hseII
Participating member
- Location
- United States
He was Hoping me: no Sir!!
Spurs and Arch Pain
- Thread starter TrunkMonk
- Start date
He was Hoping me: no Sir!!
Roger_Barnett
Participating member
- Location
- Seattle, in the PNWet
Jesse, I'm leaving tomorrow. IUFC comped me the entire $624 Cdn conf cost for shooting pics!!! So, I'd better stock up on film, eh? EH, You say? I do and can, we moved to VanIs when I was 15.... I returned stateside for college...though.. The Makalus are size 9 or 9.5....
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
OP, how are you on pre setting and/or advancing your climb line?
The whole way up, you can hang out in your saddle.
Don't know how long you've been climbing, but part of it is---work fast, spend less time on spurs.
Chunk spars down in larger pieces, less too in spurs on a spar.
The whole way up, you can hang out in your saddle.
Don't know how long you've been climbing, but part of it is---work fast, spend less time on spurs.
Chunk spars down in larger pieces, less too in spurs on a spar.
Generally my climb line is attached to the pole as a choke safety as the only real occurrence of this issue is climbing palms.
Coconuts and the like are generally fine as it's straight up and down quickly, however the species of palm that are much larger and have formidable crowns take time to neatly piece out in their lovely garden surrounds.
I tend to have difficulty setting a high line in the crown of these palms and also I work them with my flipline set to a negative position, which doesn't make things peachier.
Shy of three years I've been climbing trees so there's no question that I've much to learn.
It's really only the last 6 to 12 months that I've been rigging out large wood and dropping bombs.
I think the boots I obtain next will help with this particular issue, as what I'm using are essentially landscapers boots and have seen their day long ago.
TreeSmithAK
New member
- Location
- Alaska
So I spoiled myself for my birthday & thought I would toss in another quick review of a more than suitable pair of boots 
Scarpa Wrangell GTX, way way comfortable & supportive right out of the box! Haven't been in spurs with them yet but trudging a few days on rocky grounded jobsites, these seem to have the arch support that will be awesome in Jhooks too!
TreeSmithAK
New member
- Location
- Alaska
Found new favorites... at least for spurless climbing & groundwork.. new position sees me doing more backcountry hiking than actual climbing... Kayland Apex Plus... lots of snow to deal with here so the built in goretex gaitors are proving worth their weight in gold.
I have been using these and they help considerably when my feet start to get sore.
https://buckinghammfg.com/products/climber-footplate-35033/
Jimmycrackcorn
Participating member
- Location
- Boston
What is the downside to these? Is it just the extra bulk? Or do you even notice they are there.. I would imagine they could make aspects other than straight up & down spar climbing difficult. Although they do look helpful with support.. 6 in one Half Dozen in the other?
As far as the rest of the thread.. - What are we getting out of these mountaineering/approach boots over a typical steel shank logger? Are the benefits just a simple matter of getting into something less clunky/bulky? Weight? Are they actually using a stiffer, thicker or longer shank? Is it the rubber that's attractive & enabling it to be a more all round spur/possibly spurless boot?
Personally, I'm trying to find the Holy Grail that will do both Flawlessly.. I started a thread about a little while ago & need to go check it again too.. I think the consensus in, last time i looked, was The Malaku.. A Scafell 2 boot & something else i can't remember. Also, already mentioned but, Hoffmans also has a TON of spur climbing boots with good descriptions..
What kills me is, trying to figure out how most of these boots are made & what they are actually good for.. Allot will market & use extremely technical language to explain the basic makeup of the boot & your left not knowing whether it's got certain features like steel shanks & how far they go within the boot.. Further more, If you read the descriptions on Arb Related boots they're always lumped into 3 categories..
"Chainsaw protection"
"Climbing"
"Chainsaw protection & Climbing"
But they never differentiate between spur climbing or spurless..
Also, probably more important when looking for spur support, is it ever possible to get the support a steel shank can give on spurs, by using urethane or hd nylon materials.
Lastly.. Nice Guy Dave from Wespur recently uploaded a video regarding boot selection that gave me a little more insight into what's good or bad for certain purposes.. & ironically enough, there's some boots in there that you would think would be good for both Spur/Spurless by reading their descriptions, but Dave says he has used them & they're only good for spur climbing..
Anyhow.. there's some questions somewhere in that rant of mine.. hopefully some answers will prevail.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
I can't imagine wearing insulated mountaineering boots in summer heat.
I've worn mountaineering boots in the winter somewhat. No complaints. b by tdeen a long time, tho.
An overhead climb line cuts foot pain.
A sharp as sh*t chain and powerful saw makes faster work of your aerial endeavors, less for pain.
Knocking logs, not chunks out of trees, especially without all the futzing around with pull ropes, unnecessarily, cuts time on spurs.
Planning efficient climb/ cut/ climb/ cut sequences cuts time in tree, so time on spurs.
If you have to 'firewood' a tree down in individual rounds, consider what someone called something like ''double-round (maybe 'block') bucking'', where you don't hang your saw between cuts. Saves time and non-cutting manuevering.
--Cut through your first round, clear your saw, start the next kerf close to your lanyard, 'park' your saw in the cut, manuever your top block off the spar top, "all net!" into your tight drop zone, resume cutting. Rinse and repeat.
I've worn mountaineering boots in the winter somewhat. No complaints. b by tdeen a long time, tho.
An overhead climb line cuts foot pain.
A sharp as sh*t chain and powerful saw makes faster work of your aerial endeavors, less for pain.
Knocking logs, not chunks out of trees, especially without all the futzing around with pull ropes, unnecessarily, cuts time on spurs.
Planning efficient climb/ cut/ climb/ cut sequences cuts time in tree, so time on spurs.
If you have to 'firewood' a tree down in individual rounds, consider what someone called something like ''double-round (maybe 'block') bucking'', where you don't hang your saw between cuts. Saves time and non-cutting manuevering.
--Cut through your first round, clear your saw, start the next kerf close to your lanyard, 'park' your saw in the cut, manuever your top block off the spar top, "all net!" into your tight drop zone, resume cutting. Rinse and repeat.
Last edited:
I will say it again. La Sportiva Makaklu's and Hoffman modified Meindle's are the best spur boots I have used. Both offer crazy good arch support and are generally all around comfy boots. I will say that the Makalu's are probably a better all around boot. They have all the arch support of the Hoffman's, but are a little easier to walk around in.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
https://hoffmanboots.com/meindl-lineman-boot
Something here, for summer?
My point was the less time you stand in spurs, the less time you stand in spurs.
My employee worked for a West coast spur-everything climber, recently out of biz... Two, yes two, double-hip replacements (presumably let and right done separately over time) over his career, and too beat up for more than a solid day or two ofclimbing per week.
Something here, for summer?
My point was the less time you stand in spurs, the less time you stand in spurs.
My employee worked for a West coast spur-everything climber, recently out of biz... Two, yes two, double-hip replacements (presumably let and right done separately over time) over his career, and too beat up for more than a solid day or two ofclimbing per week.
I’m kinda surprised I haven’t seen any mention of the Arbortec Scafell lites. I’ve been climbing in mine for over a year now and they are hands down the best boots for spur climbing I’ve come across. Extra thick midsole alleviates arch cramping on longer climbs, and they have a tapered toe with a class C rated toe cap, for better foot placement in crotches and chainsaw protection. A little awkward if you’re wearing them on the ground to help finish cleaning up, but I’ve found them to be the most well rounded boots for climbing, and I can spend all day in spurs with no foot pain.
TreeSmithAK
New member
- Location
- Alaska
For me the all around comfort of mountaineering boots is the major selling point. I've had the best whites loggers, every model of Danner known but for the last decade have climbed solely in mountain boots. La Sportiva Makaklu's are pretty much hands down the winner for comfort & not feeling too bulky.. though the Scarpa Wrangells give them a true run for their money, near identical fit & feel to them. The soles are constructed so stout, you'd be hard pressed to not think they were steel shanked. Zero flext in spurs. Part of the design of mountaineering boots is to bash through deep scree/big rock.. so they are usually toe-capped with material & between that & a much tougher toe box, tend to serve as tools to me.. meaning I can kick through a 1" dead limb & not feel a thing. The ankle support is far superior to logging style boots too, its actually constructed, and not just a sheet of leather leading up over your ankle, so your foot stays put in them... Typically they are gore-tex as well, so water isn't a problem both from intrusion, as well as sweat.. I know someone mentioned summer use but a good pair of mtn boots, it shouldn't be too big a deal since they do have breathability designed into them... All my years were in the pacific NW so I wasn't dealing with desert heat, but feet being hot was never an issue even on 90 degree days. I'm now doing transmission power line clearance in alaska which is involving lots more hiking & tons less climbing, and I can't imagine wearing just a pair of leather loggers anymore.
Jimmycrackcorn
Participating member
- Location
- Boston
Sorry Rico.... u probably feel like your beating a dead horse here..
I've heard alot of good feedback with these..
However, the general concept i can't wrap my head around is.. If they are a good boot for spurless & spur climbing, how can they be awkward or clumbsy on the ground...
I've never used a Mountaineering or Climbing boot aloft or in spurs. I've always used (what I'm trying to get away from & what i believe to be are big, klunky & heavy) steel toed loggers.. Specifically these newer Lace to Toe Timberland Ripsaws. Other than having a size 12 & feeling huge with these boots compared to others I've owned, working on the ground is no problem... My point is.. if these suggested boots are awkward on the ground, how are they going to be better once aloft assuming for me, i want spurless performance as well.. You would figure if they are bad/clumbsy on ground they won't be any better spurless.
Maybe there's an answer that won't detail this thread as this OP is asking about spur climbing & not spurless.
Ahh.. ok.. this answers a question i was asking earlier on i believe.. where i was wondering if HD Nylon materials really could replace a steel shank..
Do you know if that Construction has a dedicated flex point, like up in the ball point of your foot? I mean it has to have some flex.. but not feeling the spurs would indicate it's nice & hard under the arch, maybe while leaving the flex elsewhere.. right?
Definatley interested in those ones you posted.. the Makalu's.. As well as the Scafels.. I get that the Sportivas Scarpa's are Mountaineering boots, one steel one non steel shank.. I wonder where the Scaffels land within there. The Scaffels price point are definatley lower than those two, which is attractive, but i wonder if I'm just buying the "chainsaw protection" & if you take that away are they just a cheaper climbing boot, per say.
Last edited:
Stihlmadd
Been here a while
- Location
- Adelaide South Australia
What ever Brand or type/style of boots you do intend to purchase TreeMonk make sure the arch at the bottom of the boot is a sufficient size and shape to accommodate the gaff with a good fit or you are just throwing your money away.
a poor fitting gaff to boot will give you just as much grief as your flat feet.
I went through the same learning curve as you are currently at in regards to flat feet and climbing in blundstones - you can climb with gaffs in something like Arbpro's Evo's but a better choice is Pfanner Zermatts or a similar with arch supports built in and the chainsaw protective material as extra padding even if it is hotter during an Oz summer the comfort outlays the warmth IMO.
def go with an internal arch support whether steel or aluminium or plastic .
the height of the ankle up to the calf length is something that only you can decide works in your application.
a poor fitting gaff to boot will give you just as much grief as your flat feet.
I went through the same learning curve as you are currently at in regards to flat feet and climbing in blundstones - you can climb with gaffs in something like Arbpro's Evo's but a better choice is Pfanner Zermatts or a similar with arch supports built in and the chainsaw protective material as extra padding even if it is hotter during an Oz summer the comfort outlays the warmth IMO.
def go with an internal arch support whether steel or aluminium or plastic .
the height of the ankle up to the calf length is something that only you can decide works in your application.
Jimmycrackcorn
Participating member
- Location
- Boston
Good points!
Towards the end of your post you mention arch support. Is this a feature that is built into boots completely separate from the shank construction? As in, is there a scenario where you could have a shank built like a tank, but still have no arch support?
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Have you been to a podiatrist?
Do you wait to check the oil until you hear noise coming from the engine?
My podiatrist is a major help.
I waited until the "engine made noise".
Symptoms
The most common symptom of flat feet is pain in the feet. This can occur as a result of strained muscles and connecting ligaments.
Abnormal stresses on the knee and hip may result in pain in these joints. These stresses are likely if the ankles turn inward.
Pain most commonly affects the following parts of the body:
inside ankle, alongside possible swelling
- arch of the foot
- calf
- knee
- hip
- lower back
- lower legs
Flat feet can also cause an uneven distribution of body weight. This may result in shoes wearing down unevenly or more quickly than usual, especially on one side, which can lead to further injuries.
There are things foot doctors know about feet. Diagnosis. Treatment. If you're going to have flat feet for your whole life, you should see a podiatrist, independent of tree work.
Beating the snot out of them with subpar boots is going to exacerbate foot and related problems. These related problems are going to manifest like a building with a bad foundation, so your toes, ankles, knees, hips, spine. Your shoulders, elbows, wrists and fingers will probably be fine, don't worry.
Then there are the muscles attached across and/ or stabilizing any of those affected joints.
Just thoughts repeated from my podiatrist.
TimBr
Official Well Known Greeter
- Location
- Northern Virginia
@rico; That might just have been the maintenance man. Those guys can be tricky like that.
New threads New posts
-
test
-
-
-
-
-
Free CEUs: February 05 & March 05 - 'Urban Forestry Today' Webcasts @ Noon (Eastern)- Started by UFT
- Replies: 0
-
