Skinny Ones

Do you mean the tops or the logs? I was getting the logs to land more or less flat so they didn't run into the house or anything else, or get stuck in the ground. There's a few buildings that can't be seen in the video.
 
The log lengths.
A humboldt works good for that Gord.
Those are almost within range of rigging with a GRCS, what do you estimate the weight of a single tree like that, I'm guessing maybe 3k lbs. ?
Were they using the wood?
 
How did you secure the camera?


<font color="green">The TreeHouse</font>
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Nice vid gord, that log at 7.00mins looks like it could have easily taken a bounce into the house?
 
Hey MB the camera is one of these , it's made to fit on your wrist so it's easy to attach it to a small limb.

you're right grover that first log could have tagged the house if it had landed on end...

kevin the notch doesn't make much of a difference as to how much the log rotates in the air. I usually do use a really narrow notch on this sort of thing, humboldt or conventional it doesn't matter.
 
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I'm glad you had an near-by tree to tie into Gord.

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Me too Reg...some of these firs get to be more or less unclimbable w/o a bigger one nearby to tie into.
 
A humboldt won't put as nearly much tumble on your wood as holding onto it and stalling the fall of the butt.
Be careful sweeping your arm with that chain.
 
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A humboldt won't put as nearly much tumble on your wood as holding onto it and stalling the fall of the butt.
Be careful sweeping your arm with that chain.

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I'd take your word for it but experience tells me the difference is moot.

:)
 
Wait what? I misread your last post. I often hold onto the butt a little to give the log more rotation if it needs it, to make a full rotation and land flat.




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Video one for me.
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What do you mean?
 
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give the log more rotation if it needs it, to make a full rotation and land flat

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That's what I thought you might me doing by grabbing the butt, forcing the tumble.
You have the height to do it there.
 
In thick stands of conifers, like that, you tie-into a dominate tree and then drop down and work a half dozen, or more, lesser ones. All from the same tie-in. Pretty much SOP in the Northwest. By adjusting the climbline, or extending the safety to lean off one side you can induce a favor or lean for the work to fall in your favor.

But when those pecker poles are bobbing around you got to be really careful tipping the logs.!!!! Because it don't take much to flip'em the wrong way.

Nice vid, Gord. I'd like to see how the resolution pans out on a big screen.
 
The type of notch is important but so is getting the hinge cut fast enough to have the bottom drop off once the top is in favor.
I've made the mistake of thinking the hinge would break early on a top with a humboldt only to have it hold on too long.
Now I keep cutting till it's cut through, if you don't it holds to the tree, pivots over and lands on it's end.
 
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In thick stands of conifers, like that, you tie-into a dominate tree and then drop down and work a half dozen, or more, lesser ones. All from the same tie-in. Pretty much SOP in the Northwest. By adjusting the climbline, or extending the safety to lean off one side you can induce a favor or lean for the work to fall in your favor.

But when those pecker poles are bobbing around you got to be really careful tipping the logs.!!!! Because it don't take much to flip'em the wrong way.

Nice vid, Gord. I'd like to see how the resolution pans out on a big screen.

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Thanks Jerry, for the price of the little camera it does pretty well. It does really poorly if there's too much contrast in the scene though, it underexposes way too much.
 
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The type of notch is important but so is getting the hinge cut fast enough to have the bottom drop off once the top is in favor.
I've made the mistake of thinking the hinge would break early on a top with a humboldt only to have it hold on too long.
Now I keep cutting till it's cut through, if you don't it holds to the tree, pivots over and lands on it's end.

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If you mean that the hinge tears down the sides of the cut (the sapwood being much stringier than the heartwood usually) a better solution than cutting the hinge right off is to make small cuts through the sapwood and inch or two below the hinge, perpendicular to the hinge direction.
 
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