground
[/ QUOTE ]
This should be in the tips thread. It's one of those things that seems really obvious once you think about it, but for a drt guy it doesn't quite compute at first.
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