Splicing stable braid

Jehinten

Jehinten

Been here much more than a while
Location
Evansville
This may have already been covered but I came up empty with the search bar, so feel free to link any other post onto here that answers my questions.

I just bought a new stable braid today and would like to splice the end, my only splicing experience is with 3 strand and hollow 12 strand . I have been using a homemade wire fid for the 12 strand, would that be acceptable for the double braid or do I need a regular fid? Is there anything I need to know, or should consider moving on to splicing a different rope construction?

Thanks in advance.
 
Jehinten said:
This may have already been covered but I came up empty with the search bar, so feel free to link any other post onto here that answers my questions.

I just bought a new stable braid today and would like to splice the end, my only splicing experience is with 3 strand and hollow 12 strand . I have been using a homemade wire fid for the 12 strand, would that be acceptable for the double braid or do I need a regular fid? Is there anything I need to know, or should consider moving on to splicing a different rope construction?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Stable grade is the perfect way to step into double braid construction splicing.. The cover is loose enough and is forgiving for a first timer. As far as the fid goes, you may want to make a longer wire fid because with a large eye and fairly long bury you might want to do it in one pull. The looser double braids require maintaining a very tight crossover as to not generate slack in the cover of the eye. Let us know how it goes.


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739
 
I think I'll try this today, but one more quick question. What is the length of the fid in inches? I am following samsons' instructions but I'm not sure how long each fid is.

Thanks for all of the advice so far. Much appreciated
 
Jehinten said:
I think I'll try this today, but one more quick question. What is the length of the fid in inches? I am following samsons' instructions but I'm not sure how long each fid is.

Thanks for all of the advice so far. Much appreciated
Click to expand...

A fid is always 21 times the diameter... so it depends on the size of the rope.


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739
 
Worthaug said:
Does the eye feel a little baggy?

The tapers look a little abrupt in the throat...


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739
Click to expand...

I thought that the eye did feel baggy at first. I was able to give the eye a tug and it stretched out a little and felt better. Should I keep working it, or does it look like I may have missed a step somewhere and need to restart?
 
Jehinten said:
I thought that the eye did feel baggy at first. I was able to give the eye a tug and it stretched out a little and felt better. Should I keep working it, or does it look like I may have missed a step somewhere and need to restart?
Click to expand...

I don't think it warrants a restart. Nice job!


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739
 
Justin,

Nice job. Isn't it fun to make your own?

The sling on my port-a-wrap that I showed you Saturday was spliced by me. But we were out of time to discuss such details. Another visit!

--andrew
 
Thanks Reed, that's how I've done it but someone on another thread thought the splice should be loaded to the working load limit of the rope before stitching or whipping.
 
Listen to reed, as long as all the marks line up and their is no baggyness it will be fine, if it's baggy loading the splice will help it slip and can equalize the cove/core or in the other thread the brummel and bury. If you sew it up with baggyness or bunched up brummels you will load the stitching as the splice wants to seat, therefore will distort the lock stitching or whipping in a unfavorable way... but take it or leave it. If you don't believe me just try it out.
 
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